 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > EGR valve replacement? |
 
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
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Using the search function gives following recent thread...
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42489.html You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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3rd Apr 2016 9:22am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971  
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Is it easy to replace? Erm, kind of. The access is a
 , it's one of those things you'll struggle and struggle for ages and then you'll magically get the right angle of the spanner and it will just pop out as easy as anything.
Mine took about three-four hours of me getting fed up to remove, then less than an hour to put it back and tidy the workshop up. I found it helpful to remove the bonnet whilst doing so but you don't have to. Put something on the wings to protect them and kneel on there. Soak everything with penetrating oil first too. The problem is that one of the bolts is underneath, round a corner and right by a hose clip with a load of pipes and other stuff clogging up the access. You can sort of see it from underneath but unless you've got like a meter's worth of 1/4" drive extensions you wouldn't get to it. In the end I found a small 1/4" drive ratchet just by itself was the the easiest thing to do it with. I tried extensions, knuckles, a different sized ratchet, rings, flex-rings, ratchet-rings, flex-ratchet-rings, offset rings and an open ender and nothing really helped. It's gone back together with copper slip. No major damage will occur that I'm aware of but it does make the engine sound nasty (or at least, there's something intermittent making mine sound nasty and I'm pretty sure it's the EGR). New ones are something like £150 but the other (cheaper) option is to get one of the tuners to disable it and then blank it off. If you fit a new one then you don't need to reprogramme anything. |
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3rd Apr 2016 3:33pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20443
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If it gets stuck open you'll probably have limp mode though.
It seems much more common for them to be stuck closed instead. So glad mines shut off permanently. |
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3rd Apr 2016 4:31pm |
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| Shax Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: London Posts: 391  
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Do what I did... Proper remap, no limiter or EGR.. Runs like it should do..  ... ,-------,
.. I [__][_]|__ .. I __ |"_|"__| .. "(o)====(o)" ^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^ PAUL G7ALW 14.200 USB 26FB458 / 27.275 SSB |
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4th Apr 2016 10:51pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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I have no particular desire to drive more than 80MPH.
I have no particular desire to fuel my Defender driving more than 80MPH! The stock power and top speed are perfectly adequate for my usage. |
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5th Apr 2016 5:45pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20443
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Most tyre's are rated to 100 / 110 mph for a Defender.
MUDs often a bit less. KM2's are Q rated and that equates to 99mph. I don't think I've even been past 70 hardly in mine.  |
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5th Apr 2016 5:49pm |
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| wyvern Member Since: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2117 
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I think my remap paid for its self over the years I've had it ...
I was about £250 to have the EGR repalced and that seems to be a common issue with the engine ... and the amount of miles I do its nice not to have to worry about it. I dont go fast, but found the change in the mapping has made the vehicle easier to drive in lower gears. Took it to an off road course last month and found it very smooth in low range etc. Its a personal choice... Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126  |
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5th Apr 2016 6:07pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20443
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Same as above fir me too, EGR valves cost and that mounts up.
Often also causes poor running and decreases MPG. All of these things pay towards the map. |
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5th Apr 2016 6:10pm |
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| I-Landy Member Since: 28 Jan 2015 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 35 
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Thanks, really appreciate the help. Only just noticed the replies.
Since then... Noticed this: Click image to enlarge I'm guessing a fair bit of oil round here isn't good. Is it linked to the EGR making typical failing noises? It is fairly localised to this area and splashed around the engine bay in this area...  |
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6th Apr 2016 4:48pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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Leaking vacuum pump....."they all do that sir"
Common problem with the wabco pump! Nothing EGR related, but will steadily leak more over time. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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6th Apr 2016 4:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20443
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That's the brake vacuum pump on top of the Waterpump.
Try a new gasket, easy to change, unbolt, clean, fit new gasket torque to 23nm Wear gloves too, it's nasty stuff. If it's got on the belt, it could be causing it to slip. |
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6th Apr 2016 5:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20443
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6th Apr 2016 5:11pm |
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| RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 
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Change the whole unit as it is the pump seal on the shaft fails, not the gasket. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
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6th Apr 2016 5:38pm |
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| I-Landy Member Since: 28 Jan 2015 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 35
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Thanks. That's very helpful. I'll order the parts and work on my levels of patience...
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7th Apr 2016 9:00am |
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