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Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
what bolts should i use to refurbish footwells?
I am going to replace all the bolts in the front footwells as they are all rusting.

What is best replacement and is there a kit available that will do the whole lot. Should I go stainless or standard / zinc?


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


thanks for advice
Post #539505 11th Jun 2016 11:17pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
Stainless without doubt.

There are various kits but I don't think anyone does everything for the floor and bulkhead area.

Self tappers for floor plates.
M10 I think for floor to seat box
M8 for various bolts around footwells. Be aware that these will be rusty as hell on the other side probably. The bulkhead to chassis bracket ones etc. To do those ones inside your foot wells may well require removing the wings and inner wings to get access and rebuild unless your lucky.

My guess by the pics is that the bottoms of your bulkhead needs some repairs as it's obviously rusting along the bottom edge where it meets the floor.

Rebuild ahoy lol.
Post #539525 12th Jun 2016 7:20am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
Entreq used to do a kit for waterproofing the floor pan.

This included some closed cell compression tape. It might be worthwhile considering getting some closed cell compression tape for your refurbishment.


Brendan

Edited to make it clearer that I was suggesting use of closed cell compression tape was a good idea rather then a source of stainless fixings.


Last edited by leeds on 12th Jun 2016 8:42am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #539536 12th Jun 2016 7:44am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2666

Scotland 
Or, rather than buying some posh bolts from Europe... just go to your local fixings place and get what you need for pennies.

Self tappers for the floor screws that go into the plastic inserts.
M8 bolts/nuts for the floor bolts and the ones into the bulkhead bracket.

All the part numbers are in the books, which will usually give you the sizes if you Google them. #14 rings a bell for the screws, but don't hold me to that. Bolts are just standard M8 of appropriate length.

I used stainless Torx-head self tappers for the floor screws, but normal nuts and bolts for the rest. Reason being that it's quick and easy to deal with a rusty M8 nut/bolt but rusty flat-head self tappers can often require drilling/grinding off if it's too far gone.

As for the seals, normal foam sealing tape will do it. Or jut buy the LR part.
Post #539549 12th Jun 2016 8:26am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
YRM metal solutions do kits for this

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epage...iewProduct 2002 110 td5
Post #539569 12th Jun 2016 10:33am
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Retroanaconda wrote:
Or, rather than buying some posh bolts from Europe... just go to your local fixings place and get what you need for pennies.

Self tappers for the floor screws that go into the plastic inserts.
M8 bolts/nuts for the floor bolts and the ones into the bulkhead bracket.

All the part numbers are in the books, which will usually give you the sizes if you Google them. #14 rings a bell for the screws, but don't hold me to that. Bolts are just standard M8 of appropriate length.

I used stainless Torx-head self tappers for the floor screws, but normal nuts and bolts for the rest. Reason being that it's quick and easy to deal with a rusty M8 nut/bolt but rusty flat-head self tappers can often require drilling/grinding off if it's too far gone.

As for the seals, normal foam sealing tape will do it. Or jut buy the LR part.


I agree with the buy British theme Retro as some of the LR stuff from europe makes your eyes water price wise and i personally would only consider buying if the product could not be found elswhere!and even then i would probably wake up with cold sweats. If others havn't got a local "nuts guy" i would look on this very good site for your part size ect:
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams...ates_52666

Then for the nuts ect the internet is your friend i use this site:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Falcon-Workshop-Supplies
allways had good service from falcon but there are many others on the web!


If your wanting bespoke parts and lots of SS try here:

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/

Lots of great products on YRM including ss/ali floorplan bits...beware I think they make a lot of profits on their delivery costs


Retro by normal tape do you mean the houshold draft excluder stuff .....what is LR compression foam tape exactly?
Post #539582 12th Jun 2016 11:27am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2666

Scotland 
Any only foam sealing tape will do. Something like this for example:

https://www.tape2go.com/catalog/product/vi...-foam-tape
Post #539627 12th Jun 2016 1:48pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2108

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Great supplier/product link Retroanaconda.

Thanks Thumbs Up
Post #539633 12th Jun 2016 2:02pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Retroanaconda wrote:
Any only foam sealing tape will do. Something like this for example:

https://www.tape2go.com/catalog/product/vi...-foam-tape


Hi Retro sorry if this is daft question but is the seal waterproof or are we just using it to fill in between two different types of metal to prevent corrosion? Is the thickness of thr tape an issue?
Post #539647 12th Jun 2016 4:09pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2666

Scotland 
It's primarily to seal it, without anything in there you will get jets of water into the cab if you hit a puddle at speed. Not to mention drafts.

It will also provide some insulation between the metals yes, but in my experience this isn't an area that suffers particularly badly from bimetallic corrosion.
Post #539648 12th Jun 2016 4:30pm
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