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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
TD5 Cutting out and won't start until next day
I have a serious issue with my TD5 Defender which is driving me to insanity and bankrupting me trying to resolve, the situation is as follows:

When we had the cold snap over the new year it struggled to start a couple of times and ran rough with plume of white smoke (unburnt fuel) on initial startup, usually it starts straight away. At the time I put it down to the coolant temp which was 1 degree and forgot about the issue. Only when it did it for a third time did I check the oil level which seemed a little higher than usual so I kept and eye on it whilst at a P&P site as I couldn't be sure what the level was previously.
It ran great all day then half way home it just cut out like a switch had turned something off.....so I immediately though crash switch, fuel pump or immobilizer, all of which were fine. After trying to purge the system it still refused to start even though it does fire slightly initially. I gave up and a mate saved me with a tow home.

When I got home it still wouldn't refused to start so I swapped the relays out, nothing but on swapping the old ones back it started and ran for about 15 seconds before cutting out again. Confused as to what was playing up I left it over night and tried to start it the following night which it started and ran fine.

I took it out for a run the following Saturday, it ran fine until I pulled onto my drive and it cut out again and refused to start, luckily I had Nanocom running and it came back with the following:

(10,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED).
---
(10,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOA D, (LOGGED).
---
(14,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT).
---
(14,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT).
---
(20,5) EGR VALVE STUCK CLOSED, (LOGGED).
---
(24,5) EGR VALVE STUCK CLOSED, (CURRENT).
---
(27,1) INJECTOR 1 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
---
(27,2) INJECTOR 2 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
---
(27,3) INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
---
(27,4) INJECTOR 4 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
---
(27,5) INJECTOR 5 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
---
(31,3) INJECTOR 3 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
---
(31,4) INJECTOR 4 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
---
(31,5) INJECTOR 5 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
---

I do not have aircon and I have deleted the EGR so could only assume it was injector related.

Looking around on the web people had this code when oil was in the loom, I had none and had not long changed the loom but thought it was worth a shot so I did the injector seals and loom using all genuine LR parts.
Once done I coded the injectors correctly as I noticed the previous owner hadn't done this and it ran fine, took it out for a drive and after about 15 minutes it cut out again and wouldn't start......same fault codes logged.

Not wanting to be defeated I changed the FPR, fuel filter, air bleed valve, one way valve with genuine LR parts and cleaned the lift pump filters, still the same fired up and then died 15 mins later.

Noticed the FPR leak had coated the crank sensor so changed that, still the same.

Pulled the MAP sensor which was slightly melted on one side once it was cleaned up but it seemed to be reading ok (I will change this anyway but I don't think it is the issue).

MAF sensor looks ok on the logs but cleaned that anyway. Unplugging this whilst running doesn't seem to make a difference to the miss fire....not sure if it should?

I am pretty stumped now other than swapping the ECU I am at a dead end, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!?

If I were to swap the ECU which is currently MSB010360, is there an equivalent NNN ECU I need to buy and can I transfer my BAS map easily using Nanocom?

Thanks for help in advance!

Matt
Post #499005 1st Feb 2016 10:13am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Sorry to hear of your troubles. I have also been plagued by TD5 related non-starting/firing and random cutting out.

I had those exact same fault codes incidentally.

When you fit the loom it is a good measure to fill the plug with instant gasket to seal it up, stop any oil getting in to the contacts and then in to the loom leading down to your ECU. The last time I did this job I noticed that the OEM looms were not a snug a fit as the LR version, in particular the seal on the inside of the injector plugs. Think I had a bearmach one and the seals looked woefully inadequate. I also cleaned out the injector contact sockets as well as there was alot of oil pooling in them.

Result... Cured the problem and not had it again since.
Post #499026 1st Feb 2016 11:01am
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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
Thank you for the advice!

Having replaced the loom with a genuine LR and filled the connectors with silicon contact spray, I am confident it isn't oil in the loom but I will double check tonight that no more has found its way in again.

Ideally I could do with finding someone I can quickly borrow an ECU from in the area, for beer tokens obviously!

Would anyone be able to confirm that the two ECU's that I could replace it with are either:
NNN000120
NNN500020

Thanks,
Matt
Post #499106 1st Feb 2016 1:51pm
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mrd1990



Member Since: 16 Aug 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 600

Wales 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Alive tunning told me the MSB101171, MSB101360 and MSB000080 are the best ECUs for my00 TD5s (at least for remapping!?).

Remember, you can't swap the ECU with another as it is programmed to the alarm ECU - you'll want to swap that as well or get it reprogrammed. Also the injector tolerances wont be correct as they are unique for each engine, this might cause the engine to run rough - Not sure if it will cause engine damage?

From what I've read, only the crank sensor will actually stop the TD5 electronic, but if you've changed it then all that is left is the injector loom or the loom between the injector loom and ECU. Neutral Have you checked the ECU socket/plug for any sign of oil or dirt?
Post #499241 1st Feb 2016 7:01pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Well I am currently near you Whitchurch, however as mrd1990 says you cannot just swap an Ecuador it has to be programmed to your injectors and alarm. All kinds of weird craziness would ensue. Rolling Eyes

One more thing popped up earlier whilst pondering your predicament. When I asked Ian at IRB about this he suggested running the eco earth back to the negative terminal of the battery as even a slight amount of corrosion or loss of contact can do weird things to a TD5 ecu. Worth a try for a length of wire. Same would go for the engine and chassis earths too, make sure they are clean and functioning.

