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dippyhull



Member Since: 20 Jun 2012
Location: East Yorks, UK
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Heater Fan and radio sometimes dont start...
Bit of an odd one - hence I ask first before I go tear it apart...

Sometimes (often) on starting the heater fan and radio just don't work - on turning ignition off and on again I am pretty sure it has always started working!

So bad connection, sticking relay, dodgy fuse???? or is the a computer involved ? I'm not completely sure when it started - I have had someone mess with the system to stop it pumping the horn when locked with the doors open although can't see how that ought to be involved!


Thanks in advance!
Dave MY12 110 XS Ute, silver & grey now...
'75 109 fire engine (nearly ready to roll)...
Post #549970 20th Jul 2016 12:46pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Both of these (blower motor & radio) are fed from the same contact on the ignition barrel (Aux).


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


The fact that you stop and start and it springs back to life most likely indicates an issue with the ignition barrel.

Next time it happens, if you check the power in your cigar lighter socket and it is not there, I would definitely look at the ignition barrel as this is fed from the same AUX contact (measure the voltage!)

Good luck. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #550101 20th Jul 2016 9:19pm
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dippyhull



Member Since: 20 Jun 2012
Location: East Yorks, UK
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
hasn't happened since I wrote it - must have scared it off - not sure how I missed the fact that they are all on the aux contact - so massive ta for that although I don't fancy a new barrel Smile But let me go look see! MY12 110 XS Ute, silver & grey now...
'75 109 fire engine (nearly ready to roll)...
Post #550229 21st Jul 2016 2:23pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6611

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
You wouldn't need a new barrel, just the switch from the back - LR039638 aka PRC8230

Genuine is £55, Lucas OEM about £24  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #550234 21st Jul 2016 2:39pm
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dippyhull



Member Since: 20 Jun 2012
Location: East Yorks, UK
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
dippyhull wrote:
hasn't happened since I wrote it - must have scared it off - not sure how I missed the fact that they are all on the aux contact - so massive ta for that although I don't fancy a new barrel Smile But let me go look see!


Ah well that sounds better ... MY12 110 XS Ute, silver & grey now...
'75 109 fire engine (nearly ready to roll)...
Post #550256 21st Jul 2016 4:28pm
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110dc



Member Since: 12 Jan 2014
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 9

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Stornoway Grey
I have exactly the same problem with key in ignition point 1 all fine move key to 2 start engine and I lose radio, fans and cigarette lighter until I turn engine off. Is this a straight forward repair?
Post #550655 23rd Jul 2016 5:02pm
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dippyhull



Member Since: 20 Jun 2012
Location: East Yorks, UK
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Will tell you when I try it - I don't really have time just now and am off away for a fortnight - so I am going for purchasing the part and taking it with me in case of the fault getting somewhat worse...

I also have the challenge of changing it - as clearly safer with the battery disconnected - but I found last time I did that that the alarm went off and would not stop until I reconnected and started the car... Shame (for the neighbours) that I tried that at about midnight ! MY12 110 XS Ute, silver & grey now...
'75 109 fire engine (nearly ready to roll)...
Post #551053 25th Jul 2016 8:27am
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 740

Philippines 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
You just need to replace the starter switch.

While you have all the cover bits off, check the headlight switch when open to see if it heats up, it's one of the causes for the ignition switch to warp and wear. If the switch heats up, add a relay kit to keep it cool and you shouldn't need to replace it for a good while. Switching your lights to LED will help lessen the load too.
Post #551063 25th Jul 2016 8:46am
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