 | Home > Technical > Battery not charging, alternator? P060-49(2F) fault - help! |
 
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324  
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Just looking at one of the worst case scenarios here... What is the difference between the two alternator parts listed for the TDCi:
LR008856 YLE500310 ? According to suppliers they are not superseded version of each other - also (inconclusive) net discussion indicates one might be 85A and the other 150A in terms of output current, 150A being for higher spec cars with heated seats and the rest. Cant hurt to get 150 for my mechanical everything jobby ? (manual windows, no central etc.) Prices are all over the place but ball park is £300ish. A lot cheaper if you go refurbished on ebay (stupid option right?) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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30th Jul 2016 11:05pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
LR008856 exchange
YLE500310 new alt |
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31st Jul 2016 5:51am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Feel like I'm talking to myself, but that's what you get at GMT+12
Ok, so I had half an hour to play with it. Took off fan cover but I see that the alternator is still nicely buried behind a whatzit pipe and hoohah receiver thingo, so not much diagnosis going on there. Should note that yes, the belt is nice and tight (and only 2months old). Got a DMM and probed the battery directly (instead of via GAP tool) and read 12.3V, which is nice - but odd in that I expected 11.6V, as per reading when driving last. Anyhoo, turned it over, started nicely - probed battery again and got the magic 14.4V. You might think I went 'woohoo!', but no, I've just got myself an intermittent fault - the worst kind  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...Last edited by agentmulder on 31st Jul 2016 5:57am. Edited 1 time in total |
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31st Jul 2016 5:51am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Ah, ok. Excuse the ignorance, but what does 'exchange' mean? I give the old one back and get a reconditioned one back or similar ? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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31st Jul 2016 5:54am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
good morning
with engine running alternator output voltage from alt between 13 -14 volts witch drops as battery volts increases to start with check wiring to and from alternator the alt needs 12volts on engine starting at D+ to start charging Last edited by dorsetsmith on 31st Jul 2016 6:18am. Edited 1 time in total |
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31st Jul 2016 6:07am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
yes
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31st Jul 2016 6:08am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I'd love to, but it's buried in there. The alternator end, does it need removal? Or how to access the its terminals? I figure maybe remove fan? Jack up via chassis to raise the vehicle away from the axle? Belt off? I cant see where they terminate on the unit yet... And where does it connect to the battery? Via a relay/contactor? Somewhere near the battery or on the engine side of the firewall? What's involved in a recondition? Replace some brushes, bearing maybe and clean it? Thanks for the advice by the way.  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...Last edited by agentmulder on 31st Jul 2016 8:24am. Edited 1 time in total |
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31st Jul 2016 6:20am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge look like ford use Bosch alternator see link below regulator and brush for your alternator http://www.lima-shop.de/en/product_info.ph...-2287.html |
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31st Jul 2016 6:40am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Ahhhh, cool - much cheaper, assuming that is the fault.
The brushes are on the bottom of that image? And the long straight section is the springs? Click image to enlarge Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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31st Jul 2016 7:25am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372  
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It's worth checking that the harness from the alternator to the back of the engine is all ok, it is a very coomon occurrence on the Puma for if to chafe anywhere it touches the engine causing broken wires, shorts, and potentially spontaneous combustion.
The only way to do this is to cut most of the cable ties and visually inspect the harness bundle. ALL the engine wiring runs in this harness and damage can cause a whole multitude of seemingly non-related faults. A Tdci alternator should be good for 250k+ miles. |
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31st Jul 2016 7:41am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Sheesh, sounds painful. What parts need to be removed/fiddled out of the way to pull the harness out enough to check it all without damaging it in the process?
Can I expect the alarm to go off at some stage? 
Any connections I shouldn't remove? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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31st Jul 2016 8:22am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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So the 11.6V is the voltage over the battery once it's in series with a running defender's load, its own internal resistance and sans alternator? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
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31st Jul 2016 9:28am |
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| patclan Member Since: 13 May 2010 Location: Gold Coast Posts: 20  
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Did you ever get to the bottom of this?
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5th Aug 2022 12:06pm |
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