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stricko

Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 120

Handbrake 'double pull' to get it to work

Hi

My handbrake sometimes needs a 'double pull' to get it to hold the car. By that I mean after the first pull and a 2-3 clicks it seems to release slightly and needs to be pulled again.

It doesn't happen every time.

I did query this with the place I bought it from but they didn't seem to think it was an issue and said most defenders are like that.

I don't recall my previous two being like it.

Its not really a major issue to me as I am used to it now and always check it, however if there is an easy fix it would be good to know.

Cheers ---------------------------------------------------------------

29th Mar 2016 5:56am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6300

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Stricko,

is it the 2010MY Black one as noted in your 'signature'?

if so could it be it needs the hand brake recall to be carried out - this is where box oil can leak onto the back brake?

if the shoes are clean then so far as I'm aware the brake works very well - the only common issue I'm aware of is the shoes rubbing but wouldn't think that has anything to do with what you've mentioned unless some how something has glazed over as a result of the rubbing?

good luck with sorting it out. If it's an early 2010MY I'd have expected it to just about be sorted by now. Mine was a late 2010MY and I think it's just recently all got sorted.

29th Mar 2016 9:23am

stricko

Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 120

Thanks Caterham

Yes it is the 2010MY one.

Do you know the recall number? I will try and check it out with a main dealer to find out as I dont have any record of any recalls done. I am the second owner.

The problem could also be described as the cable feeling like it stretches when you do the first pull, then there is a bit of slack to take up again when you do the second pull. This happens when it is on the flat as well as on a slope.

Not sure if that would be the same as the issue caused by the problem you describe above, however I will definitely look into it.

Thanks again ---------------------------------------------------------------

29th Mar 2016 9:30am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Not normal at all, the supplier is giving you the brush-off.

29th Mar 2016 9:33am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6300

not wanting to bore you with the problems I experienced but you could try this....

on the flat apply hand brake and determine how far the leaver moves. drive forward a short distance - say 0.5 mtrs and apply hand brake and not how far the lever moves.

mine would move varying amounts as the output flange wasn't true and hence the drum was oscillating. not only was the hand brake variable but most importantly I couldn't adjust the hand brake properly and would always rub slightly causing other issues. New flange and all sorted.

29th Mar 2016 9:37am

Happyoldgit

Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey

Agreed. I would say the ratchet or other part f the operating mechanism could be sticky as opposed to oil on the linings as per Caterham's suggestion. The latter is more likely to cause the brake to slip when applied or even bind when in motion. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.

29th Mar 2016 9:39am

stricko

Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 120

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I will drag myself away from my work later and go outside and try and establish a pattern of what happens.

Is a new flange a big/expensive job? ---------------------------------------------------------------

29th Mar 2016 9:53am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6300

new flange is a doddle - even I managed to replace it (albeit with some guidance) and it's been ok since.

cost - If I recall the cost for the full kit (ie flange, lock nut, felt washer etc) was about £100. my memory aint the best so might be worth checking that cost. Also I seem to recall there was a loss of some oil so be prepared to top up if you carry out this procedure.

29th Mar 2016 10:01am

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