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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Defender for 6 weeks - my questions to the pro's
So I have had the 110 now for 6 weeks. Apart from enjoying it immensely, I find that I have a lot more confidence in its abilities compared to the many RR's I have owned. I do have some questions, comments and maybe some concerns;

1. Engine temperature takes an age to get to the mid point. I can safely do 10 miles, or 30 mins driving before the gauge is even showing above minimum. I know it is cold lately, but for this size engine in this size car, I would expect the coolant temp to rise a lot quicker.
2. 3/5 Doors require a good slam to ensure they fully close.
3. Of all the cars I have owned - this is the only one I would say that actually needs a remap. In progress...
4. First gear is so short - you have to plan your exits accordingly. However it is clear why this is.
5. After switching engine off (which is the smoothest idle to off I have ever seen on a diesel by the way) there is some ongoing noises under the bonnet for about 10 seconds afterwards. Any ideas?

Just fitting a new adjustable tow bar from Dixon Bate long with converting to 13 pin for my new expedition trailer project.

This is a great community with many knowledgable people here. Thanks to any and all who are involved.

Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #493680 18th Jan 2016 2:05pm
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camelman



Member Since: 27 Feb 2013
Location: Peak District
Posts: 3372

United Kingdom 
My 2.2 (MY2015) also takes forever to heat up. I've had it back at the main dealers twice and they are adamant there is nothing wrong. Running my torque app I can keep an eye on the exact coolant temperature. Some mornings it does take 10 miles to get up to 85-90deg, mainly on A roads and thru town. Once I get to the motorway it gets up to temp pretty quick.
I've had 3 other pumas (2.4 and 2 x 2,2) and I'm fairly sure they didn't take this long. I'm dropping it in at an Independant garage next week for a 2nd opinion.

Doors, yep my 2 rear doors need a good slam to shut first time Smile

Remap - Had mine done to 170 bhp, (although I'm not sure it's 100% necessary, it does make it nicer to drive although still not that quick. 0-60 is around 12-13 seconds.

Post switch off - yep, there are various threads on here about what goes on after you switch off, usually referred to as 'chukka chukka' 
Post #493682 18th Jan 2016 2:13pm
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Need to sell |Defender for a Ford Fiesta.. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #493686 18th Jan 2016 2:17pm
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rustyboxx



Member Since: 08 Oct 2012
Location: Poole
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Montalcino Red
I have the same temp issue on my 2.2.

Did a 4 mile journey this morning in average town traffic conditions and watched the temp sit happily at 46c. Heater output was luke warm at best. My 2.4 doing the same journey would have the heater at leg scalding temp.

I think a trip to the dealer and getting them to check the engine thermostat is required as the temp does seem rather low. 2015 90 XS CSW TDCi - Beautiful
2007 110 XS DCPU - An itch that needed scratching
2005 90 Td5 XS CSW - Utterly brilliant
2001 Discovery 2 ES Auto - A phase I went through
1996 90 Tdi CSW - Uber reliable
1989 90 2.5 Petrol Hardtop - My first proper Landy
1985 Range Rover Vogue V8 -Troublesome
Post #493698 18th Jan 2016 2:48pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2227

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
The noise after switch off is most likely the electrically operated egr valve doing a 'clean' cycle.

Not hugely familiar with the 2.2 in the defender but am familiar with the slightly older version in fords and jaguars. In which case it is worth looking if the water pump has a small black plastic elbow near the top. If so then this is actually a second thermostat which controlls coolant flow to the oil cooler. In jaguars in particular this thermostat can fail which slows warm up substantially and engine rarely reaches temp. My 2.2 xtype used to drop back off the cold end of the gauge on the motorway until i swapped it.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #493702 18th Jan 2016 2:59pm
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LEZ



Member Since: 22 Oct 2015
Location: London
Posts: 167

United Kingdom 
Xpertoftheseas - I had the same problem with my new 90 Landmark, I had to 'slam' the drivers door really hard so that it closed. Took it to the dealers and the mechanic adjusted the catch in 2 minutes, its now fine. Suggest you don't live with the faults, just persevere with the dealer. Good luck.
Post #493735 18th Jan 2016 4:48pm
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Orangesofa



Member Since: 10 Oct 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 214

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
My 2013 takes between 7 and 8 miles of A/B road driving to get the temp to the mid-point where it sits for the rest of my journey. This has been consistent when the outside temp has been sub 5 deg.

My doors need a bit of a slam but I have put it down to air pressure. If I crack a window open an inch and try it again and it shuts neatly and easily first time. i might have a look at the alignment just in case I am missing a trick. Phil
Post #493743 18th Jan 2016 5:19pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Wow - Many thanks to all of you for the quick and detailed replies! It is very much appreciated.

Looks like a trip back to the dealers to take advantage of the factory warranty. Will get back and reply once completed.

Again - you guys are amazing - thanks for all the advice.

BR
Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #493773 18th Jan 2016 6:09pm
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JAY BOY



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: Not here
Posts: 1706

Wales 
Hi

My 2.2 is the same with temperature. i went for a drive yesterday and it was ok after about 5 miles. stopped to get it washed and in the 10 mins i was there with the engine running the temp dropped to cold and the heating was luke warm at best. Looks like there all the same. Get he doors looked as mine passengers door was bad and they sorted it out on a warranty visit.
You don't mention and leaks your one lucky man Thumbs Up
Post #493906 18th Jan 2016 10:06pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Adjusting the door latch really is childs play and hardly worth the diesel to get to take it to a dealer but bear in mind that the door seals will be stiffer in the cold which obviously has an effect on how hard you have to slam the door. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.


Last edited by Happyoldgit on 19th Jan 2016 4:33pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #494025 19th Jan 2016 11:37am
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
try not slamming the doors from 45 degrees, just pull them to about 25 - 50mm and then giving a purposeful tug. slamming like you would a car doesn't work.
Post #494050 19th Jan 2016 1:09pm
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andydef90



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 617

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
mines the same they cool down quick I adjusted my doors a little myself not hard to do enjoy your defender welcome to a fantastic world
Post #494062 19th Jan 2016 2:06pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3784

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Nevillerover wrote:
try not slamming the doors from 45 degrees, just pull them to about 25 - 50mm and then giving a purposeful tug. slamming like you would a car doesn't work.

Absolutely correct,...Defender doors are "different".
We find that when closing when leaving the vehicle, a short sharp purposeful "push" from around 12" (from closed position) whilst holding, pushing, & maintaining pressure on the door handle will do the job, similarly, when closing from inside, a short sharp "pull" from around 12", maintaining pulling pressure on the door handle will again do the job.
Slamming does not work,..except to damage your doors.
Pickles.
Post #494190 19th Jan 2016 9:08pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
A bit more on this subject....
So... this morning it was -4c here. I went out to the Defender and pushed the remote to open the doors, got in and started the engine to get the windows cleared whilst I loaded the kids. Noticed that the doors had locked automatically. Stopped the engine and removed the keys, and pushed the open button again and the doors unlocked. Thinking I must have pushed the button by accident, I started the Defender again and got out and shut the door - only to hear the central locking lock the doors! So - engine running and all doors locked with nobody inside, with three kids complaining that they were cold and to let them in.

With my already fried brain, along with the -4c temperature, I was beginning to wonder what I was going to do. Please remember that I have had Range Rovers for years, and it did not dawn on me to use the spare key to open the drivers door (for those that do not know, there are no keys/locks on the recent Range Rovers except under a little piece of plastic which you forget about - which I did). Took me 20 mins to realise.. which I am sure many of you will find amusing. By that time I had loaded everyone in the Leaf and was ready to leave.

So - eventful morning. The afternoon was not so eventful, but it did highlight my concern with the engine temp. This is the gauge after 25 mins and 8 miles of B roads.


Click image to enlarge


I stopped to wait for the kids to come out of school, and left the engine running whilst I sat in the car aiming for a winning bid on a Dixon Bate pintle hitch (which I won for £46 - not such a bad day after all). I was in the car for maybe 10 mins - engine running... and the gauge looks like this...


Click image to enlarge


Bare in mind that these pics were taken 15 mins apart, engine on idle with heater fan on 1 (full heat). 4c outside temp.

Defender is booked into Westover LR next week for them to look at and sort this and the door issue out. They can also look at the central locking issue also.

I still love it... just not going to clean it as punishment.

(Just in case the sharp eyes see the difference in the diesel level - I was parked on a hill the first pic, and second pic I stopped 30 meters up the road on the flat when I remembered to take another photo)

Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #494225 19th Jan 2016 10:01pm
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camelman



Member Since: 27 Feb 2013
Location: Peak District
Posts: 3372

United Kingdom 
Your temperature illustrations are almost identical to those I'm seeing (and a few others on here by the sounds of it).
Mine's been back in twice for it and they are saying there is no problem, they want it back in again for a day but don't know if I can be ar5ed to go through the whole carry on again, will stick it in at the indies next time I'm in there.

Yeah the central locking can do that when it's cold, I've had it do it on a couple of them now, something to do with the actuators freezing up I believe. Dealer sorted it both times. 
Post #494366 20th Jan 2016 11:28am
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