Home > Puma (Tdci) > Replacing body cappings 110 Hard Top Job specification? |
|
|
o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 538 |
See here (courtesy of Google translate, orginal thread in French here) to give you an idea of the work to be done.
This is in French, but even tho you may not read French the pics are quite self explanatory imho... Oh, and he did not just stop at the body cappings, he did the same with the entire chassis as well (and it was new at the time!), see this thread as well (original text in French here) A-ma-zing! [/url] |
||
28th Jan 2011 7:41am |
|
Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
Thanks
The one photo missing is the one that would confirm what I believe to be the case that the body cappings are attached to the vehicle before painting. Therefore no paint under the cappings. Additionally it does not make clear if any gaskets were fitted during the rebuild. Currently a white salt like deposit is appearing on my vehicle from between the cappings & the aluminium body panels. I understand this is a product of electrolysis and it will be the aluminium losing out in a fight between the aly & the steel. This is why I think the aluminium needs careful attention while the cappings are away at the galvanisers. Defender no 9 |
||
28th Jan 2011 8:11am |
|
o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 538 |
It's here, and indeed no paint under the cappings... |
||
28th Jan 2011 8:22am |
|
o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 538 |
However, I think there must be primer coating, I can't believe the alloy is left bare under the cappings... It's probably just the finish painting which is done last, so not visible under the cappings.
Maybe someone can confirm this? |
||
28th Jan 2011 8:44am |
|
Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
I would say a large chunk of the £2k would be for the spraying up of it all and blending it in. If you are going for the Series look and just having it galvanised you would save a load of money...... and it would ba an awesome idea to paint under the capping before re-fitting
Good old Land Rover and it's half a job Glyn |
||
28th Jan 2011 9:07am |
|
Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012 |
Great link Really nice to see it being done and what it looks like after. I would leave them galv and unpainted also if I had a silver body. Certainly worth doing if you intend to keep the vehicle a long time. Real shame he appears to have put the roof rack on without any protection under the clamps, I put protection under my clamps but it still corroded through the paper thin paint
There was an article in LROI a while ago about a guy that bought a brand new Defender and he and his mate stripped it right down and rebuilt it with galv, anti rust treatment etc etc and resprayed the whole thing properly afterwards - it was a fine job and will stay in good nick for decades. |
||
28th Jan 2011 10:26am |
|
Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012 |
Can also be done by placing wood across the rear tub so you don't have to lift the whole roof away, just rest the roof on them and move them around and lift when needed. Easy to do yourself and would save you £1950
|
||
28th Jan 2011 12:01pm |
|
Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
Thanks for replies,
I missed the photo with the original cappings stripped off. I have read other articles on the subject and understand the body panels do have a thin coat of primer before assembly. Problem is as I understand this is damaged as soon as the cappings are attached. However I do the job I will be leaving the cappings galvanised (unpainted). I guess a fair proportion of the £2K was painting the body panels properly prior to refitting the newly galvanised cappings. I have decided the only way forward is to send my cappings for galvanising. 3 reasons I know they fit. Cheaper (probably) Galvanised ones are NOT available off the shelf. Defender no 9 |
||
29th Jan 2011 6:34am |
|
Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
I am aware this job would be simple for many of you but this depends on circumstances.
I do not have a building to do the work in. I am a little old feller working on my own. I do not have some of the equipment required. I do not have alternative transport to use while the Defender is in bits. I live 13 miles from the nearest shop if I need a part, nut & bolt, sealant etc If only the vehicle had been built properly in the first place. It would have been SOOOOOOOOO easy. Defender no 9 |
||
29th Jan 2011 6:41am |
|
Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012 |
Shame your not closer I could do it for you to help you out. I know a few people oop north I could ask if you like. If I was charging I wouldn't ask more than £500 including old ones galvanised, but would be happy to do it free. It's only 8 hours work tops without a respray.
Your garage labour rates are cheaper up there also than down here, we are £55 an hour for independents and £80 + for dealers., To put the job into perspective, there are two companies up north that will swap your old chassis for a new one and the labour rate is 2.5K That's whole body off, engine/gearbox out, suspension axles off etc etc etc and put it all back in into the new chassis, bleed brakes, set it all up. There is a few days work there. Let me know if you would like me to ask around. How about some of the members meeting up at your place one day to whip the roof and cappings off, we do this regularly on another forum, it's amazing how much work you can get out of people with a few bacon butties and a cup of tea. It's a fun day and saves lining the pocket of some stealer. Chris |
||
29th Jan 2011 7:28am |
|
Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012 |
Hey lets not be defeatist I and many others are building whole vehicles outside. I know many little old fellas that do it as a hobby in retirement and produce some excellent work. You only need spanners, screwdrivers, drill, rivet gun etc nothing specialist. All sorts of ways to lift the roof a couple of inches with a bit of ingenuity. You should have all the nuts and bolts from when you dismantle, but however well you plan a job there are times when you run out of something and a trip to the shops is in order. Mail order companies like Frosts.co.uk also come in handy for those hard to come by bits. Sealant, rubber strip and rivets will be all you should need. I'm not being critical just pointing out they they are not barriers but appreciate many would rather get someone in to do the job As said if you were close I would pop over and do it for you..... |
||
29th Jan 2011 7:47am |
|
willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789 |
Possibly use my Barn just need bribing with Beer, Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper |
||
29th Jan 2011 8:01am |
|
Defenderno9 Member Since: 24 Jan 2011 Location: Whitby Posts: 17 |
Thanks Zagato & willy eckerslike,
It is good to know there are still some genuinely helpful folk around. I sounded my wife out this morning about potentially arranging a communal gathering of Defender owners willing to help out one of their kind but as I expected she is not keen. Pity, could have made a weekend of it. I have a small paddock/orchard big enough to park half a dozen Landys & pitch a few tents (in the summer). Pub about 4 fields away. In fact I could see it would become an annual event. By next year god knows what else might need replacing on my vehicle! Might need a new chassis by then! Zagato is quite correct. I will only need simple tools & good planning & will be able to pull this job off with a bit of ingenuity. I still feel it is important to give the bare body panels a good coat of paint while I have the opportunity. Defender no 9 |
||
30th Jan 2011 7:35am |
|
jerseyman Member Since: 21 Jul 2009 Location: Jersey Posts: 279 |
I've been following this thread with some interest, As i is something to add to the list when (or if) I get my 01 TD5 refurbed.
i would have thought that one of the big issues in the time involved is getting all the trim off, sourcing and repairing all the broken trim fittings, and then getting them all back so they still look "factory". This is based on removing my front door cards. One of them took me two hours to get off, and I probably spent 2 hours on each trim trying to fathom out how to repair the mounts for the "fir-trees that was not a complete bodge. I have to say that the French chap made it look easy Brian |
||
30th Jan 2011 12:37pm |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis