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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 750

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Gwyn Lewis Mud Flap extensions
Good evening all,

Has anyone used/fitted the Gwyn Lewis mudflap fill in/extension parts?
Not sure I wish to move the mounting of the existing flaps on my 110 but plugging the gaps to the rear crossmember and front outriggers does seem like a good practical idea.
I'm therefore after practical advice on whether they are easy to fit etc and whether they do the job properly or even alternatives if they exist and are prefered.

Phil 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #545777 3rd Jul 2016 8:55pm
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Thon



Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury Plain
Posts: 696

United Kingdom 
Being a lazy sod I paid someone to fit them for me. I think it took them 3 hours for the rear mudflaps, front of rear arch/body crossmember guards and rear of front arch kit.

Personally I think the flaps look better positioned now and they certainly fill the gaps. It all looks a bit neater now and I can easily remove the rear flaps if necessary.

If you actually use your Defender in the mud then you will know the joy of endless pressure washing to free the various knooks and crannies of corrosive nastiness, and hopefully this will at the very least minimise that joy. I had mine Dinitrol treated at the same time so i'm hoping that will make it even easier. Time will tell.
Post #545783 3rd Jul 2016 9:02pm
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Flyingfocrs



Member Since: 12 Jan 2015
Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire
Posts: 155

Scotland 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I fitted them a few months ago and they are so much better than the OEM option.
Just take your time and offer everything up first before drilling etc.
Post #545784 3rd Jul 2016 9:08pm
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 750

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
How much drilling and replacing of parts is necessary if doin the rear of the front arches and the rear of the rear arches? 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #545791 3rd Jul 2016 9:24pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
You can download the instructions on our website.

It's a time consuming job but not difficult
Post #545793 3rd Jul 2016 9:26pm
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 750

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Cheers Go Beyond,

Time consuming I can understand from reading the instructions but doable.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Please expect a PM when I sort funding. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #545802 3rd Jul 2016 9:40pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Thank you Bow down
Post #545804 3rd Jul 2016 9:41pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
I've fitted them. Bought direct from Gwyn Lewis but I've had stuff from FCX before and had good service.

The backs are a bit time consuming but look really good. I didn't completely follow the instructions because I found what I think is a better way of doing it. Looks like it should look - very neat.

The fronts are less pretty. You can fit the front mud shield without altering the stock mudflaps if you want to. I don't know why they don't come like that out of the factory but there you go. The mud flaps themselves look a bit odd to me. They just follow the line of the wheel arch "eyebrow" down, so it sort of looks continuous but doesn't look quite as "right" as the rear ones. Seems to work well though.

For some reason I bought a set of replacement front mudflaps, I'm not sure why I did that as I didn't need them.

Write-up here: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post545759.html#541866
The supplied instructions really aren't very clear at all but the job isn't hard. You need basic tools: drill with a set of assorted metal drill bits, spanners, knife, ruler, penetrating oil. The front mud flap bracket bolts were seized, it's an M8 bolt with the heat inside the front outrigger - 10mm head, 13mm nut. The combination spanner I was using was from a cheap set and when I put lots of torque on the nut, the bolt head rounded and just turned in the ring end. Put a 6 point socket on the head and managed with a lot of effort to get them out.
Post #545916 4th Jul 2016 11:37am
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
I've done the front ones on my 90. With rock sliders on it looks pretty OK but the mud flaps would be sticking out a bit weird if you didn't. One of those mods you just wonder why they didn't do from factory...


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #545927 4th Jul 2016 12:18pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
I put the ones on the back. Fills the hole between the mudflap and the upper wheelarch.

Spent ages in there first clearing all the crap out, and making sure everything was corrosion-free and dinitrolled.

About 3 hours work with all the prep work... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #545935 4th Jul 2016 12:43pm
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epictrail



Member Since: 20 Sep 2013
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 395

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
The front look much better if you cut the corner off as the photo shows and as suggested in the instructions.....


Click image to enlarge
Post #545939 4th Jul 2016 12:57pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Post #545942 4th Jul 2016 1:39pm
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
epictrail wrote:
The front look much better if you cut the corner off as the photo shows and as suggested in the instructions.....


You can't really see the corner unless you're looking so I'm not too pushed Smile
Post #545954 4th Jul 2016 3:14pm
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 750

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Decisions decisions Crying or Very sad

Do I do the front end or the back end first?

Not sure I can spare the wedge to do it all at once. Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #545957 4th Jul 2016 3:35pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7908

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Had the Gwyn Lewis fronts fitted a while ago, can't comment on fitting but they work really well, very pleased. Having the rears fitted in a couple of weeks as the only mud splatters I get now is on the rear side panel. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #545959 4th Jul 2016 3:35pm
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