 | Home > Td5 > drive flanges |
 
|
|
|
| derbywill Member Since: 25 Mar 2010 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 557   
|
If you apply a little heat it releases the threadlock and should come out! that's what I do with mine.
Regards Will 2005 90 XS 1954 86'' Series 1 tilt 1968 88” 2A 200tdi 2002 110 Hardtop |
||
8th Feb 2016 12:19pm |
|
| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
Rears came off easy - bolts no problem. Flanges slid off - bit of EP90 behind them so I guess whatever oil seal is supposed to be there is leaking. But I can live with that. New ones on no problem and has made a noticable difference to clunks after changing gear, so happy so far.
Fronts a bit trickier though  , drier and rusted on. Didn't try to hard, just gave them a soaking in oll + grease and will try again in a few days once that's hopefully worked it's way down the splines.
So my question is: how rough can I get with them? How hard can I pull? and if, like other I have to resort to getting a grinder out - is there anything I should know? And how hard is getting the new ones on going to be? Cheers! |
||
|
15th Feb 2016 10:45pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372  
|
It is generally an advantage to have some axle oil leaking into the drive flange/hub area, and in fact many people remove the seal between the axle and the hub to encourage this. The oil helps to prevent fretting between the flange and the halfshaft and can greatly prolong the life of both components. The downside is that there can be lubricant egress issues onto fromthe back of the hub onto the brake disk, but provided the hub oil seals are in good condition it should be fine (and if thy're not in good condition you're likely to get leakage anyway).
The drive flange bolts are not particularly fragile (they're grade 10.9) and a fair bit of force can be applied to remove them. It is a curious phenomenon that they seem to break when being unscrewed more often that when screw in, but this will only happen if they have been damaged when bweing inserted - the hold that the threadlock has is not, by itself, anything linke enough to cause a problem. The usual problem is that when the bolts are inserted the hole is partially plugged by gasket compound and thread lock adhesive which is forced to the bottom of the hole where the bolt then compresses it (the holes are, of course, blind). Since the plug of gloop is incompressible the bolt stops and goes tight, before it is fully home. The normal reaction of the baboon on the spanner at this point is to go with the brute force approach, whcih will often appear to work but will also stress the bolt past its yeield point. The threadlocker then sets, and when you come to unscrew it the bolt will shear. There is not in all honesty a great deal you can do to prevent this if youre vehicle has been brutalised in this way. The bolts have to come out, the application of some heat may soften the threadlocker and help, but remember that there are bearings and oil seals nearby, so you can't go wild with the oxy. If you do have one or more shear, it is actually surprisingly easy to drill them out and provided that you're careful you won't damage the thread in the hub (a left-hand spiral drill bit set is useful for this and these are now easily obtainable from Ebay etc). You can use the drive flange to centre and start the drilling. As a matter of personla preference, I no longer use any threadlocker on reassembly, I use spring washers instead (this method worked fine for the forst 50 years after all). Unless I know that the bolts have never been overtightened (ie it's a new vehicle) I replace them as a matter of principle but I use hex socket head bolts (what people incorrectly call "allen bolts") since these are grade 10.9 as standard and are much, much cheaper than the pre-loaded-with-thread-locker hex bolts from LR. There are also advantages on vehicles with spacers since with hex head bolts the corners of the heads can gouge the inside of the wheel; this cannot happen with hex socket heads. If you use gasket compound such as Hylomar on the drive flange (and there's no reason not to) use it very sparingly and take care to avoid it getting pushed into the bolt holes. |
||
|
16th Feb 2016 8:46am |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Not un-common to have to grind the front flanges off,use proper metal cutting discs,.Putting new (HD) back on was hard work anorl.I get the impression some front shafts twist over time, jamming the flanges on good and proper,coz there's no way they would fit them like that at the factory Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
||
|
16th Feb 2016 10:54am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
|
If the problem is getting the flange off the shaft, try using a decent sized two- or three-legged puller.
|
||
|
16th Feb 2016 11:35am |
|
| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
Thanks for the advice - I will get to it. So it sounds like standard practice to have to hammer the new ones on then?
Interesting theory on the twisted shafts - can see that being the case, there's play between the splines, so it's not like it's seized on, could well be the reason the thing doesn't just pop off (once the circlip is off of course  )
Cheers, Shane. |
||
|
16th Feb 2016 11:59am |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Problem is the flange is hard up against the face of the hub,otherwise you could use a chisel/wedge to prise it off.And they are that tight you'd probably damage the puller  . There also "chisel" proof,so a thousand good belts with a lumpy hammer still won't break them, you have to grind them "down to the bone" to get them off. Really does make me wonder how flanges manage to break whilst driving??? Have fun!
Also,out of curiosity, is it the N/S flange that is causing the (biggest  ) problem? That seems to be the most common side anorl. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
||
|
16th Feb 2016 12:06pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
|
Tap the flange (ideally using a brass drift) to rotate it with respect to the wheel, then you can get a puller behind the lugs of the flange.
|
||
|
16th Feb 2016 3:01pm |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
The flange has a "splined"shaft,so "tapping" it is irrelavant.You can hit the side of the drive flange at a 1000mph with a sledge hammer,it will not release the flange from the shaft!! Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
|
||
|
16th Feb 2016 3:39pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
|
But the shaft will rotate with the flange relative to the wheel.
|
||
|
16th Feb 2016 4:53pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
