 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Gear issue - please advise |
 
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826   
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Possibly the clutch is not fully disengaging and dragging a bit..?
Cheers Simon |
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14th Aug 2016 7:56am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Yeah how many miles since clutch fluid looked at?
Air in the lines caused similar for me, but it was more consistent so... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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14th Aug 2016 8:15am |
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| TVM Member Since: 18 May 2016 Location: Dubai Posts: 35 
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Clutch is engaging properly when the engine is not running and no whining noise. Didn't try again. Did the 100k service two months back and apparently all fluids were checked
Cheers TVM |
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14th Aug 2016 8:22am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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engine running in neutral press the clutch fully to the floor, now try to select any gear if it selects without grinding its unlikely to be the clutch dragging, now when in any gear with the engine idling slowly release the clutch and note the point at which it starts to bite, if it is very close to the floor it might need topping up, bleeding or adjusting. if its further up issue unlikely to be the clutch. however people have all sorts of funny behaviour when the clutch spring break up but that normally results in rattling clutch syndrome DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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14th Aug 2016 8:50am |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
Got the same symptom at 80.000km getting worse quickly. It turned out that one of the springs of the clutch was distorted (90°) and therefore did not allow clutch to separate completely. |
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14th Aug 2016 2:27pm |
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| TVM Member Since: 18 May 2016 Location: Dubai Posts: 35
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Continuing gear issue
Didn't get a chance to fix the issue as I was travelling. Took the truck to LR service guys and they think it is the clutch plate. They are not sure though. Spoke to another LR specialist garage and they think its the clutch master. Totally confused What does it take: - to change the clutch plate and what all is involved - to change the clutch master Need some advise as to how to proceed. At times the clutch gives bit of resistance. If I Switch off and start again, it engages. No loss of power and no slipping. It engages well while the engine is switched off. Looking for some direction cheers TVM |
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24th Aug 2016 5:30am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I've done clutch master.
Bit of a faff about getting the clutch box out, you have to work from inside and above at the same time, I removed the coolant expansion tank also just to get some room. Then swap out is easy, couple of brass washers, reprime and reverse bleed... All google-able and easy enough for someone with patience, foresight and a reasonable tool kit. Don't over torque the clutch sensor banjo bolt like I did! Vehicle was off the road over xmas because of that sucker 
Some people report success doing it without removing the box but then getting the piston/rod bolts off is a pain in the rear... Clutch itself is whole other kettle of fish - I didn't go there myself. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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24th Aug 2016 8:44am |
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| Hal Member Since: 04 Jun 2014 Location: Bedford Posts: 91
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I've just done my clutch. Surprisingly doable, but it did take four weekends. I used the workshop manual helpfully and kindly provided by one of the members of this forum (just do a search on puma workshop manual). I used a floor transmission jack (about £80). Split the transfer box off first and took that out, then did the gearbox to get at the clutch. It's a good idea to have someone to help (my son was excellent) as you need to pull both boxes backwards carefully to make sure you don't damage the seal. I took slightly more of the transmission tunnel out than the manual says but it's only a bit of moulded plastic so very easy to do and makes the job a lot easier. Getting the three top bolts out of the bell housing needs a few extension bars and is much easier if you get someone working from inside the vehicle whilst you guide from underneath. The hardest part is taking out the exhaust from the cat down - it's like one of those Chinese nail puzzles. Getting it back in is even harder. Take the heat shields off- the manual neglects to say this.
Anyway. As long as you've got some reasonable tools and a lot of patience and you follow the workshop manual it's all doable. Mine went all back together and it works fine, if I can do it anyone can. |
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24th Aug 2016 4:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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If you're just changing the clutch you don't need to remove the gearbox from under the vehicle, and so you don't (on a 110 at any rate) need to disturb the exhaust at all.
If you remove the transfer box, then unbolt the gearbox and roll it back as far as you can on a transmission jack, there is enough room to change the clutch. It is only if you want to drop the gearbox down and out that the exhaust is actually in the way. Also when you do the job take the opportunity to inspect and lubricate the infamous output adaptor shaft in the gearbox extension housing. It would be the height of folloy not to, since it is easily accessible once the t-box is removed. Changing the clutch is a job which can be achieved easily in a day, if you know what you're doing. Be careful though when working underneath, since the gearbox and transfer box are each easily heavy enough to inflict a life-changing injury if you are underneath them and they fall on you. |
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24th Aug 2016 4:16pm |
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| Hal Member Since: 04 Jun 2014 Location: Bedford Posts: 91
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Good points from black wolf - this is the first time I've done a clutch so I just followed the manual. Thinking back he's right you can probably roll the gearbox back enough. I also changed the slave cylinder while in there and did as black wolf said and lubricated the mt82 shaft - mine was dry and had a bit of red rust. Splines looked reasonably OK though after cleaning them.
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24th Aug 2016 6:21pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
Any new information on that issue? |
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2nd Nov 2016 4:56am |
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| TVM Member Since: 18 May 2016 Location: Dubai Posts: 35
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Had to change both clutch master and clutch plate. Apparently one of the springs on clutch plate had come loose and had to change it
Regards TVM |
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2nd Nov 2016 6:14am |
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