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Stiff1



Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Advice needed ASAP
Laney has been running very lumpy for a few weeks, just had it checked and this is what has been reported.

EGR valvestuck open, air mass sensor, brake light switch, no 2 diesel
injector, heater plugs relay fault and may have worn heater plugs,
engine running relay fault.

What can I do on this myself, eager, with motivation and a little knowledge (can be a dangerous thing).

Advice appreciated.
Post #523203 11th Apr 2016 8:11pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6295

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
there's some on here that will suggest just pulling the heater plug and leave it out - that's one thing out the way.

the egr isn't exactly difficult but certainly awkward. give yourself plenty of time and be prepared to attack from below and above - long thin arms / hands possibly a bonus.

depending on funds it might be considering a re-map to remove the egr and just blank it. the c£100 for the egr will go towards the cost of the egr and fuel savings there after.

once you've done the above I'd re-assess where you're at then look at refurb / replacement of injector as they're not cheap and perhaps the above will resolve the whole lot - how do you know the injector is shot?

good luck.
Post #523243 12th Apr 2016 6:22am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
The EGR is a common thing to go wrong and causes knock on errors with a lot of other things including the MAF. Equally the MAF going could cause reported EGR issues but it's more likely the other way round.

To get the EGR replaced, the part is £150-170ish, plus fitting and it's a completely pain of a job. If you knew what you were doing you could probably do it in 2 hours, I cursed and swore at mine for about 3 before a little wiggle and it all came out really easily. Putting it back and tidying up was about an hour. Definitely doable by an enthusiast with a socket set, helps if you have three really long, strong and spindly arms which I don't have.

The other option is to get it disabled and blanked - all the tuners will do this, Alive charge £120 all in and they have dealers all over the country. The EGR goes wrong frequently as it's not the best of components.

Brakelight switch - have a search but I have a feeling that can be caused by a blown bulb or something in the towing electrics. If I'm remembering the correct fault, that will also cause other issues.

Not sure about the others I'm afraid but I'd start with the EGR.
Post #523280 12th Apr 2016 8:12am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6295

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Forgot to mention.......

as a short term fix try and get your hands on an egr blank. fit it and hopefully this will resolve problems - granted you'll get MIL on the console but at least in the short term you can see if the engine is running better.
Thumbs Up
Post #523282 12th Apr 2016 8:16am
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Stiff1



Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks for all the tips.

As an added note, I have no warning lights on the dash if that helps with the advice.

In sunny Barcelona at the moment but will look into it on my return.
Post #523775 13th Apr 2016 9:01pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20282

United Kingdom 
Cupboard wrote:
The EGR is a common thing to go wrong and causes knock on errors with a lot of other things including the MAF. Equally the MAF going could cause reported EGR issues but it's more likely the other way round. .


Couldn't agree more. Thumbs Up
However, if it's not flagging the MIL ( Amber dash light) I wouldn't say it was urgent to solve.
Imminent pending issues so would be more the words to use, o I'd look at sorting at your earliest convenience.

I'm also pretty sure new injector(s) need to go through an 'injector learn' electronic process too.
If this is needed for refurb only or just new I'm not sure.
Possibly both.

And it's also very true, new they are not cheap.

Also might be worth trying some Millers diesel additive, that might improve a lot and run through everything inc clean injectors.
I run it most of the time.
Post #523783 13th Apr 2016 9:41pm
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