 | Home > Td5 > Driving lamps and Boomslang loom |
 
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| Loz2286 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 121  
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My headlamp switch is playing up so I'm replacing it. At the same time I'm going to install a Boomslang loom with relays to protect the switch. I'd like to add driving lamps to switch on with the high beams. To save running another wire back to the battery can I just take a jumper from the high beam connection at the H4 connector? Will the relays take the additional loading? Which wire do I connect to?
Thanks  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 1999 Td5 110 CSW 1961 Series 2 88 LPG |
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1st Apr 2016 9:31pm |
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| Flyingfocrs Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 155  
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You will need to wire them seperately with their own relay/loom etc.
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1st Apr 2016 9:40pm |
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| Lost for Words Member Since: 18 Jun 2015 Location: Warminster, Wiltshire Posts: 200 |
Do you already have said lamps? (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic44406.html
 ) Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver |
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2nd Apr 2016 7:14am |
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| Loz2286 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 121
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Finally got round to fitting the Boomslang loom today. Firstly I installed an auxiliary fuse box in the engine compartment to supply the various bits I'm going to install. I then fitted the loom following the instructions. The headlights are definitely brighter, but I've lost my sidelight option. The side lamps work when the ignition is off but the headlight switch only gives me dipped headlights not the side plus dimmed headlight.
Any ideas? Would this be an MOT failure? 1999 Td5 110 CSW 1961 Series 2 88 LPG |
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23rd Apr 2016 9:27pm |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 
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The lack of dim/dip headlights should not pose any problems come MOT time, it's not a legal requirement.
They were introduced in the UK in the 80's but so far as I can make out, they were only legally required for a short time because it went against some EU regulation. I don't think I've seen any other cars still using them for many years now. I disconnected mine by unplugging the dim/dip resistor when I fitted the Boomslang loom. One of these days I might get round to by-passing the relay altogether to improve reliability. |
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24th Apr 2016 7:51am |
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| Loz2286 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 121
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Thanks for the tip, Clive, now sorted. I pulled the dim/dip relay and bridged the gap as suggested on YouTube. 1999 Td5 110 CSW
1961 Series 2 88 LPG |
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24th Apr 2016 7:55pm |
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| alexatnd Member Since: 19 May 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 279
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Quick question,
Are their any TD5 models that have a headlamp relay fitted as standard ? I've got a 1999 110 and a 2004 110. While I'd expect the 1999 onen not to have one, I would have expected the 2004 one to have one ... Rgds A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County |
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7th Sep 2017 2:51pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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No, they're all the same to the end of production without relays in the circuit. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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7th Sep 2017 7:08pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3785  
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Not according to this forum.
There was a thread on it where a Landrover bulletin was mentioned saying that an additional relay was in place for post 2012 Defenders. I think it mentioned that it didn't fix the flasher, or the puny wiring, but it did fix the headlight switch issue. Pickles. |
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7th Sep 2017 10:08pm |
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| alexatnd Member Since: 19 May 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 279
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That's o.k. 1999 and 2004 and a series III Guess I need to go buy 3
 Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County |
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8th Sep 2017 8:22am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello All
Fitted the Boomslang Loom and upgraded my Headlight Bulbs over the weekend and thought I'd give a few observations...which may be useful for those considering doing the same. The Boomslang Kit looks OK but could be better in a few areas... I had read here on D2N that a few people had issues with the Fuse Holder (40Amp) and it melting... 
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49174....p;start=60 Well I had a number of issues with the main 'Power Supply' feed to the Loom, yes the Fuse Holder looks 'rubbish' with both the IN and OUT feeds being very close to one another, but also the Red Wire Main Connection to the Battery on first 'inspection' looks OK, but on handling feels 'lightweight'...pull the sleeve back and you are looking at maybe a 1 - 1.5 mm Wire...which just doesn't look right, especially as the 'output' Blue Feed Wire designed to run along the Chassis, on a Defender, up to the Main Relays of the Boomslang Loom located in or near the Near Side Front Headlight, looks more up to the job at 2- 2.5mm (i'd say)...Why do these two wires differ so much... and the Initial Feed (Red Wire) look so 'feeble' 
Click image to enlarge I have always found that Every Loom would be that much better if 10% longer, whilst it is probably possible to run the Blue Feed Wire as described...I just wanted 300mm extra to run it where it looked right...so I dispensed with both and replaced this feed wire with a good quality 2.5mm wire directly into a Blue Sea Fuse Holder, hopefully avoiding any issues in this area. Click image to enlarge I installed the Main Loom as advised, mounted the Relays high up in the Near Side Front Wing (in a protected position) I made up a simple bracket to hold these 2 Relays to achieve this. I looked at all connections on the Boomslang and all looked OK, I took an unconventional (more direct) route between the Near Side and Off Side Headlights, going through the Radiator Cowling, which was more work but gave just that little extra length were needed Plugging the H4 Ceramic Connectors onto the back of the Headlights, with room to manoeuvre. I upgraded my Headlight Bulbs to Halfords Xenon 60/55W which potentially give upto 120% brighter output. Click image to enlarge As with the Main Power Feed I connected both Earths and ran a Single 2.5mm Earth Wire back to the Battery. All worked first time, I didn't have the Dim-Dip Resistor Removal Issue (which I was pleased about) so for me it was basically Plug and Play...but with a few 'improvements' added (in my opinion) What has been achieved is a brighter output... 
and hopefully a longer life expectancy for the Headlight Switch (Stalk) within the cabin, so please overall...and probably worth the effort to make this aspect more reliable. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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21st Jan 2018 5:31pm |
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| alexatnd Member Since: 19 May 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 279
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Must admit I wasn't too impressed with the length diameter and colour of cables supplied with the boomslang setup.
I ran a 50 amp cable from battery +ve to NSF wing near the windscreen washer bottle. Installed an insulated bus bar there and then connected the boomslang fuse holder wire to that. Cut ceramic connector off the NSF end and fed through 2 holes in the radiator/intercooler mounting brackets and soldered cables. As you said the fuse holder is crap. Also the twin relay block ... theres nothing to attach it to the bodywork. so its just lying against the inner wing behind the NSF headlamp... and you can see bare metal of the connector blades as you look at it. The version from the Dutch website that I also purchased is WAY better. Longer cables thicker wires and you can bolt the fuse holder to the bodywork. Been running setup for a few months and did make a great impreovement. However, wife was out one night at disk and lights just went off. Checked fuse was o.k. Squeezed the H4 plug/socket connector that links the new harness to the lights and everything came back on again. Oh Yes ... and 25 quid for the dim dip replacement module .... urgh!!! got a part number for the Blue Seay Fuse holder ? Looks cool, could do with that at some point Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County |
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22nd Jan 2018 2:52pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello alexatnd
I've now installed 4 + and - Cables back to the Battery for various accessories, so I'm now at capacity with this Product. Good quality, and Blue Sea looks to review well generally. I got mine from Mudstuff... http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/blue-sea-fuse-block.html
Do you know what the logic is to which Defenders have a Dim Dip Resistor fitted...I searched around under the off side 'air vent' as mentioned here on D2N but found nothing and No Replacement Module was needed (I haven't seen one or would know where to get one either)...the Boomslang Instructions makes No mention of this potential extra step...so another 'could be better' observation... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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22nd Jan 2018 5:11pm |
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| alexatnd Member Since: 19 May 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 279
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The blue sea stuff looks cool, can think of uses for that in Efie the other 110 and Santa the Series 3.
The Dim Dip module is behind the driver console, move the console out of the way and look in the bottom right hand corner, if present its what looks like a pink relay. The replacement fits in there. You should just see the top of it As to whether you;ve got one or not, talking to the folks at Black Paw 4x4 they said they've no idea as to the logic of which Defenders have it and which don't. They've had modesl from the same year in and one has the relay while the other doesn't A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County |
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23rd Jan 2018 12:24pm |
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