Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Extended front seat travel in a 110 utility |
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Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 |
I know what you mean about the 'perched' feeling as I had it too for a start (I made 1 1/4" nylon spacers to raise mine up), but give it a week or two and you probably won't notice it any longer.
I'd stick with them and see how you get on. |
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5th Sep 2016 7:56pm |
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jeffersj Member Since: 23 Jan 2015 Location: Near Preston Posts: 431 |
Not sure if your 110 still has the bulkhead behind the seats but I have just fitted a bulkhead removal bar "U" shape and this allows greater movement. Jeff
Ex 1968 Series 2A Ex 90 TD5 Ex D3 Ex D4 |
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6th Sep 2016 7:52am |
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Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29 |
The Utility is a 5 seater so no bulkhead, just that irritating 1" lip across behind the seat rails.
I think I saw a thread about cutting this lip to allow the seat rails to pass through it. Has anyone got any information. |
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6th Sep 2016 2:13pm |
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Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29 |
So tonight I had a fiddle with the seats in my 110 today here is what I found.
I removed the seat risers and made a pair of 25 mm high spacers for the rear of the runners out of box section. I installed the seats with the standard spacers fitted at the front (these are about 5 mm thick) and the home made spacers at the rear. I did not install the factory spacers at the back since I found that they were not needed. I refitted the seats back in their normal location but with the rear of the seat lifted by around 20mm (thickness of home made spacers minus factory spacers) The moving part of the runners attached to the seat base can now pass over the rail at the back of the seat box and offer around 40mm more travel than before. This was so easy it beggers belief. Now I have a virtually standard seat position with more travel. No cutting required and even the standard seat bolts are long enough. I hope this is of some use to others. |
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6th Sep 2016 7:33pm |
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leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580 |
Have a look here
Brendan |
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6th Sep 2016 9:11pm |
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bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 |
I use those on mine, very good and don't lift the front by more than about 5mm
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6th Sep 2016 9:51pm |
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AJC Member Since: 30 Nov 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1359 |
I used the ones from 4x4 over lander, however like yourself, i felt perched at the rear and the front was too low, so i then spaced the front up another 15mm and i'm now happy, i did kind of forget about the change of seat position then. And now it's just right for me.
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7th Sep 2016 5:56am |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 |
Good call Curtis-bay, it's easy to just buy an off the shelf "fix" but like your post, with some thought you don't need to spend over £40 to make your seats move backwards enough. I started off by just fitting washers to the rear (did consider cutting the rib/fold )
Peoples thoughts, ideas and fixes make this forum great |
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7th Sep 2016 7:12am |
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strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1380 |
I got mine from Brendan too - they really help my knees which would get really painful on long runs. You soon get used to the slightly different seating position. Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond.....
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7th Sep 2016 6:50pm |
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VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 |
I wonder if someone tried this, I am really curious to know... Some time ago I installed MUDSTUFF Seat Rail Extenders, but I find they rise the seat too much. I am 6' 1" and with these rail extenders I feel my view out of the windows (especially side window) is restricted and I have to bend over to for a clear view out of the side window... I have a Station Wagon, so no bulkhead, and wonder if one can cut the lip down at the two places were the seat rails are. Would this have negative effects, e.g. compromising strength etc. ? I looked at the rails from 4x4 Overlander, but these also raise the rear of the seat by 30 mm, and thus impair visibility ... Opinions please! Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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7th Jan 2017 11:54am |
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boode Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: Devon Posts: 428 |
I bought the Mud Rails but also found them too high
I reduced their height to about 5mm at the front and 15 at the back(to allow for the seat bolts) I also cut the lip down to allow the rails to sit lower This worked well for me and the landy has not split in half yet due to weakening this joint Front of rails Click image to enlarge Rear protruding through the lip of the bodywork Click image to enlarge |
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7th Jan 2017 2:12pm |
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VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 |
Thanks!
I'll have a go then when the snow and glazed frost here have gone. Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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7th Jan 2017 3:31pm |
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jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8006 |
i found by raising the rear to clear the lip (usually the rear is raised more than the front) that the angle of the base changed to the extent that i found it uncomfortable with std LR seats on long trips. something i had never felt before (believe it or not...) Osnabruck to Devon was a regular at one point too!
anyone else ? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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7th Jan 2017 9:42pm |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 |
I haven't found the new angle a problem.
I went the much lower-tech route of just fitting spacers under the rear fixings on the seat slides. You don't actually need to move the slides back because there's plenty of travel left in them when they hit the lip on the box. |
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8th Jan 2017 4:41pm |
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