custom90steve wrote:

^^^ This is why I stuck to the light fittings only.
Providing you don't exceed the consumption of draw then you can do no wrong.
I tried to match the current draw as much as I could too but isn't easy as LED's draw so little power.

I want to do some work with mine but it doesn't stop raining so....

No need to worry about too low a draw

mcma1 wrote:

Ah just realised my mistake!! Yes I want these to come on if any door is opened, as there are 5 door switches in the 110 and only 2 interior lights, does that not suggest the 5 switched grounds come together somewhere?? It would save me having to tap into 4 switches if I could tap in somewhere else common to all the doors?? What do you think?

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!ALkeja...9C85C7C171

Yes, they do all come together.


Click image to enlarge

Up shot being that it doesn't matter which one you use because they're all connected together.

But please, please be careful!

I do not know what voltage the 10AS works at internally. It is entirely possible that it's 5V. I do not know how robust it's internal circuitry is, it's possibly great it's possibly not. If it's designed in the most cost effective way and uses a 5V pullup and logic, putting 12V to the input may well kill it.

There are three possible states for a digital input. High, low and floating. If an input is floating then depending on which way the wind is blowing or the sun is shining or which way you've rubbed your Defender the input could be on or off and that's not very helpful. So in input needs to be pulled to either on or off. Now we know that when you open a door it connects the circuit to ground, so therefore the default doors closed state would be floating with no other influence. Because we can't have a floating input in to the 10AS, there will be something in the 10AS pulling it to whatever voltage the 10AS wants on its input to register.

Say that's 5V. There will be a 5V power supply in the 10AS, run that through a 10k resistor and all the time the doors are shut you'll get 5V at the input (through the resistor) and the input will read high. As soon as you open the door that will be shorted to ground, you'll have a 0.5mA current flowing through the resistor to ground and the input will read low.

Now go back to the scenario of using that door switch circuit to power some extra lights. Right, so doors open, one side of the relay at 12V from the battery, other to 0V from the door, current flows, relay energises, lights on. Good. So we close the door, now there is a path from 12V through the relay to the input of the 10AS. Now there's nothing pulling the -ve side of the relay to ground, the -ve side will rise to the same voltage as the +ve side, that is 12V. Best case scenario is that it's built to cope but I don't know that. If it was me, I would hope that it would be fine but assume that it wouldn't be.

There is another issue with relays which is the voltage spike from the relay's magnetic field collapsing. That's really nasty for electronics that aren't expecting it. If you do go ahead with putting a relay in then please either use a relay with a diode, or fit a diode backwards across the control terminals. That will short circuit the relay in reverse so dissipate the energy stored in the field. In normal operation the diode won't conduct, but when you turn it off it can't spike if there's a suitable diode there.

To go back a step, what power are your additional bulbs and what are they doing? It will be much easier and probably less risky to just use the 10AS's output...

mcma1 wrote:

Ah just realised my mistake!! Yes I want these to come on if any door is opened, as there are 5 door switches in the 110 and only 2 interior lights, does that not suggest the 5 switched grounds come together somewhere?? It would save me having to tap into 4 switches if I could tap in somewhere else common to all the doors?? What do you think?

PaulMc wrote:

mcma1 wrote:

Ah just realised my mistake!! Yes I want these to come on if any door is opened, as there are 5 door switches in the 110 and only 2 interior lights, does that not suggest the 5 switched grounds come together somewhere?? It would save me having to tap into 4 switches if I could tap in somewhere else common to all the doors?? What do you think?

The driver's door switch is on its own wire (Grey/White trace), which goes back to C0061-5 in the 10AS unit's Grey connector.

The wires (Purple/Blue trace) from all of the other door's switches, are spliced together and go back to C0061-16 in the 10AS unit's Grey connector.


To add extra interior lamps, you don't need to wire anything to the door switches.

The door switches signal the 10AS unit to provide an earth path to the interior lamps on the Purple/White trace wire at each of the interior lamps.

So, to wire additional interior lamps to fade on and off with the factory fitted interior lamps, you should wire them to the interior lamps permanent live (Purple/Brown trace), and the interior lamps 10AS controlled earth on the Purple/White trace wire.

.

mcma1 wrote:

Don't leave me hanging guys or I will have to just use 4 9v batteries!

Use the Purple/White from the 10AS. It is a switched earth as Paul has said.

You will have to provide your own permanent 12V in the door.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW