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dave18



Member Since: 11 Jul 2015
Location: Gorleston, Great Yarmouth
Posts: 497

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Portofino Red
Insulating Garage
Hey peeps I'm fortune in that my garage is 30-40ft wide by 15ft deep and has a hay loft. Now most of the house is done I'm turning my attention to the garage and want to insulate it but not 100% how to go about it.

It was built roughly 1875 or even earlier and is single brick with tree 7-8' square doors and one side door. I'm thinking of bricking up the end large door as it's not used but do it in a way that I can leave the outside door in place so it still looks original. Then to insulate batten the walls like a false wall and then fill the space with celetex or similar and finally WBP plasterboard over the top. Door the roof I think all the tiles will have to come off as several need replacing and they have been cemented on and the roof has shifted a bit so loads of daylight coming through but luckily no water so thinking remove the tiles then plyboard on the timbers roof felt then tiles and for the inside again fill the space with celetex and WBP plasterboard over the top.

So what's your opinions and experiences???
Here is a pic of it from Street view with the wife's D2 and my 90 in the garage think I was doing the cylinder head at the time.


Click image to enlarge
Post #518209 27th Mar 2016 2:03pm
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Rosco



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1833

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
You lucky so and so Shocked I'd give a kidney for a garage that size.

As for the insulation question, it's more a question of what's your budget? I work in building new homes and the difference in price on insulation products to achieve a 'U' value can be surprising. If it was me, once happy it's water tight, insulate between the rafters leaving you the higher ceiling space for storage if needed/space for car lift. On th walls, timber stud with insulation between and breather paper, on the outside, ply face to the inside. Effectively the same then as a timber frame building. Maybe some sort of floor tile.

I wouldn't bother with plasterboard. 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW
Post #518339 27th Mar 2016 10:24pm
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Swac3



Member Since: 21 Feb 2015
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 363

Not a garage but we did our kitchen a few years back, House is 2 1/2 foot stone walls and had 40mm timber framing on the inside with just plasterboard,

Stripped the board, barrier paper to the outside face and used celotex type insulation, really easy to cut with a regular saw, just butted up one side and ran the saw down the next wall stud for a nice tight fit, so similar to Dave18s suggestion except we had the existing timber frame up.

Did the roof trusses by just putting the celotex boards between them, we didn't push them up tight to the sarking as our place is basically timber planks with tiles nailed on, there's no kind of barrier so need to be sure we still had good air flow above the insulation.

We used the water resistant foil backed plasterboard but really surface finish is up to you for a garage i'd maybe be tempted to use PLY as well as it'd be more durable and better for screwing stuff onto, only downside I can see is it being a fuel source 'IF' you had a fire where plaster board is basically inert, 3 Landrovers
Post #518345 27th Mar 2016 11:41pm
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dave18



Member Since: 11 Jul 2015
Location: Gorleston, Great Yarmouth
Posts: 497

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Portofino Red
Cheers for the reply. The garage was a huge deal breaker for buying thw house, saw nice houses but no parking but this one is huge house built in 1875 end terrace so even the smallest of the 3 bed rooms fits a king-size bed with room for wardrobes. Bathroom is big enough for both a 900x900 quadrant shower and full size bath and loo. Bought for £130k 5 years lol

Swac budget won't be hugebut heard the likes of B&Q are NOT the place to go for this stuff as I can get better quality stuff for the price they sell the cheap stuff?? Roof space is what you said between the rafters . Due to the beams going front to back can't get a lift in there. Saying that might be able to remove said beams as they are only beams and not tied into the rafters. Hmmm

What is this breather paper?? I'm guessing it's to act a membrane but would I just no nails it to the wall batten over the top and the insulation on top or would there need to be an air gap???

Never thought of using ply instead of plasterboard. I'm guessing I can get fire rated stuff for use in the home ?
Post #518351 28th Mar 2016 5:57am
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Rosco



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1833

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Breather paper is there as a moisture barrier. This possibly shows it better albeit a little overkill for what you need.


http://www.glidevale.com/downloads/protect_tf200_thermo.pdf

Fire rated ply won't be cheap, and if fire safety is a concern for you, I'd go plasterboard. You can get fire resistant plasterboard, but as Swac has said plasterboard is an inert material anyway so I wouldn't go to the extra expense, but I would use the moisture resistant board.

As for pricing I'd use B&Q as a benchmark for pricing, (they often run loss leader promotions which gives the impression they are cheaper then they really are) and then speak to your local builders merchant. Typically speaking the staff there are pretty knowledgable, they'll probably deliver it for free and will be willing to at least price match, if not better B&Q 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW
Post #518383 28th Mar 2016 9:24am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Have pm'd you dave18 as I can probably give you a lead to a supplier of 2nds of a well know brand of foam insulation. There's nothing wrong with it thermally just may have slight cosmetic defects. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.


Last edited by Happyoldgit on 28th Mar 2016 10:45am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #518385 28th Mar 2016 9:35am
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Swac3



Member Since: 21 Feb 2015
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 363

DIY stores as you know aren't usually a good deal (sometimes maybe) We mail ordered our Insulation boards, but we're a bit out of it here so don't have a big choice of suppliers locally.

The barrier goes on the outside of your new timber framework, ie towards your brickwork Usually staple gunned to the timber and then taped, to bridge the warm / cold side so the damp/condensation isn't on your inside surface, if you've seen a new build going up its directly on the insulation/timbers no need for a gap there.


Do you really need a platform to do the roof insulation ? if you get insulation slabs in the width of your rafters its really light, and do you really need to ply the roof ? Coat of paint would smarten it up and help reflect more light

My fire comment may be a non issue to be fair, it was just the only real downside I thought of over plaster board. Ply isn't that easy to set fire to, and as your garage isn't attached or got habitable rooms above it I don't 'think' you even need fire treated stuff as its not a substantial portion of the structure, don't take my word for anything re building regs mind you Smile 3 Landrovers
Post #518394 28th Mar 2016 10:08am
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harry44



Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: cheshire
Posts: 6

have a look into kingspan / eco therm insulation, it is used ALOT in the building trade now, its great and it doesn't make you itch like fibreglass type insulation, if you need to buy in bulk there is someone selling on eBay where the sheets have a manufacturing fault (not me btw)
Post #519017 29th Mar 2016 7:33pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Rosco wrote:
You lucky so and so Shocked I'd give a kidney for a garage that size.

As for the insulation question, it's more a question of what's your budget? I work in building new homes and the difference in price on insulation products to achieve a 'U' value can be surprising. If it was me, once happy it's water tight, insulate between the rafters leaving you the higher ceiling space for storage if needed/space for car lift. On th walls, timber stud with insulation between and breather paper, on the outside, ply face to the inside. Effectively the same then as a timber frame building. Maybe some sort of floor tile.

I wouldn't bother with plasterboardv.


Ha! I'd give a kidney for any garage. Hate working on the 110 on the side of the road...

If I were going about it, this is also what I would do. It is amazing what difference cladding alone will do to increase the warmth of a building. And as said above plaster board is definitely not worth it, smallest amount of a leak and it'll ruin and go black with mould.

One day I will have somewhere dry to work under, even if it is just a car port...
Post #519065 29th Mar 2016 8:56pm
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