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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Sankey Trailer conversion to overland trailer.
I was under a lot of pressure last year from the family after we started camping. The three kids and Wifey doll became hooked after a four day camping trip in Dorset. We had filled the Range Rover to the brim with the kids even having stuff on their laps, but luckily it was only an hours drive away.

I changed the Range Rover for a Defender 110, and decided if we were to continue camping, no way was I doing long trips to Scotland and the continent in the same manner we did the Dorset trip. Trawling the web and forums, it was clear that an overland trailer would be amazing - something to just connect to the 110, fill with fresh food and go. Bikes on top, kayaks on the roof of the 110, everything stored in the trailer ready for arrival to the camp site. The thought of this got me thinking, and also reading a lot of the forums like this one, there is a lot you can do with an overland trailer if it is kitted out correctly and after much consideration and thought I settled on the following level specification;

Water tank
240VAC System and hook up
12VDC System with batteries, and ability to charge from the 110, 240VAC and Solar
LPG Tank
LPG Stove
Fridge
Heater - LPG and 240VAC
Wifi access point (not my requirement, kids demanded it). with 4G access point
Roof bars for the bikes
Enough space for the tent and other camping gear, fishing gear, clothes for 2 weeks, food for 4 days, all the wet weather gear.
Tool box

The trailer will not have a tent built in. This is a great idea in theory, but the fact is we purchased a huge tent for the family, and feel we would be more comfortable in this rather than a roof tent. However, I am designing the trailer with resale (one day) in mind so the construction of the structure will be suitable for a roof tent should a future buyer want to do that.

I have never undertaken anything like this before. I am an Engineer and can design the hell out of this on paper, and could probably build most of this apart from any sort of welding works, but I will definitely need help with material selection and sourcing, as well as any recommendations for vendors to do certain works (such as Welding and fitting out the gas system etc).

Thanks to trackm90, I am now the proud owner of a Mk3 widetrack Sankey trailer. Tub is removed and on sale on ebay, and have measured the hell out of the chassis.


Click image to enlarge


I need to limit the height of the trailer so that the bikes on top do not ride too high, so I have increased the length of the trailer by about 1000mm. This give plenty of storage space and also enhances the ability to reverse this trailer successfully. Also added an extra longitudinal support on the 600mm stretch as well as some stiffeners top and bottom.

Original...

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Modified...

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After some quick and dirty analysis, the front was increased by 600mm, and the rear by 400mm. As the LPG tank will be right at the back, and the water tank just in front of the axle, this should give a nice balance and limit the tongue loading on the NATO hitch (decided to stick with the NATO hitch as I think it is more versatile and flexible when it comes to overlanding).

So, this is the start of my adventure. Chassis is going in on the 8th Feb for modification, and after this its blasting and painting time. I am trying to source two SVX alloys to match my 110, so will need to work out if they will fit or adaptors are needed (have a feeling adaptors and modification to the hubs are needed). Have ordered new discs (need machining) and pads, and am now working on the wiring plans for the trailer.

What I could do with is some advice on the following;

1. Trailer structure - GRP sandwich panels and aluminium frame - but where to get these and the extrusions?
2. Advice on ensuring logetivity of life.
3. Any pointers from people who have done this before? Pics would be welcome (have read most of the posts on Sankey Trailer conversions), but any pics not posted would be welcome.

Thanks in advance for all your advice and support. I hope I don't run out of enthusiasm with this project, as I think this will look and be very good providing I get it right.

Cheers
Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #498875 31st Jan 2016 10:24pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
I think you may be missing the point of the Sankey and your modifications to the chassis are in danger of destroying some of the key design elements.

Not saying you shouldn't do it, just making sure you are aware of it. I'm in the process of converting my own Sankey to an overland/camping trailer although I'm doing mine in two stages, the first stage is a simple one to integrate the tent, electric and fridge.

Anyway, back to my original point ! The real beauty of the Sankey is that it's geometry is optimised to suit the characteristics of the target towing vehicle (Defender 90). In practice this means that the trailer wheels follow the rear wheels of the Defender almost mm perfect regardless of the radius of the turn. This is primarily down to the distance between the hitch and the axle. As a result the Sankey is really well behaved off road as it follows the same line that the towing vehicle uses and, on road, manoeuvring it in tight spaces is very easy. One of the possible target areas for our next adventure will be the Pyrenees and having a trailer that "cuts the corner" on you would be a liability on tight mountain tracks.

