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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
^^ copper slip contains a metal, copper.... An alloy wheel and a steel wheel hub are two more different metals. Best to use ceramic grease which is entirely metals free to isolate those two different metals, and don't use a third metal to do that job.
Many will have a different opinion about copper slip, but so be it... Whistle
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
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Post #525566 20th Apr 2016 6:01pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Harry.O wrote:
nitram17 wrote:
Don't use copperslip!......for thread use ceremic moly slip or butyl strips or butyl sealant on panels .......anything that separates the two different metals will do as long as it also repels moisture........


Sorry if this is a silly question but why should you not use copperslip?



#Galvonic corrosion ali and copper are quite wide apart in the activity scale the more active ali will corrode in the presence of copper( i am assuming here that there is copper in copperslip)..but it needs moisture preferably salt water to act.you might be ok with copperslip if you have bought a ton of it but why not use an inert product to begin with if you can!Anything that keeps moisture out is better than nothing!
Post #525581 20th Apr 2016 6:41pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
That makes perfect sense Eric and Nitram, a tub of Molyslip is on order Thumbs Up
Post #525824 21st Apr 2016 8:48pm
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mcgiver



Member Since: 12 Sep 2015
Location: brisbane
Posts: 23

Australia 
Product from another application...Alminox...
Alminox is used in the Electrical industry as a paste between aluminium and copper or tinned copper to prevent reaction while maintaining a high conductive bond...have used it as preventative measure with great results ..it may also be a good product to use if your defender is fitted with electronic rust protection,as mine is, to stop electrical isolation of certain body parts or panels..?


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Post #526333 24th Apr 2016 3:20am
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Hi i will your electronic rust protection work on a a car when the ground is the car body?I would be interested if it works!and the chassis and bulkhead would be my first target....Alminox appears a good product but if you wand an all round anti seize paste and galv corrosion preventer i think Molyslip Ceremic is hard to beat ... as someone has already mentioned its owners choice and some would use the ver pricy Tef gel..or the Duralac which is great on panels but sets like Plaster of paris on the threads anyway i think its better to use any of the products mentioned rather than nothing at all.....copperslip however will probably keep the moisture out but i would be worried about corrosion in the long term so i dont see the point in using it ..others will disagree and thats fine !
Post #526402 24th Apr 2016 10:37am
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mcgiver



Member Since: 12 Sep 2015
Location: brisbane
Posts: 23

Australia 
quickly on the electronic protection.....have had it fitted by previous owner from new on 2010 defender that gets taken to the beach and bush...lives under a carport and is looked after but not cosseted and no one believes me when I tell them that its a 6yr old car.....however..... I have noticed isolated corrosion on disc stone guards,exhaust,rear x member and a few bolts but only very cosmetic...the trick is to combine your protection I think so lanolin spray in every tight spot I can find every 3 months and high UV protection wax on the few bits that aren't checkerplate supplements the teckky box that sits inside the battery box under the passenger seat......these kits are std fitment in all mine vehicles here in Qld and a must if you use the beach.....
Post #530337 10th May 2016 8:14am
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