 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > DIY wet sanding using a Karcher power washer? anyone done it |
 
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745  
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Hello
In preparation of sanding down a Sankey trailer I'm looking at options for shot blasting etc to get rid of all the military paint, ready to rust protect and repaint, I've had quotes to sand blast at £300 my time is free so I'm happy to give it a go. plus the gadget could be used for other stuff... I've read it can use a fair bit of sand mind... http://www.amazon.co.uk/K%C3%A4rcher-Sand-...B000BFNAYC Anyone tried it? other options? ideas? Thanks |
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13th Jan 2016 9:11pm |
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| JAY BOY Member Since: 04 May 2010 Location: Not here Posts: 1706 
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Not done it but it looks really good have you tried Youtube
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13th Jan 2016 9:17pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2211 
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Stacey
Did you get the trailer you wanted and fix out your towing options ? Pics please |
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13th Jan 2016 9:32pm |
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| JAY BOY Member Since: 04 May 2010 Location: Not here Posts: 1706
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That looks ok to me, it should work on most karchers i would think
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13th Jan 2016 9:38pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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Keith,
I have sorted a hitch (thanks to a forum member) its fitted but temporally as its the wrong height etc but I had a month to collect the trailer and then a text to say he needed it moving in the week. I've a sliding drop plate hitch on order so hopeful fit the std ball and the nato on a removable plate. Current hook is:-  Click image to enlarge I've de-greased it and plan on painting it black carefully so it blends in a bit more 
The trailer is :- I will post more when I have it... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge List of things I need to do / learn / fix / try / etc etc... 24v to 12v, etc Hopefully as we get lighter nights...soon I will be out messing with it ! keep be busy... Last edited by Stacey007 on 13th Jan 2016 10:00pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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13th Jan 2016 9:53pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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duplicate post
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13th Jan 2016 9:53pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
I believe there are issues with using sand or glass to strip paint off "delicate car bodywork",using bicarbonate of soda is usually recommended.Alternatively you could use paint stripper ,but NOT Nitromors or any "domestic" paint stripper.A specific car paint or industrial stripper would be best,Starchem also gets good reviews.
Nitromors isn't good for much these days...so it seems. Also "wetsanding" is totally different to "wetblasting",  .
http://www.frost.co.uk/search/?q=stripper&...wgodCyIEew Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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14th Jan 2016 12:05pm |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 
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I bought a Karcher sand blasting kit as per the OP ages ago, I got it to try to strip the paint on a dilapidated garage door, never really had much luck with it TBH.
It depends on the sand being completely dry to flow up the pipe under a vacuum created by a Venturi in the water jet, the problem I found was that although it worked initially, when I stopped the jet, some of the water would run back down the pipe and into the bucket of sand, once the sand was wet the job stopped and I went back to elbow grease. |
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14th Jan 2016 12:24pm |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 999
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The problem with sand etc on the panels is, I believe, the heat build up can warp the panels. An experienced blaster should be able to avoid that and change medium to suit.
Bicarbonate is good and can even be used on glass and rubber - but that gives an idea into its shortcomings .... It's so gentle that if you've thick paint it is very slow and thus expensive. I tried it on my blaster at home and it was good but not really suited to home use I think - it needs a lot of effort to keep the air dry and once wet I s in the Soda it's knackered. Even condensation is a real problem. |
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14th Jan 2016 12:56pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Ah memories of stripping umpteen layers of military paint off of various bits and vehicles. TBH these days I just couldn't be @rsed with the mess and aggro, I'd cough up the money and let someone else do it. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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14th Jan 2016 1:08pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Also hard "medium" creates pits in the metal.Thick,high build primer MAY cover it. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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14th Jan 2016 1:10pm |
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| Rosco Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Burntwood Posts: 1833 
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The guy who painted mine also did most of the prep, bearing in mind I'd already gone over it with an industrial steam cleaner and then sanded it with electric sander, used one of these
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/115mm-dia-...e-rust-re/
There layers of paint soon ruined the abrasive wheel but he got a better finish then I had left him with. 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone 2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone 2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW |
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14th Jan 2016 1:36pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17336 
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I am a big fan of wet-blasting since the advantages over traditional (dry) blasting are many and significant. I find it very, very hard to believe that a £50 accessory for a pressure washer is worth bothering with, though, since all it will be is a slightly "scratchy" pressure wash.
A proper wet-blaster is as far removed from a Karcher with a pick-up tube as a Defender is from a roller skate! One huge difference is that the energy for the wet blast process is provided by compressed air, which you won't get at all with the Karcher. (A wet blast actually uses air to blast damp abrasive, it does not use water to blast the abrasive). My Quill Falcon wet blast machine requires a massive compressor - a four tool road-tow compressor is sufficient, a two-tool is not really sufficient. If you do buy one of these, please do feed back how well it works, I would be really interested to know. I don't think it will be very impressive, though. Incidentally, if you want the best possible adhesion for new paint on steel, wet blast the surface to clean it, let it dry thoroughly (doesn't take long), treat the surface with an acid wash, then rub lightly with a Scotch pad, then prime, undercoat and overcoat in the usual way with the required number of coats. The adhesion will exceed oil industry standards. |
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14th Jan 2016 1:50pm |
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