 | Home > My Defender > Cupboard's 110: Nellie |
 
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971   
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Going marginally back on topic, I needed a new rear door switch because mine was missing and the wire was just flapping around aimlessly in the back.
This one from Beal fits and costs 45p: http://www.beal.org.uk/automotive/switches..._1932.html 
You just cut a couple of the noggins off the end but it all lines up perfectly. Since the last update I've fitted a tracker, done some more soundproofing and put some sidesteps on. Trying to decide what to do about a rear step and rear headlining now. |
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15th Mar 2015 4:07pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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When I bought the 110 it came with two keys but only one fob.
I've bought a replacement fob off these guys: http://www.remotekey.co.uk/land-rover/defender-2/ - the one with the built in key - and programmed it this afternoon. It really is as easy as they say, unlock door, open diagnostics hatch, plug in thingy, wait, unplug, done. This week I'll get the key bit cut, but I feel better knowing I've got a spare remote. I tend to keep the fobless key (it's a thin one) in my wallet in case I lock myself out which it's quite easy to do. On other topics, I had bought some rubber matting from Machine Mart to line the floor in the back, that's been cancelled as the rubber is just too stinky even when washed. I've for some PVC Foamboard (Foamex) on the way to make a headlining out of, and might try doing the floor in that too. Otherwise it will be Stokbord |
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31st May 2015 2:18pm |
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| CatherineF Member Since: 22 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 762
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We've got a similar situation and need a 2nd fob so will bare this in mind. 2015 Audi Q3 Quattro S Line Plus 184 TDI Stronic
2010 90 SMC Over Land Nero Edition - Santorini Black Metallic (Now Departed) |
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31st May 2015 3:49pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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This afternoon I fitted a small second battery in the back, behind the rear light cover.
I don't know if all Defenders have them, but there's an angled metal panel that you can put extra stuff behind right where the purple and black permanent live comes in. I've fitted a little 30A split charge relay the TEC3M (it says 30A on the box, but has two internal relays for fridge and charging rated at 20A each if you look inside) and a 7Ah AGM battery (http://cpc.farnell.com/leoch/lp12-7/12v-7ah-lp-series-agm-lead-acid/dp/BT0551106). Fuse, bit of wire and a DIN socket put in a rubber bung that was already there. It's snug, but the panel goes back on again fine. I've got a worklight that plugs in to the DIN socket and will eventually have some other things and interior lighting. I know it's not a big battery, but I'm slightly paranoid about using the main battery for anything other than starting. This little project has cost about £25 all in. DIN sockets are slightly smaller than a cigarette lighter socket, standard on tractors for powering low draw accessories and a lot more secure than a cigarette lighter socket. They clip in (rather than falling out all the time), are built to a common standard (which cigarette lighters don't seem to be) and will take up to 16A. |
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13th Sep 2015 7:52pm |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1860
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I know this goes back away, but just enjoyed reading our thread. Oddly my 110 went in the garage in reverse with a little bit of height to spare, but wouldn't go in forwards due to a lip between the garage floor and the drive (to keep the wet out) which the rear wheels went up first and as you know they roof slopes towards the front. Surprised me, I must say  |
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13th Sep 2015 8:08pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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finally finished off the back today
Two holes like this: Click image to enlarge became covered holes like this:
That's some aluminium sheet stuck underneath with 24hr Araldite, clamped in place and left for ages. It then had a bit of Silent Coat stuck in as a spacer before aluminium tape put over to seal it and the rivet holes:
And it now looks like this:
Which looks basically how it did when it came out of the factory 
The improvements are everything covered in a layer of Silent Coat (it's like Dynamat, bitumen layer with foil backing) and then that's covered by a sheet of wipe clean plastic. I'd bought the plastic to do the roof and the wheel arches, but there was enough left over to do the floor too. I don't expect it to last all the long on the floor because it's PVC foamboard and not that tough. But I had a perfect amount left over and it seemed a shame to waste it. The silver strips are two lengths of cargo rail from MUD, and mean I can actually attach stuff down in the back now which I couldn't before. I've also cut off the lower rear door seal that was ripped and rotted away (petrol spills or something maybe?) and now the rear door shuts much better. I was going to replace it, but what's left is working well now. Not that you can really see it, but the smashed up rear door card has been removed and I've make one out of some 1/2" ply with a fold down table. Two small hinges at the bottom edges and two lengths of old ratchet strap support the table when it's down. I used that rather than chain so it didn't rattle. Finally, that's a 4x4 Overlander / Nakatanenga Mk2 rear door struck and it's excellent. |
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1st Nov 2015 4:44pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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I haven't updated this thread because I haven't really done much!
