 | Home > My Defender > Defender 90 TD5 Rebuild / Tribute Build Thread |
 
|
|
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130   
|
Same here, got a bit bored, bolted things up, makes you feel like it's progressing.
 Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
25th Sep 2015 11:08am |
|
| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383
|
Mine could look like it's finished tomorrow  |
||
|
25th Sep 2015 11:35am |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
Been to purchase approximately 700 bolts, buts and washers this morning. That should keep things going for a while
Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
26th Sep 2015 10:56am |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
Episode 05 is out here:
So, since the last update, the following has happened. After giving the parts a thorough clean, using a combination of wire brushing, degreasing and the parts washer:  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The items were then masked up: Click image to enlarge Hung up for painting on an industrial clothing rail: Click image to enlarge Or slotted into some holes we drilled in a palette for things like the arms: Click image to enlarge And hit with some etch primer: Click image to enlarge Then, all the fixings on the chassis added so far were treated with M1 Corrosion protector (like ACF50, but cheaper) Click image to enlarge Fitted the bump stops: Click image to enlarge And today I can go collect the bulkhead and axles! Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
30th Sep 2015 9:40am |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
Righto, things happened yesterday
Click image to enlarge Collected the bulkhead and axles form the shot blasters. The bulkhead has come up very nice! Not as much welding needed as I thought so well worth having it blasted. Click image to enlarge That's not to say I got off welding completely, both pillars will need to be replaced. Then once it's cleaned up, a jig will be welded up and sent to the galvanisers. Click image to enlarge Here, all the underbody parts that prepped are getting a top coat of satin black like the chassis. These have cured to a pleasing finish. The masking trick worked perfectly 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Then once fully cured, the parts are packed up safely until I need them - I'm trying to prevent accidental damage Click image to enlarge Finally, the axles had some final prep for painting - I'll hit those with etch primer e.t.c as before. I'll then clean the internals throughly and the final drive case - bolt the lot back together and paint it! Click image to enlarge This is how the everything looks so far, great finish from the blasters - who've recommended that I hit everything with 60 - 80 grit paper. I'll see if it seems necessary. Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
1st Oct 2015 8:24am |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
Ok, so Episode 06 is out now:
Here's what I've been up to over the last week. I sold my 110 for a start, which is partly why I've had no time to be posting
Click image to enlarge Took the opportunity of perhaps the last bit of good weather to fit a weather sealing strip, should stop the dust blowing under the door in the hard winters we get. 
I then prepped the axles for painting, removing the shot blasting material from the inside of the axles - this would likely make an aggressive grinding paste if there were any left inside. Click image to enlarge The shot used was an iron oxide of some sort, but was coated on in the intervals of the axle. To remove, I gave the whole lot a through wash with chassis detergent and a sponge. Click image to enlarge Placing a scaffold pole through the axle tubes or even bolting some old stub axles on lets you easily rotate the axle on the stands. Click image to enlarge The axles then needed drying completely, before using a solvent soaked rag to clean the internals and outside. The axles were then spotlessly clean, took an hour per axle though 
Click image to enlarge There will be no contamination of the diff oil now! Click image to enlarge The diff studs were refitted, ready for the final drive casing. Click image to enlarge The final drive casing mating surface after clean up to take RTV sealant. Click image to enlarge RTV, adding the bits before cinching those down and torqueing up. After everything is securely sealed up, I can clean the diff casing - preventing the crud falling into the axle or onto the diff. Then, those were solvent cleaned, etch primed, left to cure and finally painted in satin black Click image to enlarge Whilst they dried, I began popping bushes back in. You can fiddle around popping them in with a vice or similar. I found it easier to secure the arm in the vice, then use a large M12 bolt with some thick washers on to pull it through. Click image to enlarge This would work really well if you had to do this at the roadside, a handy homemade 'tool'. Click image to enlarge It can also be used to pull the inner race through Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
8th Oct 2015 10:26am |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
The axles are painted! And looking superb! Love the Frost Chassis paint
Click image to enlarge Also, purchased a printed TD5 Defender manual with the 300TDi and Electrical supplements, pricey but worth it for a job like this. Click image to enlarge Picked up a new A frame Fulcrum bracket with the ball joint pressed in, saves me the hassle as I don't have a press and these aren't too pricey to buy pre-done. Click image to enlarge That was all bolted together, using genuine bolts just to be safe. Click image to enlarge I applied copper slip liberally - I don't want any trouble if I ever need to disassemble these parts. Click image to enlarge I then bolted the brackets into place, the manual says to not torque everything down till it's in place Click image to enlarge The A Frame was then lifted into place and nipped up, but not fully, I'll do that when the axle is in place. Click image to enlarge Also bolted on the damper brackets, these ones are not handed, but the manual appears to show them as though they are. Click image to enlarge I took the chance this week to set-up the shot blasting cabinet. This one came from [url]Frost.co.uk[/url], they are a good company to work with and have a lot of stuff that's of interest to vehicle restorers. I'm running the cabinet with recycled (crushed) glass - it's cheap at around £5 per 25kg. Click image to enlarge The cabinet has been completely indispensable. Rather than having to replace all those little brackets that quickly add-up the costs - I've been ablate last them, restoring them to as new condition. It's brilliant. I'm going to refurb the callipers using this cabinet
Here's a before and after (needs a little more blasting, but this was about 1 minutes work) Click image to enlarge Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
15th Oct 2015 8:14am |
|
| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383
|
It's all about the detail!!
|
||
|
15th Oct 2015 8:18am |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
What have we been up to this week with our Tribute build?
First up, we set about finishing the swivels from last time. The pre-load had to be set using shims on the upper pin - a time consuming process to say the least. Click image to enlarge You'll need a spring balance, which can be found cheaply online or at a fishing supplies shop. Click image to enlarge We're looking for a constant pull between 1.2kg and 1.4kg. If you're reading over the number, you need more shims, if you're below, you need to remove some. Be careful not to crank it down with such a high pre-load that you buckle the bearing race. Click image to enlarge Then the oil seal and retainer plate need fitting. These lock down with small bolts and are torqued to 11nm. Click image to enlarge The steering stop lock bolt was added at both sides too, this will need adjusting later. Click image to enlarge Once the swivels we're correctly pre-loaded, we slid the cv and half shaft into place, feeling for the splines on the final drive unit to match with the half shaft end before gently pushing it home. Click image to enlarge Using a piece of plywood to prevent damage, the brass bushing on the back of the stub axle can be tapped into place. To fit the roller bearing, we used an old cv joint as a bearing setter. Worked very well! Click image to enlarge The stub axles can then be bolted on using the correct tensile strength stub axle bolts, with thread lock. Click image to enlarge The new discs are from EBC and look awesome! Hopefully they'll provide superior braking capability thanks to the drilled and slotted brake surface. Click image to enlarge The hub bearings were then fitted as well as the oil seal and adjusted correctly, before flatting the lock washer around the two hub nuts. Click image to enlarge Then we positioned the axle under the rear of the chassis and connected it to the trailing arms, as well as dropping in the a frame ball joint. Click image to enlarge The a frame castellated nut needs tightening and then the split pin pushing through Click image to enlarge The springs and dampers could then be fitted, along with some nice galvanised seats and retainer plates. Click image to enlarge The wheels were then temporarily bolted on. These are not the final wheels we'll be using - those haven't been painted yet. These are just to allow us to shunt the chassis around the workshop. Click image to enlarge Then the springs and shocks were offered up - working with standard, non-gas filled shocks is a bit of a treat as they don't want to rapidly expand! Click image to enlarge Then the front boots can be chucked on. These will be up for sale once the build is finished as they are surplus to requirements. Click image to enlarge It is now a rolling chassis! Here's proof as I move it further into the centre of the shop for more room! Click image to enlarge The R380 gearbox was chucked on a palette and taken to a gearbox specialist for a recon and inspection. This one had done around 75k and was getting a little tired, however it's always been well looked after so that's good. Click image to enlarge We added the steering arm to make moving the rolling chassis around a bit easier. Click image to enlarge The clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel assembly was stripped from the engine, so we could fit it on an engine stand, this one is from SGS Engineering. It's a good value stand, but from my past experience with other SGS products, the are as good if not better than their competitors. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I drained the oil from the engine, before refitting the sump plug and setting about scrubbing it with gunk to get it clean. Click image to enlarge Working in the 'Gunk' degreasing solution to shift those really stubborn stains. Click image to enlarge Then fitted some new axle breathers to the axles. We picked up these M12 to 6mm pneumatic elbows from Gwynn Lewis 4x4 - I'm impressed with their service, they ship products very quickly! In the kit, you also get a tap. Then it's a case of removing the old brass bushing to reveal the 12mm hole and tapping that. The tap should be dipped into some grease to stop swarf entering the diff oil. These ones are for TD5 / Puma axles. If you have 300tdi and older, you'll have a 1/8 hole, in which case you can pick up a 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) fitting to 6mm pipe on eBay for next to nothing. You'll need a 1/8" tap too. The only difference is the elbow is smaller. Click image to enlarge Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
23rd Oct 2015 10:36am |
|
| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383
|
Nice, I wish I had this amount of room on my build.
Keep the thread going  |
||
|
23rd Oct 2015 10:48am |
|
| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
|
Nice build!
|
||
|
23rd Oct 2015 6:22pm |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
This week, we headed over to a local gearbox specialist to get our R380 stripped down and inspected. 
Here it is after we dropped it off, looking a little sad. The plan is to have it inspected, have all bearings & seals replaced then the outer cases will be fully cleaned and painted before reassembly. 
If you look in the R380 manual, it lists the tools need to remove this oil selector collar: LRT-37-009 and LRT-37-010 
Glenn then removed the foam insulation that sits in the tunnel over the gear selector housing and gear knobs. He then went on to remove the extension housing upper bolts, the ones that go through the remote and gear change housing. 
The high low and centre diff lock linkages were also removed as were the breather pipes that were still bundled with the gearbox. 
Next Glenn removed the 4 bolts left on the remaining gearbox mounting bracket. 
The remote housing was then free to remove. 
The front cover is held on with 6 bolts. This can be tapped loose using a soft faced hammer. 
The input shaft front taper bearing is in good condition 
The bearing races themselves though have a little scoring, only light - but then this gearbox has covered 75 thousand miles. 
The spool retainers also need removing, there's one in the gearcase and one in the extension housing. 
Next out comes the inhibitor camshaft, then Glenn removed the bolts holding the extension housing to the centre plate and gearcase. 
The outer Detent ball and spring need removing, these have a torx screw holding them in on this box. After a liberal spray of penetrating fluid and heating with a propane torch, this came out much easier. The detent ball and spring can be retrieved with a magnet. The gearcase and extension housing are then separated, before removing the selector quadrant and completely splitting the outer cases. 
The oil filter was retrieved and appeared to be in good condition 
And that's the internals removed. 
The bank / synchro rings are also in decent condition, they haven't worn sharp. 
The housings are then put into the parts washer and a hot wash tank for a thorough degrease before painting. 
On the gearbox internals, glenn first removes the 5th gear nut - then the layshaft 5th gear 
Before moving onto the mainshaft and removing the mainshaft 5th. The syncro here was in excellent condition. After removing the 5th gear, you need to remove the circlip that holds the Reverse/5th gear synchro hub and sleeve in place, then the hub itself. 
Reverse gear comes off next. 
The input shaft slides off now along with the 4th gear syncro ring. 
Then reverse comes off. 
When taking the center plate off, watch out for the lower detent spring and ball. The Selector fork and shaft can be removed next and that’s the gearbox done. It’ll then be cleaned, any worn parts replaced and painted - we should be able to pick that up in the next episode! 
Back at FunRover HQ - we’re working on the steering box. We purchased a recon steering box as the old one would make quite a grumble as it was turned from lock to lock. This was supplied by LrParts.net. Once this is fitted, we can send the old one back, it’s a neat way of saving cash and recycling Land Rover parts. Empty as much steering fluid out the system as you can. Will need to be centred and bled and the torque will be rechecked after our shake down drive. 
Adding the tie bar 
This can be lifted into place and bolted up, it's much easier if there are 2 of you. 
One shot grease was added to the swivel housings. It was necessary to remove the steering stop locks to turn the housing past the end of the swivel ball. This allows you to insert the grease bag filling tube right into the housing and get the grease in the right place, rather than it spewing back out all over. 
Next, we moved onto the TD5 lump. This needs cleaning up, as we're going to paint and polish it. Unnecessary? Perhaps, but it would look out of place in the build if we had a dirty old engine. 
First off, I started by removing all hoses. 
Some of the pipes had quite an amount of corrosion in them. 
Next, the fuel cooler was removed. It's helpful to put bolts back in their respective holes so you can remember where they came from later. 
The Alternator and associated belt pulleys were next. 
The turbo came off afterwards, revealing the all too common snapped exhaust manifold stud problem. Not one stud had snapped but two! 
The answer is to get the manifold machined flat (as it has warped due to the exhaust gas temperatures) then have some of the casting removed to help it flex little. We'll also fit longer, more heavy duty studs with spacers and this should stop it ever happening again. Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
30th Oct 2015 4:04pm |
|
| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
|
This week, we've been mainly working on our engine, as well as inspecting the rear tub. 
It's a good idea to get the tub sat on an body painting trestle. These can be found on eBay pretty reasonably. They give you really good access to the underside and as an added bonus, fold away when not needed. 
The inside of the tub has accumulated a lot of grime from the workshop and so it needed a good clean out. We used a strong road and traffic film remover to strip away any oils that might have been on the surfaces of the tub. 
After cleaning, the body mappings have revealed some rust, not to worry, these are going to be blasted and then galved.
There are a lot of holes left in the tub. We'll try alloy brazing to fill them in. 
This seat belt mounting bracket is corroded, fortunately YRM metal solutions produces laser cut reproduction panels that we can simply rivet on. The part isn't too expensive either! 
Use a TD5 / V8 Viscous fan set from FlatDog UK we removed the viscous fan in preparation for cleaning and painting the engine. 
Using a 75mm air polisher and white diamond metal polish and sealer. Why are we polishing the rocker cover? Well, we're not refitting the acoustic cover on the engine, so we want it to look as good as the rest of the vehicle. 
Here's a before and part way through, the White Diamond polish is great, it takes very little effort to get to the finish on the right. A few more passes and we'll have a chrome like finish that is protected from further oxidisation thanks to the sealer in the polishing compound. 
Then we moved onto cleaning the engine, which had a lot of baked on oils, carbon deposits, mud and corrosion.
First, it was given a thorough scrub down with some small stainless steel wire brushes and a degreasing detergent. 
Once dry, we could then tackle the corrosion. Here we're working the corroded areas with the brush more, before switching to a dremel with a wire cup. 
Areas such as the end of the block were pretty corroded so it was knocked back with a red scotchbrite pad, polished and then sealed. 
Still a little more corrosion that was removed with a flapper wheel on the dremel.] Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
||
|
10th Nov 2015 8:48am |
|
| Freypal Member Since: 23 Sep 2013 Location: Shropshire Posts: 271 
|
This thread is absolutely superb. Inspiring me to finish off my projects!
|
||
|
12th Nov 2015 8:03pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
