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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2079   
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Duralac is very good as a barrier to help prevent galvanic corrosion and it's not too expensive
If you're planning to play about with stainless steel fixings then I'd go for something like Tef Gel as it deals with the galvanic corrosion, seizing and galling - but it's not cheap! There are a number of other offerings, and I'm sure other forum members will have their favourites |
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5th Apr 2016 8:50pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866 
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Thanks for the input, I am on the fence with stainless fittings as I'd rather just replace BZP fittings when necessary than battle corrosion. I was thinking of using it when riveting the panels to galv cappings and other pieces.
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5th Apr 2016 9:01pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Paint will help but it falls short if you want the best protection against GC you need a better barrier i would use one of two products if appropiate to the job .......rubber tape http://www.amazon.co.uk/Butyl-Strip-Sealer...+tape+pond
and Molyslip Ceremic ..its better than Duralac and less expensive than Tef Gel http://www.draketooling.co.uk/Products/mai.../MOL19A005 |
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5th Apr 2016 9:42pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
A small ss bolt (cathode) dipped in moly ceremic and attached to a large ali sheet (large surface area anode)there should be no corrosion ....i would rathr that than a steel bolt allowed to swell with rust and attract moisture. The reason the fake aluminium windscreen hinges corrode is that the ali hinge is the small anode attached to a large surface area cathode (the bulkhead). |
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5th Apr 2016 9:55pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866
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Thanks nitram I'll order some rubber strip and molyslip when I get a chance. I hadn't thought of it as anode/cathode before! I'll invest in some stainless security fixings after all then! Perhaps rubber washers may help too?
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6th Apr 2016 6:25am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2079
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There's plenty on here regarding the issues relating to dissimilar metals (galvanic corrosion) and isolation is the best solution - paste, nylon, rubber, gaskets etc. - taking care not to inadvertently affect structural integrity.
Stainless fasteners introduce their own issues in addition to galvanic corrosion, albeit they are more resistant to corrosion (rust) and folk like their appearance. They are prone to cold-welding (ss on ss) also called galling, so some form of anti-seize paste is recommended. Also keep an eye on tensile strength if using stainless fasteners, as it is generally less strong - however there are many grades of ss which are up to the job. Search on here and you'll find all the info you need. Many on here have chosen to better isolate dissimilar metals/components with nylon washers e.g. Rear crossmember bolts, and better quality gaskets e.g. Faux windscreen hinges.
All part of Land Rover fun |
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6th Apr 2016 6:45am |
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| ad6481 Member Since: 16 Mar 2016 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 8
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I'm also in the middle of a renovation to my 90 and was wondering exactly the same thing about galvanic corrosion. I've got a soft top 90 with the equivalent of Loxx Lift Button fasteners attaching the hood to the tub capping. The male element of those fasteners is basically a self tapper that screws straight into the tub capping at the correct places. Link attached to give everyone an idea of what I'm talking about.
https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?&l=0000001146 The old tub is going to get taken off as there is significant corrosion around the edges of the holes where the self tapping male parts were inserted (as well as everywhere else!). I'm no expert but I was wondering if I could use plumbers PTFE tape as a sealant after I've pilot drilled the holes in order to reattach the male fasteners to the new tub. The fasteners are stainless steel but I may as well go belt and braces. From what I've read it is the water (unsurprisingly) that aids the galvanic corrosion. I just thought that maybe PTFE tape might be an alternative solution to something like copper grease. While I appreciate that this wouldn't help with panel attachments, thoughts would be most welcome on whether something like this would work for what I'm facing with the hood fasteners? |
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15th Apr 2016 10:27am |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Don't use copperslip!......for thread use ceremic moly slip or butyl strips or butyl sealant on panels .......anything that separates the two different metals will do as long as it also repels moisture........
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15th Apr 2016 10:54am |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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I've used Duralac for many years for stainless steel fixings on alli masts of sailing boats. If it is good in aerospace applications and marine use (where moist salty air and dissimilar metal fixings are important factors) it sure is good for my Land Rover. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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15th Apr 2016 11:15am |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
I thought one of the downsides to duralac that it tended to solidify over time and is not a anti seize paste wheras ceremic molyslip is both anti corrosive and anti seize!..............and tef gel is very expensive!
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15th Apr 2016 4:14pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Horses for courses, use Ceramicslip on all studs, nuts, bolts and other threaded connections and Duralac on joining surfaces and flanges.
If I was to use only one product it would be the Duralac; but not on any threaded connections I wanted to remove regularly. |
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16th Apr 2016 6:00am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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I've been using the acf50 corrosion block a few years now - so far it's done as it says in the name
 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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19th Apr 2016 9:20am |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
I think if you read the label I think it states that the grease is effective for about two years or so!
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19th Apr 2016 10:04am |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 712 
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Sorry if this is a silly question but why should you not use copperslip? |
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20th Apr 2016 2:36pm |
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