 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Replacing body cappings 110 Hard Top Job specification? |
 
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550   
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I'm just about to do this job on my 06 td5 110 csw. The capping on RHS has rusted so much that the paint has flaked off along about 4" of the capping. The rest is totally bubbled under the paint. LR said that it wasn't covered as the car hasn't hd it's annual corrosion inspection...
I plan on doing the job myself. the capping is about 150 quid plus VAT from dealer. I can get it sprayed in work for free. As far as I know, there's just a length of foam tape that seals the panel. I'm planning on undoing the roof and just raising it a few inches. Can't be bothered to lift the whole thing off. While the headlining's out, i'm gonna run some cables through, for LED interior lighting, and I'm going to put some 1" thick soundproofing foam onto the roof too, before I refit the lining. I'm guessing it'll take a day for me, with the inevitable faffing about... |
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30th Jan 2011 9:21pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1579 
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Think you might have to fit the top more than a few inches. You need to get your rivet gun in. The foam is quite cheap to buy and sticks on.
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30th Jan 2011 10:25pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1776  
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I think I'd totally seal the cappings on afterwards, traditionally people would have used a mastic type sealer, nowadays I'd use a polyurethane sealer adhesive with the proper primer, once they are together, the joint is filled, no water / salt (electrolyte) can get in and they will be together for eternity - could be a pain if you ever need to change a panel though.
On my 2008 CSW I've sprayed up the joint with either thinned Dinitrol, or an aerosol of white spray grease, then wiped off the runs!  |
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30th Jan 2011 10:57pm |
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550
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You mean once the cappings are on, go at them from the underside of the capping on the outside, with black mastic o something, just to try and fend off the water? what brand name polyurethane sealers are there and how are they applied? spray on, or with a gun ( like silicon sealant?) Only one capping has gone, but I'm tempted to drill the good one off too, give the bodywork and capping a good clean, and seal that side up too. I might as well do it now, before my roll cage goes on - it'll be a nightmare afterwards... |
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31st Jan 2011 12:01am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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I know your not going to use domestic sealers but a word of caution some have used them in the past with disastrous results as some contain acid to prevent mould growing
As well as a foam or rubber strip, and if you are doing the end caps where the lights are it is advisable to use a strong plastic membrane (from a builders merchant for instance!) cut into shape as its the only way to put in a permanent barrier between the two metals. Sealant on its own will deteriorate eventually. Also make sure you use rivets that are 100% aluminium - some are not and you know what will happen 
New galv cappings, sealant, membrane, foam/rubber and sealant again would sort the problem completely  |
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31st Jan 2011 8:21am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1776
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You'd have to take the cappings off, totally clean the undersides or replace as required, clean the body, apply the proper and correct primer, then loads of polyurethane sealer, rivet the cappings back on and clean up the resulting mess with open cell foam and white spirit.
When I worked in the coachbuilding industry, we used Sikaflex plus their primers etc - is a version of, and looks like the stuff modern windscreens are bonded in with. Best of luck. |
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31st Jan 2011 6:51pm |
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550
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Something like this? http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/marine-seal...9189.bhtml |
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31st Jan 2011 7:21pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1776
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Thats a useful site, decent prices as well.
http://www.sika.com.au/cmc/Datasheets/tds/...de_tds.pdf Found this pdf for the cleaners / primers. |
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31st Jan 2011 8:29pm |
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550
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I'm being a biff!
Tell me which primers / sealers I need to buy! |
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31st Jan 2011 10:37pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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You slide the roof from one one side to the other of course on your wood that spans the tub to allow to rivet the cappings down and drill them out in the first place - no need to raise much just wood height. A quicker method of getting rivetts out is to slice off the rivet top with an old chisel, takes 5 mins then Ordinary planks would do, or a bit of 2x2 to span the tub.
There are many appropriate sealants to answer your question Mike_B, I would use Dinitrol or marine sealant as suggested before as I have some knocking about. Any wax product would not very good as it dries and cracks eventually. Have fun with it |
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2nd Feb 2011 3:29pm |
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550
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Thanks Zagato, I'll let you know how I get on when my capping arrives and I get it painted!
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2nd Feb 2011 3:47pm |
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| Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
It has always been my belief the dissimilar metals (cappings & body panels) must be kept apart with something. The problems with the panels touching are twofold. Vibration/movement quickly wears away any thin coats of primer applied prior to assembly then electrolysis starts. It is just a question of deciding the best method. I have used Sikaflex on boats and it is a superb product but must be considered permanent, I doubt whether you would be able to remove the capping in the future without destoying the flimsy body panel. I have just looked on ebay. Searched for double sided foam tape 2mm and these tapes might be useful. I would suggest the tape could be stuck to the cappings and the side that will come into contact with the body panel could be smeared with grease/waxoyl to stop it making a permanent bond and will assist with alignment.
Another problem with sealant is it does not stop the panels contacting the cappings so might not be effective in stopping electrolysis. It does not form a uniform barrier. Defender no 9 |
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4th Feb 2011 7:32am |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5034 
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On removing rivets - there are some proper drills, a friend had one and i used it a few times when helping him out...i vowed i would get one, but never have. They are useful tools to have.
My comment - from doing similar things, you want to form a barrier. I have had success (measured at 10yrs) in just using underbody seal (as i had it) and/or automotive sealant and/or roofing sealant. The underbody seal (wax base) is more than just waxoyl and once you have sandwiched in place, my experience to date shows it retains the flexibility, doesnt dry out and provides a nice thick even layer (maybe because its sandwiched between the two sides). On the other hand - some (trade) roofers sealant is brilliant...i get one that can stick metal together, designed to be outside, lasts for years, thick!, etc etc Mike |
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4th Feb 2011 8:17am |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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Just reviving an old thread.
Are the body cappings on a Puma bonded on rather than just riveted on? If bonded are they a pig to remove? |
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17th Mar 2016 6:45pm |
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