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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10733

England 
agree with all that measuring db950 Bow down
Post #497163 27th Jan 2016 9:03pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Definitely big on measuring a dozen times before cutting anything, especially with build tolerances as they are it can look different every time you measure.

For instance, laying out the seat retaining bracket in the centre of the floor... the actual tub floor has an additional; 1/8" gap on one side between the edge of the floor and the fender... so... the middle of the floor panel isn't really the middle of the floor... Laid down masking tape, laid it all out, measured, checked, walked away for 5 minutes, came back to to re-look at it... and hmmm.. why isn't this the centre this time round... Shocked LOL... it's all about not rushing the process, and test fitting EVERYTHING before drilling, cutting or doing anything of a permanent nature. (Oh, and like chess, you have to anticipate what you are going to have to deal with three steps ahead).

Another thing (it's really a local thing being half way around the world) is you REALLY need to plan ahead, because if you need a little part at the last minute, you can't nip down to the corner dealer and get one... you have to order, and wait almost 2 weeks... again.. planning ahead, right? Dealers here don't have access to ANY off market parts.. if that model wasn't sold here by a dealer, they can't even get access to it from the UK.

Keeps it interesting Laughing it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #497170 27th Jan 2016 9:16pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10733

England 
it sure does keep it interesting for you and yes, i like chess as well Thumbs Up always thinking ahead Thumbs Up

Clayton.
Post #497174 27th Jan 2016 9:24pm
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db950



Member Since: 01 Feb 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 560

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Planning ahead for parts is a pain, you just never know what your going to uncover!! But being so far away adds even more pressure to cover all bases, looks like your doing a good job with parts though.

I did a full nut and bolt restoration on mine a couple of years ago and ordering parts was a nightmare, finding part numbers then finding they had been superceeded, finding reliable suppliers with a choice of makers.......all part of the fun!!
Post #497183 27th Jan 2016 9:39pm
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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 720

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Great progress cdn38 Thumbs Up lots of love going into this project. In the end having read the article about your truck, the investment is worth every penny Wink MY15 Aintree 110 SW - for sale - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic82781.html
MY16 Santorini 90 HT - sold
Post #497574 28th Jan 2016 8:25pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Lots of love, and a little insanity... I can certainly tell you where to find all the corrosion on a 110 Td5, thats for sure!

Spent the evening in "wire cup hell" it's tough going, laying on the floor trying to get into all the spots. It was like a rust shower while cramped under the rear axle.

Actually not as rusty as I thought on the frame where the tank was, but the brackets for the body mounts have lots of surface rust. Doing the Dinitrol with the tank out is going to be a HUGE advantage in saving the under floor supports, and accessing some of the harder to reach areas.



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


I hadn't originally planned on doing the whole frame in POR 15, but once I treated a small area under the rear seat, I realized it would be so worth putting in the time and effort to do the whole frame. Anything I can't access, will be covered with Dinitrol. I realize I am adding YEARS of life to the frame with the work going into it.

I may drill out and replace the steel rivets with stainless bolts on the cargo floor that are corroding. Stainless bolts with a lick of anti corrosion paste should do the trick. Just adding more life to it is the idea.

The problem is,... where do you stop???? it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #497604 28th Jan 2016 9:01pm
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adseybear



Member Since: 08 Oct 2009
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 260

Canada 
it'll never stop! 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green - "Betty"
1958 Series IIA 109 Station Wagon - "Randolph" - Awaiting Restoration
2019 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon - SOLD
2006 Volvo V70 D5 - Ocean Race Edition, SOLD
2003 VW Passat Estate 1.9TDI - SOLD
2008 BMW 320D M Sport Estate - SOLD
2001 Defender 90 Td5 Hard Top - SOLD
Post #497683 29th Jan 2016 7:55am
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 326

United Kingdom 
Loving this build. I have a full set of di nitrol for my td5 110 but mine is a van back. I think I will pop the tub off to get to all the chassis rails. Engine is coming out again soon so I will paint the frame rails in the engine bay. Can't wait to have the space to work on mine indoors, just need to find a house with enough land to build a decent shop.
Post #497793 29th Jan 2016 11:58am
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
These Matt Lee beauties arrived today... I'm going to have the grey coating burnt off, then sand blasted and re-coated satin black.



Click image to enlarge
 it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #498142 30th Jan 2016 12:49am
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 326

United Kingdom 
They are going to look good Bow down
Post #498313 30th Jan 2016 6:11pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Productive day today! After spending last night and this morning doing the frame cleaning on all the rear portion I managed to get all the metal prep done as well. The POR 15 metal prep works really well. It leaves a zinc phosphate coating on any bare metal to help the coating adhere.


Click image to enlarge


On to test fitting the rear seats. Yesterday, my Hofele seat spacers arrived Thumbs Up (I knew I would eventually want them, why not just do it now and get it over with?) Set everything up, bolted it all in and the seats line up perfectly with the retainer brackets in the rear floor (yup, measured it right!)



Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge



Now it's time to mark up for cutting away the drop on the inner fender for seat clearance. So, out come the seats, cut, fabricate, install, finish bolting in the brackets, bolt in the underfloor support, drill and install the upstand... (sounds easy if you say it fast). Oh, and the side frame should be ready from galvanizing Moday... PLUS i need to put on the POR 15 final coat too!! It's going to be a busy week. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #498507 31st Jan 2016 8:34am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Looking good. Am I right in thinking the later type rear seats fit lower than the bench seat originals? I have looked at many pictures but never say in the back of a puma to work it out. 2002 110 td5
Post #498512 31st Jan 2016 8:57am
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Nidge



Member Since: 27 Jan 2008
Location: Kildare Ireland
Posts: 817

Ireland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Cairns Blue
Nice work there Scott, chassis looks good, way better than mine Confused
And POR 15 is the way to go....been using it on my rebuild and find it great.
Only downside is if you buy the large tin and don't use it within a week or so it goes rock hard in the tin.... I only buy the smaller tins now

Nidge.
Post #498514 31st Jan 2016 8:57am
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Jimb1978 wrote:
Looking good. Am I right in thinking the later type rear seats fit lower than the bench seat originals? I have looked at many pictures but never say in the back of a puma to work it out.


I was lucky enough to sit in the back of a Puma at the Factory Tour in November (no Pumas here to test out Crying or Very sad) The seat felt very upright, and at almost 6'3" legroom was tight. I think the bottom of the seat may be slightly higher off the floor, but the seat bottom is also thicker, so you sit higher up.

Looking at the seat spacers, it just seems to make sense to recline the seat a bit, making it more relaxed. As soon as I got the single seat in, I hopped up on it and took a break Mr. Green . Although there was no floor, it was a good feeling to sit, and the back of the seat still has and bout 2" to drop yet. I think it's going to be pretty good.

Curious about seat height though, I'll have to measure it against a bench seat. The spacers look like they have given me more room for my Focal iBus sub, and and amp... (always thinking too far ahead for my budget, but I have had the sub on the shelf for 6 months waiting to do this). As for an amp, I may bring out my old school Alpine V12 that I have had in the closet for about 12 years. It just might fit! it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #498523 31st Jan 2016 9:11am
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db950



Member Since: 01 Feb 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 560

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
That Hofele seat spacer looks great, didn't know you could get that. The seats are far too vertical, the kids are always moaning!!
Did you order direct from them, is it expensive.......do I have to look at making own!!?


Edit......Found a supplier in the UK, not too bad a price!
Post #498792 31st Jan 2016 7:43pm
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