I've half done the insides of the roof, there's a layer of Silent Coat covering about 80% of the panels then some 8mm sticky back silvered closed cell foam. The other half is on-going (slowly!) and will then be covered by a DIY foamboard headlining. Because a proper one is silly money.
I've also stuck on a strip of LED lighting down the centre bar and that's made a huge difference. Uses about 170mA and lights up the back really well. In the foreground of the picture you can just about see a bit of steel plate that I've stuck to the inside of the roof for mag-mounts. Once I've finished with the sound deadening and insulation you won't be able to tell it's there. Finally, just before Christmas the roof turned white. This is it yesterday after a wash before going in to the workshop for me to sear at the EGR valve:
At some point I'll get round to painting the wheels too 
If anyone has some suggestions as to how to make them white in an idiot proof way it would be appreciated  It's got to be cheaper than just buying a new set, because otherwise I'll just buy a new set.
Edit: one other thing. There is a slight crack at the point where the roof changes angle above your head. Anyone know why that might be? I've got some Captain Tolley's on the way to seal it up, I've been wondering where the water was getting in and have finally traced it to there after a session with the pressure washer. |
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14th Feb 2016 1:23pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10742 
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Finally i can put your landy to your forum name
and your face as well love the thread, hope to have more up dates now n then
Cheers Clayton. |
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14th Feb 2016 8:25pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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I've been meaning to post this for a while. Yes I know that the one labelled "light" doesn't line up, yes it does look that ridiculous in real life, yes I am annoyed about it, no I can't think of anything to do about it.
So that's controlling rear interior light (well, I haven't wired the switch in yet, the light is just piggybacking off the front one); the exterior scenelight and the socket on the right. They're all fed from the second battery (which is behind that panel). The "Remote" setting controls them from the rear wiper switch at the front as I don't have a rear windscreen wiper. I tend to leave the rear work light on "remote" and the socket on "off" which is handy for reversing, but if I wanted to temporarily put a beacon on and have that so when I stopped I could turn it on without getting out, then I can put the work light to off, the socket to "remote" and hey presto, switched from the front. Click image to enlarge And that's the rear interior light, it's an offcut of a sticky back strip from Lidl and it's ideal. I really can't see how it could do any better a job. You can see it's a much warmer light than the front one, I much prefer it. Also showing the storage net from Mud. I haven't entirely decided it's staying exactly like that but it seems good at the moment. Nice thing is I haven't had to drill any holes, it just hooks in to the existing ones. |
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18th Feb 2016 6:06pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10742
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Thanks for the up date on Nellie, the only thing i can think of, is cant you get another wire protector/cover and transplant all what you have put on it over to the new one, hope it helps
Clayton. |
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18th Feb 2016 8:17pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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Yes, I could do. I imagine it's quite an expensive bit though. Don't know really!
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19th Feb 2016 7:45am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10742
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What about one from a breakers yard, they must have loads of them knocking about
Clayton. |
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20th Feb 2016 10:26pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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Over the past few days I've been making a few bits and bobs. They're really exciting, and inspired by other threads, make good use of 3D CAD software.
By which I mean I used a ruler, a hacksaw and a file... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge That's one of them, the rest are in various stages of being assembled. So what is it? It's a bed support of course! The thing at the bottom is an offcut of cargo tracking that I have installed down the length of my Defender, and I've been using it to test stuff. There's a bit of 3mm mild steel, cut down to 19mm wide so it fits in the tracking (I could have used 1/8th*3/4" bar, but we had a little bit of 1/8th*1" lying around so I just used that and cut it down). The bar has been drilled out and tapped to M8, I'm waiting on some 6.8mm drills before I do the rest, then there's a mudguard washer, a locknut, and 21.5cm of threaded rod. That leaves it just short of level with the wheel arch boxes and will be (along with another 11) my bed legs. Woop! I have the channel and angle for the bed "frame", just need to get some more legs, rivets and some other bits and bobs. Click image to enlarge It's all 3/4"*1/8th", leaving 1/2" gap in the middle of the channel which 1/2" ply fits in to nicely. Annoyingly, it's just a little too tight for an M8 nut which you can usually use a 1/2" AF spanner on. |
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16th Mar 2016 6:07pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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I've finished the metalwork for the above now, just need to lay it all out and do the ply.
