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DC101



Member Since: 01 Jul 2012
Location: Pudsey, West Yorkshire
Posts: 260

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Waeco fridge and battery issue. Battery issue?
Dear All,

I would really appreciate help/a second opinion on this.

I run a Waeco cf 40 for camping trips. It works really when the td5 engine is running, but cuts out when I turn the engine off with the red error light comes on.

I understand from the manual that this is a safety cut out and indicates the battery voltage falling below one of the pre-determined voltage thresholds (high, medium, low) to protect the battery.

Now, I've just checked the voltage across the aux. socket in the rear and it registered as 12.4 (engine off and car hasn't run today). When I turned the fridge on, the voltage dropped straight away to around 11.7v and fridge cut out.

Can I determine this as a battery issue? I would particularly like to know, as I have just fitted an odyssey PC2150 perhaps naively bought on eBay. My old numax xv31 did exactly the same thing.

I know ideally I should fit a split charge, but for now just want a working fridge for the weekend. I really hoped that my 100ah battery could happily run the fridge for 36 hours without starting the car. Plus, I can't stand warm beer.!

Advice as usual welcomed.

Cheers,

Robin
Post #539704 12th Jun 2016 7:21pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
That sounds like voltage drop along the cable to the fridge. If that is the case you'd need a shorter cable run, heavier cable or both. You could alter the voltage cut out but it might then miss the battery actually getting low.

Running a fridge for 36 hours... maybe. You've got a lot more usable capacity with a 100Ah Odyssey than you have with most other 100Ah batteries but I'd be wary. My National Luna brochure (cheaper than the real thing Big Cry ) reckons about 1A average for a 40l fridge set at 31°C below ambient. National Luna are supposed to be pretty good as far as fridges go, so if you budget for 40Ah out of your 100Ah. With any battery other than an Odyssey I'd say no, with an Odyssey I'd say maybe. The more beer you put in and take out the less likely you are to be able to start your car the next day Laughing

12 hours, no problem. 36... hmm.
Post #539737 12th Jun 2016 8:46pm
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Wild Card 90



Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Gerlingen
Posts: 1060

England 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Iīve had the same issue with 35L Waeco. It is indeed both the dimensions of the cable and the quality of the connectors that make the difference. 1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW,
2012 2.2 90 SW,
2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma
Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs,
Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons
Post #539761 13th Jun 2016 4:04am
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DC101



Member Since: 01 Jul 2012
Location: Pudsey, West Yorkshire
Posts: 260

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Cupboard/Wild Card 90,

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
I'll upgrade the wiring and take a more direct route from the main battery; the existing wiring must go 'round the houses' some, as I think the auxiliary power cable to the rear has its fuse under the drivers seat?

I was hoping that 36 hours wouldn't be a problem, with the manual stating that current draw is 0.68 amps Ah/h at 20 degrees ambient? But absolutely good point; I'll monitor it - I'm not remote camping and will have other vehicles around, plus I pre-chill the fridge on the mains. And I guess I can always run the engine.

Thanks again
Post #539794 13th Jun 2016 9:51am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2250

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
In my experience, running a cf40 like you, 36 hours is about tops for reliable refrigeration, particularly if it's hot and the fridge is sitting in the back of your Land rover.
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #539803 13th Jun 2016 10:07am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8099

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
i have run an engel 40L for just over 48hrs without starting engine off a numa 27CXF split charge. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #539829 13th Jun 2016 11:32am
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DC101



Member Since: 01 Jul 2012
Location: Pudsey, West Yorkshire
Posts: 260

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Thanks All.

My fridge is also well insulated with a jacket, so optimistic as long as I can sort out my voltage issues'
Post #539938 13th Jun 2016 8:30pm
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1630

United Kingdom 
simple things like a full fridge and wooly jacket on it plus plenty of ventilation around it all make its life easier

inside a landy with the windows up its surprising how much heat it generates overnight in use.

we ran ours at the big outdoor event for 4 days with a fair amount of use inc beer refills etc on a leisure battery and the 2nd fridge off a red top optima without any issue.

we tried to cheaper two different brands Ģ30-50 solar panels which put enough power in to keep them both working fine.

so if you only want to run 1 battery i would use cheap solar panel to charge it up during the day other wise a split charge and 3nd battery that way you can guarantee the vehicle will start
Post #539944 13th Jun 2016 8:45pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I would agree with everyone here, most likely an undersized cable. However it is worth checking the voltage at the battery of the Defender when you turn the fridge on to eliminate the possibility of it being the battery. Its a quick check to do before installing a heavier gauge cable. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #539966 13th Jun 2016 11:44pm
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