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Mech



Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
New style torsional spring clutch pedal goes to the floor...
...and doesnt come back.

I was putting a new clutch, master, and slave in my 200tdi and decided to replace the pedalbox while I was at it. The old one was pretty corroded and the old style mechanism makes for a sore knee.

I decided to go ahead and put the new style box in with the torsional spring (Genuine SKB500280).

When I depress the pedal the spring resists until it goes over a break point and then sticks to the floor and doesnt return.
I can adjust the stop point with the bolt on the box to prevent the pedal from going to the break over point, but that doesn't seem right. I'm afraid I wont have enough travel then.

Any insights from the forum?
Post #466404 25th Oct 2015 3:53pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
As you have replaced the master and slave cylinder, I presume you have bled the system and checked for any leaks.

The other thing is are you using the right master cylinder as gearboxes have gender specific master cylinders if you have installed the wrong one it is possible that the master maybe be the wrong stroke length.

Also have you bled with a pressure bleeder? Sometimes when bleeding the clutch because the pipe to the slave cylinder has a fairly wide bore, so if you are not careful when you have opened the bleed nipple and pressed the pedal the bubbles of air can rise back to where they started.

Try raising the front of the vehicle off the ground when bleeding also check the adjuster nuts on the master cylinder are tight. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #466423 25th Oct 2015 4:29pm
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Mech



Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
I started to bleed the system but since I was alone, it was tough. I'll try again when I have a helper. The master is the correct part for an LT77.

What I'm really after is whether or not the pedal is supposed to "break over" and stick to the floor once the spring cams over. Shouldn't the spring return it to the up position regardless of whether or not the master is even hooked up?
Post #466429 25th Oct 2015 4:58pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2642

Scotland 
With that kind of spring the pedal will stay down without the hydraulic pressure of the clutch to push it back up, yes. You have no fault.

Once it's bled it all should be normal.
Post #466452 25th Oct 2015 5:37pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1780

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Hi Mech,

I swapped my pedal assembly over today as well as the original seemed out of line (bent) and yes they do go over center and spring to the floor when they are 'open circuit'.

I seem to remember from years ago bleeding a 200 tdi was a pain in the 4rse! The only way I could do it was to rig up a reverse bleed and push fluid from the slave and overflow the master cylinder - make sure you flush all spilled fluid away with plenty of water.


Good luck
Keith
Post #466456 25th Oct 2015 5:43pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Yep! With this type of spring pedal will stay down, hydraulics will lift it back. It must be a bleeding issue! Wink Make sure the bleed nipple is at the highest point when you attach a pipe to bleed off. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #466459 25th Oct 2015 5:46pm
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Mech



Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Thank you kind sir. I suppose it makes it kinda tricky to pump the pedal for the bleed. I guess I'll have to have someone do it with their hand so they can pick it back off the floorboard. Seems strange.
Post #466463 25th Oct 2015 5:47pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1780

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Post #466467 25th Oct 2015 5:54pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Quote:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/gunson-brake-ble...-set/33881

For £20 it might save some time!


Gunson Eezlibleed for the home mechanic best thing since sliced bread Thumbs Up For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #466501 25th Oct 2015 7:33pm
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Mech



Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
ordered!
Post #466514 25th Oct 2015 8:01pm
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tonyhedge



Member Since: 07 Jul 2015
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 101

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Montalcino Red
Hi Mech

Been using Gunson's Easibleed since Series 3's were new! I swear by them, but if you get the pressure too high you will be swearing at them. I keep a spare wheel in the shed left at 18 psi just for use with the Easibleed. The 30-odd psi pressure from a typical LR spare is just too high and it will leak fluid.

Good luck! That's not a dent, it's a rivet. That's not a dent, it's a rivet. That's not ... oh! That is a dent!

2014 90 XS SW
1997 Discovery 300TdiS (retired to stud)
1966 Series IIA 88" (now my son's)
2001 Astra - I need something to go and buy the parts when the others are off the road!
Post #466526 25th Oct 2015 8:28pm
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