This week's project has been the compressor, which is all now installed in the battery box and working nicely: Click image to enlarge It's the larger T-Max, I've shoved a PCL fitting backwards up the rubber pipe as a sort of hose-tail, down to 6mm nylon, round the corner, through a Y, one leg goes to the pressure switch's dump valve (lets the pressure off when the compressor stops so it can start again easily) the other leg goes through a non-return valve in to the pressure switch's manifold. Without the non-return valve, as soon as the compressor shuts off the pressure on the delivery side is let out through the dump valve and the compressor has to start again. The air then goes out of the manifold in to some more 6mm nylon, to a female PCL and out to the suzie and to a tyre inflation gun (or whatever else because it's a standard fitting). I'd like to put a tank in, but we'll see how time goes with that one. It's been done very much on a budget, the tyre gun is an Aldi one that came with the suzie for £15 and the pressure switch is an ebay one. The pressure switch controls the internal relay in the compressor box so it's not actually switching any current. Currently you have to turn it off with the switch on the pressure control, but that will be run up to the dash where there's a spare switch already. FWIW, I haven't put a fuse in the control circuit because it's low side switching so if it shorts out the worst case scenario is the compressor runs. I am intending on adding a fuse to the compressor supply though, although there wasn't one originally. The compressor only fits in that way round and needs a little trimming off the base. Performance I'm happy with, my 7.50s deflate from 40 to 20PSI in just over a minute, and inflate from 20 to 40 in just under a minute. It's so much easier to use than the standard T-Max setup, you just clip on and go. As soon as you pull the trigger the pump starts, let the trigger off, the pressure builds and it cuts out. There's enough slack in the system that it doesn't cut out if you let off for a second to check what pressure you've got to, so I think that's about right. Other stuff... CB is wired in. That was interesting! I thought it would be really easy just connecting to the back of the lighter socket but there were miles and miles of terrible cabling behind the dash from the previous owner. It was an abomination. Some of it was for the rack-mounted work lights (that never worked even when I first got it), some was for a hands free system and some was for something involving buzzers and dis-connected multiplugs. All gone now and the radio reception has improved which is nice. It did take three evenings to do something I thought would take an hour or so. I was surprised that the worklights had a dedicated +ve feed but were piggybacking off the lighter socket's -ve. Seemed a bit dodgy to me. The holes in the roof are currently covered with white tape pending me finding some white bungs.
It's an Albrecht AE6110 which I came across here: http://www.4x4cb.com/public/item.cfm?itemID=1175 but actually bought elsewhere because they were out of stock. I have to say the chap running that site was extremely friendly and helpful in his emails and I'd definitely consider them in future. The aerial is the smallest I could find, and all the cabling is run inside the dash and to the back. You do need 4m cable almost exactly, which I found to my cost when Thunderpole sent me 3.9m and it didn't reach. However their customer service was also good and they sent me a short extension. The radio is stuck to the underside of the dash with Velcro, and I had to trim a little of the plastic away from the side of the steering wheel but nothing major and it will look fine if I ever remove the radio. The aerial once tuned comes back with an SWR of about 1.2 which I'm pleased with. Please excuse the picture background!
I've had it on and scanning for the past week whilst I've been driving, I've overheard one conversation in Italian (I think), someone re-transmitting the radio and something that sounded like someone was playing with a special effects unit on the really terrible echo setting. I assume it actually works
Edit: the reason the aerial is where it is rather than closer to the side is that there was a hole there already for the aforementioned non-functioning rack work lights and it seemed silly drilling another hole a couple of inches away. Edit2: I forgot to say that Nellie let herself down today. We've had 30mm rain in the part 24 hours and some of it had found it's way in to the passenger footwell  there were drips on the bottom of the dash plastic, but everything round the window and behind the dash seemed dry. |
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28th Mar 2016 5:09pm |
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