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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
agentmulder

the spacers are a light metal alloy...

I had a very slow, notchy change 1-2 and 2-3 when cold.

When I did the write-up, obviously I lubed everything, and soaked it all in ACF50 as well.

My experience would be that the mod is work doing for the cost and complexity of the project...

And yes you need to remove the difflock mechanism...but it's pretty easy and gives you chance to lube everything, and add dynamat in the process... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #528716 3rd May 2016 7:46am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
I was hoping to 3D print the part, it sounds like it's just stopping play on a badly dimensioned bolt/hole, but then PLA has a habit of melting with heat Neutral

I do have a lathe, buuuut it's buried in the garage - found the part at britcar, might just send them on the slow boat with some touch up paint which I've wanted anyway.

Cheers for the heads up, should be interesting, I had a gander at the transfer linkage (from below) when changing oil the other day... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #528718 3rd May 2016 7:52am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17305

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Has anyone tried double-declutching the change from 1 to 2 so see if that helps? If it does, the problem is with the synchro.

It is interesting to me to see this since the R380 in my TD5 Disco 2 is exactly like this, hateful when cold. The change from 1 to 2 when cold has to be done very quickly, but once warm cannot be done very quickly - it is back to the usual leisurely change, or DDC up. On the whole the MT82 in my Puma is vastly superior to the R380 with a faster, smoother change, and much nicer to drive.

There are so many build quality issues with the Puma and its components, it rather defies belief. Why should gearboxes assembled by modern means in the same factory vary so much? Why, for that matter, should some vehicles' output adaptor shaft couplings last hundreds of thousands of miles and others not make it to ten thousand. It simply doesn't make sense! Big Cry
Post #528719 3rd May 2016 8:04am
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1640

Australia 
Yes, I have tried double de-clutching... no difference.

For me, the 'nick' is very variable. Today it was not too bad... however yesterday there quite a loud 'crunch' when I changed from 1-2. I do not rush the change BTW... very slow.

As previously mentioned, my 2014 110 also had the same issue... but my Heritage did not! In fact it was probably smoother and quicker than my trusty BMW 118d!

I seems to me it's just a 'build' issue... random with some worse than others.

With respect to trying Motul 300 gearbox oil as a solution, does anyone know if this oil meets or exceeds the factory specification oil? IF it does, would changing to this oil void a warrantee claim in the event of a gearbox issue? Perhaps a question for Ryan?.. Whistle YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #528783 3rd May 2016 12:31pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
It's a Defender just get used to it worst gearbox ever
Post #528883 3rd May 2016 8:25pm
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
I've used the wiggling in neutral on a few Landies and it works but I think it's probably just that it slows your change speed but because you are doing something, time passes more quickly than if you just let it rest in neutral.
What I have found with the Puma box is that although you can change using just one finger or maybe two, gripping the knob firmly with a full grip makes the change so much better. they don't like light handed, grip it like a man!
Post #528918 3rd May 2016 9:14pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
It's a truck not a coffin dodgers Eurobox with a gearbox the size of a purse so needs to be driven accordingly. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #528940 3rd May 2016 10:05pm
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Erik256



Member Since: 05 Mar 2013
Location: Tallinn
Posts: 22

Estonia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
I also suffer from the occasional "crunch" when going in to 2-nd. I have installed the shims, tried Motul 3000 and other additives that users have recomended on this forum, but nothing has helped. I understood that there were changes to the synchros from VIN (V)7A743840 onward and as my car is one of the earliest, I asumed that this was the probleem. But I see that vehicles from varous production dates suffer from the probleem so it cant be that.

Slow gearchange helps, but in my case the change from 1st to 2nd then takes so long that I loose momentum. So mostly I start with 2nd.
Post #528986 4th May 2016 8:21am
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LoveTheMud



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Weybridge Surrey & Pontefract West Yorkshire
Posts: 411

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Mine is pretty bad - 64 plate with ~12k on.
I find I have to blip the accelerator - difficult in a slow responding diesels - in order to change down,
Changing up, i push the clutch down as hard as possible, but done gently, and change into neutral, as I cant snatch the gears.
I know (or believe) the low box has no impact on this, however I like to make sure its right over.

For me the clutch feels like there is another half inch of travel hiding away up there...
Post #529007 4th May 2016 9:42am
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1640

Australia 
Happyoldgit wrote:
It's a truck not a coffin dodgers Eurobox with a gearbox the size of a purse so needs to be driven accordingly.


Yes I know... it's a truck! And I love it!

I am ok with this 'foyble'. But it's just annoying that I KNOW not all Puma Defender gearboxes are like this... I would MUCH prefer to have one that did not 'nick' into 2nd...

Simply pit, it is the gears 'grating' into position... and that will of course mean gear wear... So long term, who knows...?

My 'determined' side says, take it back to the dealer and ask them to fix. My 'experienced' side says, just accept it and carry on!

Whistle Whistle Whistle Whistle Whistle YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #529014 4th May 2016 10:07am
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gazman



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Alpine White
I noticed mine was doing it, and just like my motorbike if I change gear at a sweet spot in the rpm I don't get it.

If I change at low rpm I get it, so when cold I take my time changing gear or start in 2nd if I can. When warm I rev the engine a little harder and it just slips in. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r
Post #529117 4th May 2016 6:15pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Gear stick waggle from 1 towards 5-6 then into 2 is still 'working'.

So much less 'clank' I now perceive the issue to be between 2-3.

Gonna waggle there too Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #529155 4th May 2016 8:02pm
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Shax



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: London
Posts: 391

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
agentmulder wrote:
I was hoping to 3D print the part, it sounds like it's just stopping play on a badly dimensioned bolt/hole, but then PLA has a habit of melting with heat Neutral


Try PET-G filament... Needs much more heat to extrude, and is way more dimensionally stable than PLA or ABS..
If you are feeling flush, you could always try the carbon fibre reinforced PET-G..
I run my M150 i3 printer at 250C for the extruder and 70C for the bed.. ... ,-------,
.. I [__][_]|__
.. I __ |"_|"__|
.. "(o)====(o)"
^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^
PAUL
G7ALW 14.200 USB
26FB458 / 27.275 SSB
Post #530418 10th May 2016 6:37pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Good tips, but I ordered the parts already, very cheap!

I need to print some mounts for some tools in the back, will use PLA (with low density fill) to test them for size/fit. But that stuff sounds good for the final products Thumbs Up Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #530446 10th May 2016 8:33pm
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ter11



Member Since: 28 Oct 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 26

Switzerland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Hi all

I also suffer from the nick 1st to 2nd (and 2nd to 3rd, but much less on that one). The nick only happens when changing gears up, not when shifting down. My 90 is from 2007 and has 50k km on the odo.

Occasionally I read that the nick became less after people had their clutch replaced. My cluch has quite some play and I hear the "klack" when I stop the engine in neutral without pressing the clutch. But no clutch rattle otherwise.
Anyone with a gear-change nick can confirm an improvement after clutch renewal? Or confirm the opposite?

BR
Ter
Post #530553 11th May 2016 7:24am
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