 | Home > My Defender > CDN 038's Niagara Grey 110 Td5... ongoing upgrades |
 
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729   
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Hi Patrick,
I have seen that video. Absolute rubbish! The rear seats need to be mounted to the frame of the vehicle, no exception. It's not safe. The Puma seats also sit taller than the standard Td5 bench, so lifting them puts the passengers up into the roof. Look at his position when he gets into the seat, far too upright and he has to stoop to get in or out of the door.. How he mounted his seat is just un-safe. In an accident, the seat mounts could easily tear through the floor. Not to mention the weight of the seat and 3 occupants (could be as much as 700 lbs for 3 adults and the seat) is being carried by the thin aluminum floor. Biggest issue with putting in the Puma rear seats is you need to change to a different anchor frame that is bolted to the top of the vehicle frame. There isn't enough access to this, and another point where the rear retaining frame of the seats is bolted down. The answer to gain access is removing and replacing the rear upstand. All the parts are available from YRM. As well, that front wheel well angle needs to be lowered which is a bit of a job. Upstand http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epage...ID=2622245 End caps http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epage...s/108-0001 Underfloor support http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epage.../117A-0001 Once you remove the floor and old upstand (which is probably corroded anyhow) you can replace the existing anchor with this: Mid crossmember http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epage...ducts/053B Then you need 2 x AQR710290 which are the rear seat reinforcements that bolt to the frame as well. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/1414...upport_def Next, you will need to cut away and lower the front of the wheel well sections, as the bottoms of the Puma seat are thicker, and sit lower. (I'll be doing that in a couple weeks, stay tuned). The seats I picked up used and shipped over from the UK along with a set of Puma doors which will be going on soon. The seat (which should come with the rear floor mount) should run somewhere around £800-£1,000 I know it seems like a lot of work, but the other install option... lift the tub. Add to that, if you are in a Td5, there is probably a fair amount of corrosion on your upstand where the current rear seat bolts down, but it's hidden under the carpet. This option is safe and secure, and lets you repair some corrosion, all at the same time. |
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7th Dec 2015 6:20pm |
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| Justtellme Member Since: 23 Nov 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 310 
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Super!
I'll be tuning in for your upcoming posts! Patrick |
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7th Dec 2015 6:47pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Today was a turning point. I actually put something ON then truck. I had ordered a new ignition lock some time ago, and barrels for the new doors so I would have one common key. It's been sitting on my shelf for months, and I decided today was the day. Not a difficult job, other than dealing with the shear bolts that hold the bottom of the lock in place. Didn't take long to get them sorted, and it was done. I feel like it's a turning point, from here. it's more things to go on.
 Click image to enlarge After close inspection of the removed side frames, I decided it may be better to order new and galvanize, rather than to re-build the existing. Starting from new, you know it's going to be 100%. Plus having to re-build both B and C pillars, I know it could be a huge undertaking to get perfectly straight. There was quite a lot of corrosion on the sills and some of the joints had opened up quite a bit. For the cost, I think new was the way to go. They arrived today, crated up and in good condition. Click image to enlarge I'm going to take them to have the E coat stripped off tomorrow, and then galvanized. Just to be safe, I test fitted both, in and out like a breeze. Absolutely perfect fit, all the bolt holes lined up, fit to the rear body was bang on. Going new was definitely the way to go. Click image to enlarge |
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17th Dec 2015 6:25am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10818 
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looking good, best part of the build now, is to put stuff on
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17th Dec 2015 9:27pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Just a little bit of progress today. My NAS rear bumper was ready at the metal strippers. They had to burn off the coating, and then blast off the galvanized coating so we can cut out the bent tube on the right, and weld in a new one.
