 | Home > My Defender > CDN 038's Niagara Grey 110 Td5... ongoing upgrades |
 
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560   
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No problem, I'll take one later tonight!
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14th Jun 2016 2:04pm |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22 
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Right. Gotcha. It's a lot clearer now. Thanks for those Martin!
Removed the floor earlier.... what a bitch of a job! All screws and bolts were corroded to hell so drilled and cut them out but also discovered the floor panel was just dust under some of the bolts so that needs replacing too! And at over £100 for a replacement I think i will be making my own, possibly chequer plate. Again, cheers for the pics Martin. You da man! |
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14th Jun 2016 7:38pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560
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No problem, hope they help, but I'm not Martin!!
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14th Jun 2016 7:50pm |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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How did you seal the metal insert you made and the rivets holding the resting plate to the wheel arch? Thanks
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14th Jun 2016 8:37pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560
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The insert is sealed and strengthened by a product made by Wurth called Bond and Seal, extremely strong adhesive.
The rivets used are sealed rivets so don't allow water ingress. |
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14th Jun 2016 8:49pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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Don't forget that the original floor has a stiffener channel under it. If you make your own, be sure to use a heavier gauge aluminum. and/or add a stiffener.
I Rhino lined my original floor as it was corroding around the bolts, but cleaned up ok. Reason for rhino lining was to encapsulate the aluminum. If it isn't in direct contact with any other metals, it shouldn't corrode further. (Did the front floor panels too)  Click image to enlarge it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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14th Jun 2016 9:16pm |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22
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Alright, alright! Keep your hair on! The e-mail notifications i got all have the name 'Martin' below them....... Cheers for the pics anyway. |
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14th Jun 2016 9:23pm |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22
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Like the Rhino lining. Might see if my local coatings guys do it when i pick up the cross-member later this week.
Edit: They don't!  Last edited by FunkyMunky on 15th Jun 2016 8:43am. Edited 1 time in total |
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14th Jun 2016 9:26pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560
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Haha! Yes, that'll be the forum owners name:) |
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14th Jun 2016 9:41pm |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22
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Received all my panels yesterday and collected my blasted/powder-coated cross-member too so started in earnest today!
What a pain getting the old upstand off! Was double-skinned at each end and had steel domed rivets! 
The old cross-member also a nightmare as nuts/boltheads were rusted and rounded off. Wouldn't have been as much of a headache but didn't want to use a grinder in there, so had to drill heads off. 
On the plus side though, I did find one rusted through chassis web that needs a small repair. Not sure if it would have been an MOT fail but is an easy fix with the floor/upstand/cross-member out. Would have been a pig to do from underneath! Havent got a welding set so will take it to a mates garage on Monday. Note to self: But some gloves to save what little knuckle skin I have left! |
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18th Jun 2016 7:02pm |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22
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Right..... seems the rear seat brackets don't fit very easily at all. As CDN 038 said, to get his brackets in he needed to lift the tub slightly. Which is impossible unless your side frames are off (mine aren't).
It also looks as though the inner bolt lugs on the rear brackets need to be right where my Boge self-levelling unit top mount sits.
Boge unit is original though and badly corroded so might remove it and uprate suspension. Going to have to have a think about this one!  |
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19th Jun 2016 3:19pm |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22
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Almost there! Turned out to be a bigger job than first thought though!
Click image to enlarge An "ex" is a has-been. A "spurt" is a drip under pressure. So an "expert" is a has-been drip under pressure. |
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3rd Jul 2016 7:23am |
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| Justtellme Member Since: 23 Nov 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 310 
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How did you get the rear brackets in? Did you lift the tub and remove the side rails?
Patrick |
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3rd Jul 2016 10:14am |
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| FunkyMunky Member Since: 10 Jun 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 22
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Hi Patrick. I had a few issues with the seat modification, perhaps because mine is a '96 CSW and the floors are slightly different on the 2010 I got the seats and brackets from?
I had a little corrosion on the top-hats and did think of replacing the floor but decided to tackle that another time as it wasn't that bad. If I had gone that route then installing the rear brackets would have been a doddle! As the self-levelling Boge unit was in the way, I decided to remove it altogether (so far the suspension feels fine without it).
Then I cut the two rear brackets in half width ways, positioned and bolted up the front halves (seats and rear locking unit in place) and welded these to the chassis box section. I guess the chassis box section changed also over the years as there were 2 small webs either side which prevented me positioning the rear halves so off came the bolt tabs at a 45 deg angle (wish I had taken some pictures). Then I positioned these rears, bolted them up and also welded these to the box section. Although I had removed half of the bolt tabs, there was enough to get a good weld on the inner tabs and a small weld on the outer. Weld prep was a problem on the rear parts though as I couldn't get a grinder in, and had to use a bloody Dremmel!
A few small tacks to weld either side of each bracket halves back together and a liberal coating of waxoyl underseal, job done. 
Next time I am underneath I will take some pictures, although I am not sure what will be visible under all the underseal! I did lard it on!  An "ex" is a has-been. A "spurt" is a drip under pressure. So an "expert" is a has-been drip under pressure. |
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3rd Jul 2016 12:30pm |
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