Worth a try...
Post #499299 1st Feb 2016 8:27pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
mrd1990 wrote:
Alive tunning told me the MSB101171, MSB101360 and MSB000080 are the best ECUs for my00 TD5s (at least for remapping!?).

Remember, you can't swap the ECU with another as it is programmed to the alarm ECU - you'll want to swap that as well or get it reprogrammed. Also the injector tolerances wont be correct as they are unique for each engine, this might cause the engine to run rough - Not sure if it will cause engine damage?

From what I've read, only the crank sensor will actually stop the TD5 electronic, but if you've changed it then all that is left is the injector loom or the loom between the injector loom and ECU. Neutral Have you checked the ECU socket/plug for any sign of oil or dirt?


Very true, during my trawl through the forums on this subject there was mention of the loom perishing over time and even in some cases the the loom had rubbed on its mountings producing either an intermittent fault or an outright game over rover...

Worth doing thorough check of the main gloom running to the ecu. First for obvious wear and if that does not produce any joy a contact by contact continuity test...
Post #499301 1st Feb 2016 8:31pm
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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
Thanks for the replies!

Sorry I should of mentioned that I have Nanocom and know what I am doing in order to program the ECU to learn the immobiliser and can do injector codes in 30 seconds not that it would need them to run.

I have run an earth from the ECU (in fact everywhere that requires one) so that should be good.

Had a bit of a break through last night, finger crossed, where by accident I found that if it wiggled the loom going into the seat box I could induce the misfire, make it run perfectly or the left hand relay under the seat would click and the engine cut out. Doing some continuity and resistance tests it was hard to replicate with just one set of hands but the loom is in a right state so I think I need to source a replacement before I spend a load on an ECU.

Bit of research later it seems that I need a YSB106902 loom so I will hunt one down and report back when it is fitted.

Matt
Post #499462 2nd Feb 2016 9:59am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Ah so a loom issue then. Well done for finding that. A singularly irritating fault. There are numerous posts on forums about the subject.

Have you by chance also checked the relays in the ECU compartment? IIRC they are prone to shorting internally and eroding the contacts, esspecially the fuel pump relay (Yellow I think). Worth swapping them out or opening them up to check condition.
Post #499484 2nd Feb 2016 10:54am
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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
Fingers crossed that I have nailed the fault down now to the ecu loom but until I find one and swap it I cannot be sure.

I have changed the yellow tyco relays but not the rear most black feel at next to the fuel pump relay, this is the one making the click as the engine mis fires and dies.

Really struggling to get hold of a new loom though, no body seems to stock them and even LR only make them to order. Not sure if it is worth bothering with a used loom? The 10p with aircon looms seem very rare, does anyone know if a 15p loom with fit?

Thanks,
Matt
Post #499637 2nd Feb 2016 7:12pm
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simon119



Member Since: 05 Apr 2012
Location: SG11, Herts
Posts: 40

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 HT Rutland Red
I had a similar problem not long ago. Wiggling the loom would make relay click and engine cut out.
Turned out to be one of the blue header joints in the seat box with the ecu. Cut the header off, cleaned up the corroded wires, soldered them together and covered them in adhesive heat shrink.
Has been good as gold since, touch wood.
Could be worth a try before splashing out on a new loom. Just remember that the header joints to multiple circuits so make sure you only joint the wires together that should be.

HTH
Simon
Post #499822 3rd Feb 2016 9:27am
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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
So new loom fitted and it appears to have fixed the cutting out issue, however the misfire is still evident.

It isn't throwing any fault codes but the injector balance is all over the place, does this imply it is the injectors themselves, fuel pump or a cracked head?

Picked up some injectors over the weekend so want to get them refurbed to make sure they are good, does anyone recommend anywhere in the midlands?

Really need to get this sorted!
Post #501991 8th Feb 2016 7:37am
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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
Swapped number 2&5 injectors as the balance was way off on these but still the misfire is there after around 15 seconds of running.

Would a dodgy fuel pump cause this or is it more likely to be a cracked head or head gasket?

I've picked up a 15p engine anyway as I was planning to build up a special engine for when I put a galv chassis on at the same time but my current chassis has loads of life and the 10p engine has only done 70k so I am keen to get the most out of it and just keep it as a future spare.

Cheers,
Matt
Post #504506 14th Feb 2016 9:50am
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I know that you would have checked when you changed the injectors but are you positive that the seals and washers were good, the last time I had a fuel misfire problem it was the seals and washers even though there wasn't any tell tale diesel in the oil or even a whiff when you took the cap off
Post #504569 14th Feb 2016 11:48am
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rfkdemon



Member Since: 02 Apr 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
I have put genuine injector seals and washers on so fairly sure it isn't that, although I am tempted to change them again just incase.

I don't get any fault codes now that I have changed the loom, just a slight misfire after 15 seconds of running.

Loathed to replace the lift pump as I have had it out and all seems ok filter wise, plus surely it would only effect fuel flow at the top end, not at idle?

Cheers,
Matt
Post #505766 18th Feb 2016 10:28am
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 1006

Wales 
What's your fuel pressure like ?
Post #506302 19th Feb 2016 9:50pm
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