Also going to remove the ladder tab on the left, and replace it with a jacking point on either side. Click image to enlarge Perfect fit to the frame for the bracing, but I'll need to do a bit of work on the cross member, only 2 bolt holes line up on the bottom, I'll have to drill and insert nuts for the other 2. Click image to enlarge |
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23rd Dec 2015 2:52am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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It's taken until the 3rd day of the year to get anything done, but I have been busy packing up for a 1 week vacation in Mexico. Did manage to FINALLY cut away the upstand, remove the old seat crossmember, underfloor support and scale some of the rust away.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The new galvanized Puma crossmember fits perfect. I'm going to have it powder coated with some other bits while I'm away. Click image to enlarge LOTS to do when I get back, it's going to be full steam ahead! Before fitting any of the new parts, I think I will wire brush all the exposed rusty sections and give it a good coating of POR 15. These should be arriving an about a week... Click image to enlarge Found them on eBay after a tip posted here on eBay & Bargain spots. Sold the tyres over there in the UK, which makes shipping the 5 rims over much less expensive. Never thought I would get to own an actual set of Matt Lee's Once they get here, I'm going to have the grey coating burned off, sandblast them and powder coat them a nice satin black  |
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4th Jan 2016 1:10am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Make sure you fit the two mountings for the rear seat bracket while the upstanding is cut away so you can bolt or weld it on easily. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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4th Jan 2016 9:16am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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I won't forget that one! It's kind of what started this whole adventure. I wanted new Puma rears, and the only way to really get back there for the supports was to do the upstand. Then once I noticed the corrosion in mine, it was obvious that it HAD to be done (justification for SWMBO...)
It's just kind of ballooned from there. While Im at it, may as well do this, and this and that and so on and so on.... |
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4th Jan 2016 2:33pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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On to the drivers side toe box... The rust on the toe box hadn't gone through the second later of steel, but why wait? It had rusted through the first layer, right at the point where the inner wing bracket was welded on. Years of leaves, pine needles and crud had piled up on top of the bracket, and started to eat away at the steel as shown in a photo a couple posts previous.
Drilled out the spot welds, cut out the mid and lower lower sections of the panel, ground away to clean steel. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Using a section of the YRM 004A repair panel, the piece was trimmed and test fitted, then tacked in place. Click image to enlarge Welded into position through the original spot weld holes. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Welded on the new footwell to innerwing bracket (YRM168), and 2 tabs on the inside to retain the insulation panel. Click image to enlarge A thorough coating of PPG DP90 2 Part Epoxy primer went on all the exposed bare metal. Going to seal up all the seams this weekend... PROGRESS |
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15th Jan 2016 4:18pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Put in a couple full days over the weekend. Used a heat gun and scraper to remove all the remnants of old undercoating from the frame. It was a challenge as the material was a hard tar like substance, and coverage was spotty. Once a little heat was applied, it peeled of. Need to have a 100% clean surface for POR 15 paint and Dinitrol. Went over the entire frame with POR 15 cleaner degreaser and a scothchbrite pad, then full treatment of POR metal prep.
Click image to enlarge Replacing a tube on the NAS res bumper has thrown a curve ball at me. 45mm tubing isn't availabe here, and 1.75" is just little too small. So, went with a thicker walled pipe with a larger O/D and same I/D and had it machined down to 45mm.
Click image to enlarge Once that is all welded in place and completed, 2 tabs with hi lift jack points will be welded in, then it's off for galvanizing. |
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18th Jan 2016 5:26pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808 
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Keep up the good work
You Americans and your imperial sizes  2002 110 td5 |
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18th Jan 2016 7:05pm |
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| BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 714  
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^^^
don't know if that last comment will go down too well with the OP  |
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18th Jan 2016 7:09pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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The Yanks (Americans) are on imperial. Us Canadians have been metric since the mid 70's. But with our biggest trading partner being the US, most of the materials we have available are still in imperial.
Go to the lumber yard, and we are still buying a 2x4, and a sheet of photocopy paper is still 8.5" x 11" not A4... go figure. But everything in the grocery store is sold by the kg. or litre. Temperature is in C, distance in KM. Yeah, it's messed up. |
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18th Jan 2016 7:19pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808
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 just spotted the location and flag in your profile 2002 110 td5 |
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18th Jan 2016 7:40pm |
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