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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Almost went for the 'frequently bought together ' option only you can see through the eye protectors so no good.

Razz

Joking aside is it possible a faulty cht sensor could cause over fuelling even when the engine is hot?
Post #490814 10th Jan 2016 10:33pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686
Use the ultragauge I gave you and check the rail pressure at start up (also what the tickover rpm is, should be spot on 800rpm when warm). Then check it once the vehicle warms up (89 C) and post up the results of the rail pressure and tickover rpm's. Thumbs Up

ps you could always spray the eye protector glass lens black, would solve that issue as well Thumbs Up
Post #490816 10th Jan 2016 10:40pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks very much. Will do and let you know.

Forgot to say but suspect mpg might have dropped too but a little early to say for sure - not massively but perhaps 50 miles over a full tank.
Post #490821 10th Jan 2016 10:45pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Brian,

only ahort drive this morning (enough to get water temp from 3C (same temp as yesterday where I had plumes of white smoke) to 80C.

on start up the engine was a bit rough (like I'd expect a cold diesel to perform), not like the wobble I refer to above. this was not necessarily any worse but more of a sharp unevenness were as before it was more of a smooth wobble (a bit like if someone was rocking the car).

any how no obvious smoke on start up and I suspect as it should be (?) the fuel rail was between 2900 - 3500psi at start up and at the end of my journey. tick dropped from a little under 900 rpm at cold to 800 at the end of journey (80C) - as it should be ?

so definitely different.

mentioned it somewhere else (can 't recall where), the tube housing the MAP(T) sensor where it joins to the in-let manifold is leaking very slightly (you can see a oily residue buildup), I guess not enough to upset the calibration but then I don't really have a clue and don't think you can buy replacement gaskets - can you?
Post #490877 11th Jan 2016 8:25am
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142
United Kingdom 
i had a nissan pathfinder which did that kind of thing. dealer replaced all the injectors to solve it. engine started missing, and then white smoke like something out of james bond!
Post #490899 11th Jan 2016 9:32am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I presume the injectors being replaced solved it?
Post #490904 11th Jan 2016 9:41am
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142
United Kingdom 
Yes. Permanent fix. Now I think about it, they may have had them refurbished not replaced.
Post #490906 11th Jan 2016 9:45am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I don't even want to go here but...........

any thoughts on the cost of new injectors or refurb of?
Post #490916 11th Jan 2016 10:04am
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Darcy Fairfax



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: London
Posts: 721
England 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
landy andy wrote:
I used to hate reading these threads, but now I love them. I feel so much better having hot rid of the turd time bomb that is a Tdci. Thanks Caterham, keep them coming.

Andy.


What you driving now?
Post #490917 11th Jan 2016 10:07am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Lorryman100 wrote:
Use the ultragauge I gave you and check the rail pressure at start up (also what the tickover rpm is, should be spot on 800rpm when warm). Then check it once the vehicle warms up (89 C) and post up the results of the rail pressure and tickover rpm's. Thumbs Up

ps you could always spray the eye protector glass lens black, would solve that issue as well Thumbs Up



having just seen some pictures in the gallery of an ultraguage at exactly 800rpm I'm thinking what you've said above is to the letter so to speak. are we saying the engine when warm should stay on exactly 800rpm - does everyone's do that? Mines close but I don't think it's every stuck on exactly 800rpm it floats up and down - only by a few rpm (ie 5-10 either side typically), never bothered me but if everyone's elses is exactly 800rpm then clearly something is a miss?

any thoughts?
Post #492146 14th Jan 2016 9:30am
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055
I get "white smoke" the day after I wash it......coz the silencer ends up full of WATER. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #492175 14th Jan 2016 12:27pm
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Riccarton



Member Since: 10 Aug 2015
Location: Gods' Own Country
Posts: 280
Scotland 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Zambezi Silver
Because of this thread I've been monitoring mine over the past few days with frosty or snowy starts to the day.

So, jump in & turn the key to start - no waiting for glow plugs etc just cranking the engine 'til it starts. On the coldest morning it probably took just short of 2 seconds to fire - certainly no more.

Not a hint of white smoke anywhere - not a jot - nowt - zilch!!!! Blip the throttle a wee bit & still nowt.

Mine's been BAS'd (170) and has covered 80k miles but.... it had a replacement oil pump - complete with engine Whistle - 9K miles ago so I presume that would have included injectors.

Not sure whether this is good or bad news for Caterham Thumbs Up
Post #492202 14th Jan 2016 1:13pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
yep not good news.....

I hope it's nothing more than glow plugs? I'm quite sure mine never used to chuck out loads of smoke in the winter?

So I need to pluck up the courage to replace mine only I gather they have a habit of breaking while trying to remove them....is there any trick out there on how to remove them in one piece?
Post #492221 14th Jan 2016 2:12pm
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