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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
Help/advice: Wipers wont stop
So after about 500 mile drive between yesterday and today my wipers started to play up. First of all when in intermittent they decided to wipe intermittent and then change to slow full wipe, then intermittent etc. Later today (after 3 hours in the rain) the wipers decided that they didn't like intermittent wipe anymore and just ran at slow speed and then out of the blue they decided Censored you Steve and would allow me to turn the wipers off (it had stopped raining). Pulled over in a safe spot turned the engine off and even removed the keys and started her up again and there was no change so pulled the fuse.

Got home a short whole ago, pulled the relay and replaced with a VW 99 unit that I wanted to swap out anyway but that didn't fix the problem and the only way to stop the wipers was to remove the fuse and put the fuse back. Mmm.

I have read a few reports on the wipers not returning home but not seen much on the way of the motors stopping so thought I would ask you merry bunch if you have any ideas?

Am on leave at the moment so keen to get cracking on this tomorrow Thumbs Up

PS: she is a Puma 2009
Post #484594 22nd Dec 2015 7:46pm
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mrd1990



Member Since: 16 Aug 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 600

Wales 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
The power to the motor is permanent when ignition is on II, there is a plastic switch that clips onto the wiper motor housing which breaks the circuit when the wipers are in parked position, sounds like the switch has failed and so there is nothing to break the circuit and stop the motor

Post #484603 22nd Dec 2015 8:00pm
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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
Thanks for that, seems logical so will rush around and get a spare tomorrow Thumbs Up
Post #484615 22nd Dec 2015 8:20pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6300

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Similar happened to me.

Can't tell you too much as it was resolved under warranty. Switch ie as above sounds right. What I can say you only need to remove the centre part of dash board (or both least that's the only part they seemed unable to re-fit correctly).

Good luck.
Post #484637 22nd Dec 2015 9:07pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Excellent how to here curtesy of Blackwolf

Firstly I can now confirm from personal experience that it is possible to remove the motor completely without taking the dash out, but it is a bit fiddly putting it back in again. With hindsight as it is not at all difficult to take the dash out (and only takes about 1/2 hour) it might be easier to do this. It is probably not possible to change the wheelboxes without removing the dash, but you don't have to disturb them to get the motor out. I chose to do it without removing the complete dash because I didn't want the hassle of removing the steering wheel and column switchgear, which has to come off to remove the complete dash.

In case anyone is interested, here's what I did (note this is a RH drive vehicle):-

1 ) Remove both wiper arms from their spindles (a small puller may be needed if they've been undisturbed for a long time)
2 ) Remove the centre panel from the dash (radio out, undo two screws, pop the four clips and pull the panel forwards, disconnect all switches and the clock, lay panel aside). If you want to avoid having to recode the radio, plug it in again and lay it on top of the dash (it will remember the code long enough to allow this).
3 ) Pop the LH tweeter out and disconnect the connector. Put tweeter aside.
4 ) Remove all the screws holding the dash panel to the bulkhead (on both sides). This includes removing the grab handle (you don't need to remove the thing that isn't a glove box though because those screws only go into the plastic dash) and the trim panel under the instrument panel, the instrument panel itself. If anyone is especially interested I can give more details about which screws to take out. The whole dash is now free and can move.
5 ) Pull the LHS of the dash forwards until you can see the wiper motor.
6 ) Remove the demister pipe to the LH side window outlet (one of those little plastic pop-in fixings to take out)
7 ) Remove the LH windscreen demister outlent complete with pipe (another of these plastic things).
8 ) Unplug the connector on the wiper motor.
9 ) Unscrew the nut securing the wiper rack conduit to the wiper motor.
10) Remove the two screws holding the wiper motor to the bulkhead, and remove the motor. The flexible rack will pull out of the conduit as the motor is extracted.

The motor can then be dismantled, cleaned of old grease (in mine the old grease had the consitency of soap), reassembled and relubricated, and a new park switch fitted (note if it is only the park switch needed you don't need to take the motor out - you can get to the switch at step 5 above).

Before I reassembled I lubricated the spindles until they could spin freely between finger and thumb, and as I inserted the flexible rack back into the conduit tube I applied generous amounts of Castrol LM since there was very little grease on the rack or wheelboxes.

