Home > Technical > Power supply in rear of 110 |
|
|
Rashers Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3514 |
I believe that your Defender is too new and the cable that you are looking for does not exist. I have a 14 Plate Defender and I remember reading on here somewhere that this cable was removed on newer vehicles?
|
||
3rd Mar 2016 5:16pm |
|
Brewstop Member Since: 28 Oct 2012 Location: South Oxfordshire Posts: 313 |
All is explained in this thread:-
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic20319.html Sandy |
||
3rd Mar 2016 6:10pm |
|
Greadh Member Since: 17 Feb 2016 Location: North West Posts: 97 |
As above, explained in thread, but to cut to chase. Driver side rear wheel arch (Rhd). Right at back is plastic flap, unscrew or just bend up. Behind this is a large grey connector for trailer electrics, clipped to body/bracket. If no trailer electrics fitted it will be empty, but either way, puple cable goes into the connector, but not used on 12n (7 pin) trailer electrics - splice in here, cut cable and join additional cable. Could use scotch blocs, but generaly soldering (cover with heat shrink) or crimp connector would be better. There is then a protected bit of loom going through gromit in underside of body, behind the rear light. Be sure to put new cable in the protected conduit and through gromit to protect.then add ahat ever you want to this, usb/lighter etc. If you use or plan on using 13 pin or 12S trailer (caravan or trailer tent) be sure to also reconnect the puple cable to the trailer electrics where you cut it. I did it last week, took about an hour to do it tidy. Be sure to use suitable wire, 20amp fuse purple wire runs off, I added an additional 5 amp inline fuse ( I dont need much power back there) and used 15 amp wire. It was easier than it sounds Forgot to say - remove the fuse when doing it, else you run risk of shorting it and blowing fuse..... |
||
3rd Mar 2016 7:30pm |
|
Bug Member Since: 03 Mar 2016 Location: Hayling Island Posts: 19 |
Many thanks. I've not got round to doing it yet but all looks straightforward.
|
||
23rd Mar 2016 2:21pm |
|
Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2245 |
Or just as easy to avoid molesting your towing electrics, just run a 20 amp wire from the battery via a fuse to the back of your 110. Use twin core and you can use the battery earth . Run it out of the battery box across underneath and down the chassis longitudinal. Put it inside some split convoluted plastic tubing to protect it and job done. Less than an hour to do.
If you were close I'd do it for you just to show you how simple it is to do. HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey Last edited by Mo Murphy on 23rd Mar 2016 6:36pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
23rd Mar 2016 6:27pm |
|
miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 |
As Mo Murphy, except mine is run inside the cab, because I chucked it in in a hurry! 4mmsq cable, 30A fuse, powers rear worklight, lighter socket in rear, inverter in rear, and at some point some extra external lighting.
I also have a 2nd battery, so ran it in powered off that. |
||
23rd Mar 2016 6:36pm |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis