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| Defendernoob Member Since: 23 Nov 2015 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2   
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Hi there I have exactly the same problem with my 110 puma. It seems to be catching on the strip of silver metal. Did you have any joy with sorting yours out as I had it in bits today but could not really see any sag of misalignment?
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5th Dec 2015 7:42pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 210 
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Hi Defendernoob, in short the answer is no, well not yet anyway. I have even had a new trim piece remade in stainless steel but to no avail. I bought one ready made but the screw holes didn't line up, so it was returned. I then had another made but had the flat section (where the screws go in) 3mm shorter, still no joy. Then I carefully chamfered the edge but it still catches. My next ploy will be to see if I can source another piece of rubber seal but with a thinner 'flange' section, this may help. Apparently (as I've been led to believe) the hinge bolt holes don't offer much leeway so I left these alone as I didn't fancy having to muck about with the catch which doesn't appear to have much adjustment scope.
You can't tell that the door bottom is catching on the strip, I only noticed when I saw a rust mark and thus investigated. For now I smear some 3 in 1 oil onto the door where the paint is rubbed off. (About 3 inches from the hinge side). If mine was still under warranty I'd have it back in for Land Rover to sort out. |
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6th Dec 2015 2:00pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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The catch has loads of adjustment and is easy to do. You just need a 10mm spanner IIRC. a socket on a short extension makes it a bit easier.
The door has less adjustment and is more difficult to do, but it's certainly possible. You need a 13mm spanner, a T40 bit/key and either a helper or a Hi-Lift/farm jack. |
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6th Dec 2015 3:51pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 210
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Cheers Cupboard, I'll have another look regarding the door catch.
I was thinking that I could loosen the hinge bolts a tad on the body side and using a hi Lift under the spare wheel push the door up a bit, do you think that would work? I only need a mm or two. |
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6th Dec 2015 7:04pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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That's what I'd do.
When I was putting mine all back together after taking the sides off, I hadn't realised I was missing a bolt from the bottom hinge and everything had sagged a bit seeing as it was only supported on the middle hinge. I took the spare off to make it lighter, then bolted it all back together myself, but you needed another set of arms really. In hindsight it would have been a lot easier to get a helper or a jack. |
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7th Dec 2015 12:53pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 210
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Cheers Cupboard, perhaps I'll get around to it come the Christmas holidays when I've got some free time. It'll probably end in a very sweary episode though, it always does
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8th Dec 2015 7:44pm |
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| Defendernoob Member Since: 23 Nov 2015 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2
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In the end i just loosened all the nuts and lifted the door a bit and tightened, then closed it and look to see what adjustment i needed then, to close it after moving it i then had to move the striker bar abit to match up. did that a couple of times and hay presto some alighned doors, i do not believe that it is that easy and probably will find it leaks like a tramps shoe.
one of the doors had dropped so much it had chipped the paint on it, so i need to get some touch up paint to protect it. a right pain and it has left me with a bad taste in my mouth as i purchased the thing from a LR garage thinking i would be protected, how wrong was i, the warrenty specifically says no hinges, and so they tried to hit me with a bill of £1000 to align the doors, i took the keys of them and laughed as i walked out cheeky monkeys. |
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16th Jan 2016 5:14pm |
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