 | Home > Td5 > Td5 Wheel Bearing Replacement |
 
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2945  
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Is there any way of regreasing without dismantling
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11th Dec 2015 4:40pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443 
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No!
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11th Dec 2015 5:49pm |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 
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I did have some degree of success on one of my previous 90's with fitting an M6 grease nipple into the drive flange and pumping it full occasionally. |
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11th Dec 2015 10:36pm |
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| Dave-H Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1507  
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Interchangeable Yes, but you'll need the centre spacer as well as locknut. Bearings are the same. TBH, If you don't have an issue with a wheel bearing ATM, It's a flaff changing from 2 nut to the latest system ... Personally I wouldn't bother If it wasn't necessary  Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant. |
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12th Dec 2015 10:38am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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One versus two nut system.
 Click image to enlarge I prefer the 2 nut system. You can re-adjust them and I think a little bearing wear doesn't mean the bearing is gone. A one nut system needs a spacer as you have to make up the one nut very thight. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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12th Dec 2015 1:12pm |
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| Appleby Member Since: 03 Apr 2012 Location: Bristol Posts: 74 
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A big thank you to everyone who replied! I didn't know the subject of wheel bearings would bring such varied discussion! After having my landy up on axle stands over the weekend I can feel absolutely no play in any of the bearings
 I wouldn't put it past the garage that did the MOT to fishing for work (I wouldn't use them if they weren't so damn cheap).
I still don't know which method I would use when it comes to replacing bearings. I can see advantages for both systems however I think I could be tempted by the two nut method. I was thinking I could pick up an assortment of the spacers and return the unused ones but at nearly £7 each this seems silly and I don't have the facilities to leave my landy unattended on axle stands while I pop out to the local parts place mid job! I'm also not sure I fancy trying to remove the stake nut, most jobs I seem to do end up taking twice as long as I have to remove seized, sheared, rounded or generally ruined fasteners.  |
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17th Dec 2015 7:10pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5729 
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I've got brand new nuts and washers to change the single nut, to the better 2 nut system if you require them. Original Land Rover parts, not cheap quality.
Andy. |
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17th Dec 2015 10:56pm |
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| Appleby Member Since: 03 Apr 2012 Location: Bristol Posts: 74
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Could be tempted. I've seen a few kits about so let us know (drop me a PM if you want).
Ta |
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19th Dec 2015 5:01pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 745 
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I have recently changed the front wheel bearings on my 110 I stuck with the 1 nut system, I used genuine (Timken) bearings and both sides needed to be re shimmed, I bought a full set of spacers from Paddocks, most of the sizes were just over a £1 each
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30th Dec 2015 1:17pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637  
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Hi all,
When did the single nut set-up come into play? I have a rear bearing to do, so trying to order the correct bits from island 4x4 prior to stripping it down (my daily runner). My reg is X128UAS and the chassis number is 1A609701. Mine is 1st gen TD5, 110. Thanks in advance folks. Andy |
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31st Dec 2015 12:18pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi all,
Just to say, that having consulted the TD5 workshop manual, it appears that all TD5 cane with the single nut set-up. Cheers Andy |
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1st Jan 2016 1:59pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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Then to throw a spanner in the works, my 2002 110 has 3x two nut set ups and 1 single nut set up. You only be able to see when you pull the hub flange off. Have a word with your parts man and see if you can have a set of each on "sale or return" or bite the bullet and have a look first, you can allways use just some silicon sealant to put the flanges back on.
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1st Jan 2016 2:11pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Bloody h*ll they don't like making it easy do they
I just changed the rear half shafts on the 110 in August, didn't occur to me to take photos of the hubs!!!! Think i will just buy a bearing set and be done with it. I'm figuring the bearings are the same on both kits, if its the single nut set-up, then I will just re-use the spacer and rely on the bearing manufacturer tolerances. At the end of the day, surely the spacer is not really for the bearing tolerence (they are manufactured to tight specs), but the machining tolerance of the hubs, so if you reuse the same hub then really you should be fine (I think). Cheers Andy |
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1st Jan 2016 3:34pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443
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I used to think that and indeed have made the same comment on this forum before, but when I replaced the bearings in my ROS hub not long ago I found that new bearings (same make, Timken, and spec as those that came out) were *far* too tight when assembled with the original spacer. I was very surprised, but the bearings would have run hot and failed in short order if assembled like that. It was a 'no-brainer' to ditch the spacer and revert to the two nut system. |
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1st Jan 2016 3:56pm |
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