As you reinsert the rack, it should pick up the spindles (you'll see them start to rotate), but if it baulks just have an assistant twiddle them from outside.

Reassembly is then the reversal of the removal procedure, but be advised that getting the two screws that hold the motor to the bulkhead in place is a bit fiddly since you have to hold the motor, the rubber pad that fits behind it, the stirrup that clamps it, the screw, and the screwdriver all at once in a confined space!

The whole job took about 1 1/2 hours, and the wipers are now much quieter and smoother than ever before. They no longer give the impression that they are going to fall off or conk out at any moment! I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #484649 22nd Dec 2015 9:32pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17427

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You remove the centre part as an overture to removing the whole dash, the motor is behind the dash on the passenger side. You can remove the motor by loosening the dash and pulling it away from the bulkhead, rather than total removal. If you search the forum you'll find a 'how to' I posted some while ago (Puma).


Edit - my 'how to' has magically appeared above whilst I was writing my post! Thumbs Up Rolling with laughter

The symptoms you describe do suggest a failed park switch and whilst it isn't the only contender it's the first place I'd look.
Post #484655 22nd Dec 2015 9:44pm
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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
Thanks everyone, really appreciate the assistance (as usual) Bow down
Post #484661 22nd Dec 2015 9:59pm
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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
UPDATE: Replaced the park switch but this didn't fix the issue so going to check the status of the wires from the the stalk.
Post #484776 23rd Dec 2015 11:05am
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
If you find nothing wrong with the wiring I would be looking again at the motor and specifically the gearing mechanism to make sure it is actually operating the park switch. Maybe a voltmeter would help to check this.

I had one once where there was play in the main gear shafts and I needed to pack out with a washer.
Post #484795 23rd Dec 2015 12:28pm
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mrd1990



Member Since: 16 Aug 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 600

Wales 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Try manually pressing the pin on the new motor switch, it could be the plastic bit on the cog inside the motor housing that has moved out of place or snapped off.

Also remember sometimes the switches can be broken from factory Laughing
Post #484830 23rd Dec 2015 2:46pm
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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
Massive thanks to Blackwolf for his write up which was spot on.

The root cause was the motor Thumbs Up

Merry christmas all,

Steve
Post #485159 24th Dec 2015 5:42pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Yes, there are some incredibly talented and knowledgable members of this forum for which, I, for one have been grateful of their knowledge and willingness to share it on more than one occasion. Bow down Bow down Bow down I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #485179 24th Dec 2015 6:33pm
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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
Found this a good read while trying to get mu head around how the wipers worked so worth a share - http://www.reedx.net/landrover/maint/wiperparking/
Post #485669 26th Dec 2015 9:51pm
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Two90s



Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Southern UK
Posts: 40

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Keswick Green
I hope this is of use to someone.

I had the same problem on our 2012 2.2 Tdci Defender, the wipers wouldn't stop. This got worse, so I replaced the wiper switch, this did not work so £75 quid wasted. I removed, cleaned and replaced the park switch, but this did not make any difference.

I found this forum, and read this thread, and decided to go ahead and replace the wiper motor gulp, £208 including VAT from LR main dealership. This had better work, I thought.

I removed all the dash screws and took the instrument binnacle off, plus the steering wheel and plastic cover. This allows the dash to come out sufficiently to remove the wiper motor comfortably. There is an air duct that also needs to be removed.

Time taken approx three hours because it was freezing cold and I have not done this before. Next time will be quicker.

You need a torx 20 and 30 bit, plus plenty of patience as there are dozens of screws.

You need to remove the wipers, because when you replace the cable in the rack, they will spin round and end up in the wrong position. They can be attached once the motors is secured in place.

This did fix my problem, the wipers now start and stop perfectly, and even work on intermittent which they didn't before.

I took the old motor and gearbox apart today, and found the plastic piece on the gear wheel that operates the park switch was worn. The truck has only done 60,000 miles so I think this is a poor design. I hope the new part lasts longer. Puma 90 XS Station Wagon in Keswick Green 2012 2.2 Tdci
Post #875798 1st Jan 2021 11:26pm
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