 | Home > In Car Electronics > Closed cell foam |
 
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772   
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Dynamat type products only stop vibration where as ccf can stop some noise, also it insulates so makes the vehicle warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Being closed cell it doesn't absorb water like the standard factory insulation. As for thickness it depends on where your putting it, under the roof lining I'd say no more than 5mm but under the boot carpet (if you have one) you could put 10/20mm. Mass loaded vinyl on top of the ccf would stop even more noise. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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8th Mar 2016 8:41pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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^ 10 mm under roof lining fits easily, see this thread about insulation of my roof. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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8th Mar 2016 9:20pm |
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| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404 
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So can it be used as a stand alone item? Or better suited over the top of dynamat and instead of factory carpet? I still have doors to do and headlining so just getting the list together for summertime. I have the factory carpet down over the dynamat in the rear (csw) so either it stays or goes in lieu of thick cell. Mass loaded vinyl??? Ray your just overloading my brain now
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8th Mar 2016 9:23pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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Closed cell foam won't be good as carpet replacement as like most foam products it will just rip off in chunks in normal everyday use, it needs to be covered to protect it. It can be used on its own without sound deadening but with a defenders big flat panels like the roof etc it's definately worth adding Dynamat or something similar.
@ veetee, the reason i said 5 mm is probably the most on the roof is because I added 2 layers of sound deadening first as with the roof being so flat I felt this was more necessary than the difference between 5 and 10mm would make to noise or heat. With the sound deadening and 10mm ccf I found it very hard to get the roof lining back up so ended up taking the ccf down to 5mm on the curves down the sides of the roof so the lining would go back on. There are a few pics of my sound deadening/insulating efforts in my build thread. Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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8th Mar 2016 10:34pm |
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| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404
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Thanks for your replies Ray, I do use your thread for reference purposes a fair bit. What did you do inside your doors?
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9th Mar 2016 7:45am |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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closed cell foam neither blocks sound or absorbs it! it is however a very good heat insulator! CSF is used to decouple mass loaded vinyl (MLF)
my advice would be something like dodo barrier which is MLV bonded to CSF. this stuff is much better at blocking sound!! My 109 thread my youtube channel |
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9th Mar 2016 8:07am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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I used the same stuff in a couple of the doors but I've decided to replace all the doors so I'll do them all properly when the doors arrive. Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Mar 2016 9:15am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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I have to disagree a little, as although it's a small amount I'd say ccf does block some sound but the main benefit is insulation.  Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Mar 2016 9:17am |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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placebo ! lol. yea I've heard its supposed to help a little, to be honest I've got deadener CSF and MLV and its still a noisy old bus!
 My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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9th Mar 2016 9:38am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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I can have a conversation at a normal level at motorway speeds in mine
 Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Mar 2016 10:26am |
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| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404
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So your'll do the doors properly when you change them....properly how?
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9th Mar 2016 2:56pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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My chosen method (which may differ to others) is, after I've had the new doors painted on the inside of the outer skin put a full layer of sound deadening right upto the inner frame braces, then add one extra layer in the centre. Then I'll add some sikaflex to the edge of each bracing bar on top of the factory sealer so the door skin can't seperate from the brace (which I've seen happen in loads of different cars and causes lots of drumming sound) then I'll add a layer of sound deadening to the bolt on inner panel, put a new water shedder on then a layer of ccf on the back of the door trim. It may be overkill but this sort of layering always worked well when I was young and had lots of stereo gear in the car
 also I'll be spraying bilt hamber wax in all the box sections of the doors. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Mar 2016 3:47pm |
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| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404
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Yeah that's pretty involved then
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9th Mar 2016 3:59pm |
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