The width of the Sankey tub matches the width of the tow vehicles tub and that makes it very easy to reverse using just your mirrors. When you look back you can see the line of the Defender bodywork and the line of the Sankey tub and it's very easy to see how it's sitting. Like all small trailers you need to use small steering inputs though. Pam has always struggled to reverse our caravan, for example, but can reverse the Sankey with very little problem. I'd suggest if you want to take it easier to reverse, make sure the sides of your trailer body is visible in both mirrors with some sort of reference points front and rear so you know when it's central and can react quickly to any deviation.

If towing with a 110 regularly you should lengthen the hitch to axle length to compensate for the longer overhang of the 110 so maybe your design changes will tie in with that a bit ? http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #498903 31st Jan 2016 11:29pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
Well I remember, as you are an engineer and might have more success than I have so far !

The MkIII Sankey has really impressive brakes (Granada Scorpio IIRC) and as a result the lack of an auto reverse on the overrun brakes has caused me some grief in the past. You simply cannot reverse these trailers up even the slightest incline without the brakes locking up solid and when the pintle has any weight on it you cannot engage the manual lockout.

It's not unusual for me to have to get out, put the trailer handbrake on, get back in and pull forward against the handbrake (to unload the pintle), get out and engage the override, release the hand brake and then, finally, get back in and start reversing ! A method for engaging the override from a switch on the dash would remove the only criticism I have when it comes to living with this trailer !

I've been playing with using a solenoid to activate the existing override and a couple of microswitches to give an engaged/disengaged signal on the dashboard. It could be linked into the reversing lights but if you're travelling down an incline you need to operate it while driving forward still to avoid any weight on the pintle. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #498906 31st Jan 2016 11:45pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thanks for the comments and advice.

Firstly, you are right about the increased turning circle. The increased length will increase the trailer turning circle and cause it to cut corners. However this is a small price to pay in my eyes for increased capacity of the trailer. The thing I did not mention is that I am not intending this to be used on hardcore offroad, but to tow to the campsites and some wild camping. I am still working on the 3D mock ups of how the trailer will look, so when these are done I will post and you will get a better picture of what I am trying to achieve. The distance between the trailer axle and the hitch is increased by 600mm, making more controllable when reversing. I found that the original wheel base was more of a challenge, and also spare wheel on the back of the 110 was perilously close to the front of the trailer when reversing and turning. This was the main driver in increasing the drawn length,

The brakes - I know what you mean. The solution i am doing is pretty much what you describe. There will be a 12v solenoid between the master cylinder and the calipers which will be activated when the reverse lights come on. This will stop the wheels locking when reversing. The brakes will return to normal when the reverse lights are off of course, allowing the brakes to do their job when travelling forward. I may change the spring loading in the overrun damper to suit the weight of the new trailer, as this will give better brake operation during normal use and loads. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #499551 2nd Feb 2016 2:15pm
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Boyd



Member Since: 11 May 2014
Location: Le Saint
Posts: 172

France 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
Have a look on Disco3.co.uk there are loads of rather amazing Sankey builds, particularly the like of Wiggs' and RLD's.

In fact, here's a couple of links....

Wiggs first;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic47201.html?highlight=wiggs

Wiggs second;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic108880.html

RLD's recent one;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic73463.html 2003 Zambezi Silver TD5 110 XS SW overland prepped....
2004 Santorini Black TD5 110 XS SW left hooker for sale!
2004 Alpine White TD5 110 left hooker (work in progress)
Post #499567 2nd Feb 2016 2:41pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7905

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Thanks for sharing build thread. I will be following with interest and envy!! Thumbs Up
Post #499698 2nd Feb 2016 9:10pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Struggling to find suitable extrusions
Can anybody advise me on where to get suitable aluminium extrusions etc? Struggling to find a vendor who has various angles and extrusions to hold 11mm or 14mm GRP board.

Anybody? My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.


Last edited by xpertoftheseas on 5th Feb 2016 8:18am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #500677 4th Feb 2016 11:04pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red

Click image to enlarge

Boyd wrote:
Have a look on Disco3.co.uk there are loads of rather amazing Sankey builds, particularly the like of Wiggs' and RLD's.

In fact, here's a couple of links....

Wiggs first;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic47201.html?highlight=wiggs

Wiggs second;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic108880.html

RLD's recent one;
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic73463.html

Was going to say give uncle Ray a call (RLD) or Wiggs they are the trailer wizards and Ray is a SH!!! Hot welder & Ade is the man for electronics and gadgets the latest being a electronic optics Rolling with laughter
Post #500679 4th Feb 2016 11:12pm
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RLD



Member Since: 29 Jun 2007
Location: Lancs
Posts: 858

United Kingdom 
http://www.simmal.com/ they may have what you need Whistle RLD fabricator of Hidden Winch Mount for D3/4 roof racks jerry can holders CB aerial mounts and much more and agent for Helsport Tents and gear
Post #500744 5th Feb 2016 8:36am
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Penguin



Member Since: 08 Dec 2014
Location: Tienen
Posts: 247

Belgium 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Chawton White
This is what I made of one:


Click image to enlarge




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Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge

 28/02 - Loss of a good friend...

In a time of chimpanzees, I was a penguin.
Post #500764 5th Feb 2016 9:36am
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10381

United Kingdom 
Have a look. On ExPo, there's months of reading to be done on here...

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/foru...n-Trailers


Search 'commercial trailer builders' for extrusions.there's plenty in the uk.

Good luck, keep the pictures coming.
Post #500771 5th Feb 2016 9:55am
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RLD



Member Since: 29 Jun 2007
Location: Lancs
Posts: 858

United Kingdom 
good site Thumbs Up RLD fabricator of Hidden Winch Mount for D3/4 roof racks jerry can holders CB aerial mounts and much more and agent for Helsport Tents and gear
Post #500773 5th Feb 2016 10:01am
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
xpertoftheseas wrote:
Thanks for the comments and advice.
The brakes - I know what you mean. The solution i am doing is pretty much what you describe. There will be a 12v solenoid between the master cylinder and the calipers which will be activated when the reverse lights come on. This will stop the wheels locking when reversing. The brakes will return to normal when the reverse lights are off of course, allowing the brakes to do their job when travelling forward. I may change the spring loading in the overrun damper to suit the weight of the new trailer, as this will give better brake operation during normal use and loads.


I was thinking of utilising the existing mechanical override and using a solenoid to operate it, I think the idea of using a solenoid in the brake circuit is a much better one though, now you've mentioned it. Have ordered a suitable solenoid from the US, couldn't find a UK supplier for some reason. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #500971 5th Feb 2016 7:12pm
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alwoodley72



Member Since: 14 Mar 2010
Location: salisbury, wilts
Posts: 724

England 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alaska White
Hiya, try Wessex Vehicle Services, down the road from me at Compton Chamberlayne, quite a big concern so I'm sure they'll help you out?..

Cheers. Alex 98 300 tdi 90 project
94 Range Rover vogue 4.2 lse
79 911 sc
08 130 double cab utility
Post #501009 5th Feb 2016 8:00pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
This is great stuff!! Thank you all Bow down , please keep it coming. After trawling the expeditionportal website, I am drooling over the amount of ideas I got from there. Its going to take a night or two to digest but already I have changed the chassis design to accommodate some new bits and pieces I want.

Overview...

Click image to enlarge


Rear with door down

Click image to enlarge


Chassis Mods..

Click image to enlarge


Prepping the chassis this weekend (removing lights, brake lines etc) ready for cutting and welding, then blasting and painting. New discs and pads arrived, need to get new shocks and wheel bearings (I don't suppose anybody knows the bearing type and/or number for the MK3?)

The guy who purchased the tub was very helpful as he had refurbished his MK3 chassis years ago (Thanks Colin!) - big help!

Need to start clearing the garage for when the chassis comes back so I can really get my teeth into it.

Thanks again to all who are posting. I really do appreciate any and all ideas and advice.

Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #501025 5th Feb 2016 8:25pm
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