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submarinealan



Member Since: 23 Dec 2015
Location: glasgow
Posts: 43

United Kingdom 
Defender Bulkhead seal
Looking for advice planing on changing the bulkhead seal on a landcover defender 90 year 2000. Is replacing the seal straight forward or is this i bigger job than i think.
Does anybody have a link for this job.

Many Thanks
Post #488486 4th Jan 2016 2:29pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Which seal? There are many on the bulkhead. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #488487 4th Jan 2016 2:31pm
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submarinealan



Member Since: 23 Dec 2015
Location: glasgow
Posts: 43

United Kingdom 
the one below the windscreen Very Happy
Post #488489 4th Jan 2016 2:33pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
It is an easy job, there is a row of bolts holding the roof on, bolts pass through the screen frame into captive nuts in the roof (a nut welded to a steel plate so do move around when re-installing) then remove the wiper arms and the hinge brackets, also remove the two trim sections one either side of the screen and ensure any cables running up them are clear. Remove door seals and then loosen off the roof retaining bolts that run along the rear tub to give you a little more clearance and it's good to lift out.

Once it's all back in its down to your eye to line it up, just do up the hinge bolts slowly and equally to get it to sit correctly. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #488495 4th Jan 2016 2:54pm
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submarinealan



Member Since: 23 Dec 2015
Location: glasgow
Posts: 43

United Kingdom 
Many Thanks
Post #488512 4th Jan 2016 4:00pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green




It surprised me that the roof was placed on with the windscreen already attached
Post #488575 4th Jan 2016 7:27pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1762

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I was idly thinking about this job the other day. Would another method entirely be to cut out the foam seal, clean it all up then sikaflex/tigerseal the gap?
Post #488613 4th Jan 2016 8:33pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Lots of people wait for a dry spell, clean the joint and then apply a bead of sealant over the top, I've seen dealers do this too. Removing the dummy hinge blocks makes it easier to get a clean run of sealant. The joint is a poor design and is hit and miss even with a new bit of closed cell foam in between the frame and bulkhead. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #488645 4th Jan 2016 9:37pm
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submarinealan



Member Since: 23 Dec 2015
Location: glasgow
Posts: 43

United Kingdom 
What silicon would you recommend ? I'm thinking Captain Trolleys crack sealer. Laughing
Post #488670 4th Jan 2016 10:17pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2076

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Supacat wrote:




It surprised me that the roof was placed on with the windscreen already attached


I wouldn't mind a set of those wing/panel protectors now that they're surplus to requirement Thumbs Up

As for the silicon/sealer - Silkaflex 291i or 292i?

Has anyone bedded the closed cell foam strip on sealant?
Post #488700 4th Jan 2016 11:34pm
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Giby_off



Member Since: 05 Apr 2015
Location: Sofia
Posts: 63

Bulgaria 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SVX Station Wagon Havana
Mash wrote:
It is an easy job, there is a row of bolts holding the roof on, bolts pass through the screen frame into captive nuts in the roof (a nut welded to a steel plate so do move around when re-installing) then remove the wiper arms and the hinge brackets, also remove the two trim sections one either side of the screen and ensure any cables running up them are clear. Remove door seals and then loosen off the roof retaining bolts that run along the rear tub to give you a little more clearance and it's good to lift out.

Once it's all back in its down to your eye to line it up, just do up the hinge bolts slowly and equally to get it to sit correctly.


Does anyone have pictures from those bolts - "here is a row of bolts holding the roof on, bolts pass through the screen frame into captive nuts in the roof" and "then loosen off the roof retaining bolts that run along the rear tub" I am trying to figure out the steps I need to perform.
Post #496529 26th Jan 2016 10:10am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
They are Screw, Flanged Head, M6 x 25mm and there's 6 of them that go into nut plates:




Items 6 & 9 below:


Post #496578 26th Jan 2016 12:05pm
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Giby_off



Member Since: 05 Apr 2015
Location: Sofia
Posts: 63

Bulgaria 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SVX Station Wagon Havana
Thanks. Those are the bolts connecting windscreen frame and the roof.
Which are those mentioned as roof retaining bolts that run along the rear tub?

I found this link is very useful
http://eastcoastrover.com/100top.html
Post #496709 26th Jan 2016 5:33pm
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Cake



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: Essex
Posts: 277

United Kingdom 
Jut to add my 2 pence - I had my seal replaced while having the screen corrosion sorted and it leaked.

In the end I purchased some 291 Sikaflex and sealed it along the outside - water tight now!

You hardly notice it along there - even the foam gasket is visible so no real difference in the end.
Post #499891 3rd Feb 2016 12:44pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
^^^Yup, as long as there's no corrosion to be dealt with that's the standard and permament fix. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #499932 3rd Feb 2016 2:47pm
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