 | Home > Td5 > Identifying Bolts and Nuts |
 
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6601   
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Do you mean you want to find out the LR part numbers, or the generic type/size/dimensions?
 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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12th Feb 2016 2:07pm |
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| MGDM4 Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leeds Posts: 45
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Hi Martin,
Both would be great. I'll probably just buy the new parts from a hardware store. Matt |
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12th Feb 2016 2:51pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6601
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Have a look through the parts catalogue at http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228
It's image-driven so you should be able to find the right part. A lot of the generic bolts and screws have sizing listed against them so it's handy even if you don't buy the part from LR or a LR parts place. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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12th Feb 2016 3:03pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Click image to enlarge Bought one of these when I was sorting out all my accumulated collection of bolts - excellent bit of kit  |
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12th Feb 2016 3:08pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5107  
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If you are replacing floor panel bolts and seat box bolts go for stainless steel bolts you will not regret it. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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12th Feb 2016 4:00pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Short term no, especially if you intend to lift frequently, but long term, your panels will suffer:
Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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12th Feb 2016 4:26pm |
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| MGDM4 Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leeds Posts: 45
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I was planning on getting the replacement parts in stainless steel.
Why is it a bad idea? They don't rust and when smeared in copper grease they won't seize. Matt |
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12th Feb 2016 4:59pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
see the panel about and the two hole at bottom stainless bolts have cause this the corrosion by electrolysis.
 Last edited by dorsetsmith on 12th Feb 2016 8:05pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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12th Feb 2016 5:06pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5107
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A lot of information about this, but one of my Defenders is a 200 TDi that has had stainless steel bolts fitted almost everywhere and after twenty years I have no evidence of corrosion by electrolysis. Maybe I have just been lucky like thousands of others who fit them.
Original steel bolts will do as much damage in my opinion but are a  to release once rusted up and seized. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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12th Feb 2016 5:17pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Rather a bizarre argument, if you are saying that because it hasn't happened to you it should be ignored?
If you think plain steel bolts will do as much damage then you are scientifically ignorant. To be honest if this is the first time the OP has removed said panels then they have lasted 13 years. Give him the pros and cons and let him decide but don't say he won't regret it unless you plan to pay for new panels in 20 years if he then suffers. |
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12th Feb 2016 6:56pm |
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| Riccarton Member Since: 10 Aug 2015 Location: Gods' Own Country Posts: 280  
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My advice would be to get some decent quality ZP fasteners and put plenty of copperslip on them before installation. They'll be there as long as your chassis and will always come undone.
At work all we use is stainless fasteners of every type and size so it would literally cost me nothing to replace every one on my 90. But I haven't and won't so perhaps that tells you something
On the other hand - it's your LR and st st fasteners always look shiny - even if the rest of the car dissolves around them  |
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12th Feb 2016 8:39pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
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Some rather 'interesting' comments.
Aluminium does not rust however it will corrode. Aluminium oxide forms on the surface and to a certain extent can protect the underlying metal to a certain extent. Aluminium oxide in its worse case is a white powder Basically any two dissimilar metals are likely to set up a galvanic cell and cause corossion! Mild steel and aluminium will set up a galvanic cell as will stainless steel and aluminium. The difference is that stainless steel is further away from aluminium then mild steel is so any galvanic cell set up by stainless steel and aluminum will be a stronger cell then mild steel and aluminium On our 96 110 there is galvanic corrosion and there are no stainless bolts on it. The doors are steel frame and ali skin and shows signs of galvanic corrosion. Now throw salt into the equation, say from road salt or sea salt by being by the coast will make the electrolyte stronger and the galvanic effect stronger. This effect is also time dependent as well What can be done to stop galvanic corrosion? Stop it probably very little, however it can be slowed down. Ways of slowing it down? Electrical insulation such as plastic washers, use of anti corrosion paste such as Duralac. Please note that Duralac is an anti galvantic corrosion paste it is NOT an anti seize paste however for stainless nuts and bolts. Brendan |
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12th Feb 2016 9:47pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5107
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Yes probably I am scientifically ignorant and I bow to your superior knowledge. I also wish I knew what it feels like to be right all the time…  For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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13th Feb 2016 11:37am |
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| Ryderoo Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: South Oxfordshire Posts: 1666  
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gilarion, i am no Doctor or Professor, I think if you have taken precaution by using an industry standard anti corrosion jointing compound, your bolts should last. I have replaced all mine with stainless steel.
I think plain steel would have the same effects as it is a more noble metal than aluminium. And what happens in a few years when your the zinc coating on your bzp's fail. If you are happy with it and it had given you good service, why not recommend to another. For reference: Click image to enlarge Wow look at the zinc coated nut and bolt on the left. Is this still an "open" forum Cheers Simon I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you 1990 110 TD5 county, my first Land Rover - gone 2012 Discovery 4 XS SDV6 - gone 2014 Discovery 4 XS SDV6 - gone 2015 Evoque SD4 dynamic - Wife’s - gone 2015 Urban Truck 90 XS Santorini Black Hard Top - Reluctantly gone 2020 Discovery 5 Eiger Grey 3.0 SE - gone March 24 2021 Defender S D250 Santorini Black 110 HT - gone March 24 2023 Evoque P300e SE wife’s current vehicle |
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13th Feb 2016 12:29pm |
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