 | Home > Td5 > Wheel bearings going? If so? |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598   
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Try also jacking up the front axle and rotating the wheels by hand in the straight ahead and full lock positions. You may feel or hear something.
Try it also with someone holding the opposite wheel stationary so that you can spin the crownwheel/pinion and propshaft, as well as spining a wheel with the transmission in gear so that the opposite wheel is spinning the other way (which will exercise the differential gears). Very often this will give you a good indication of the state of the diff. |
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19th Dec 2014 1:45pm |
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| uncas Member Since: 22 Nov 2012 Location: Wentworth near Rotherham Posts: 340
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With both wheels off the ground when spinning one wheel the opposite wheel will turn in the opposite direction without the transmission being in gear. If you are checking the diff in this way it's best to disconnect the prop shaft. Hold each wheel in turn whilst moving it slowly to see if you can feel any roughness in the bearings and then let the wheel spin freely whilst listening for a rumbling or any other noise. Whilst the prop shaft is disconnected feel at the uj's as you move them through their full range of movement. Check the hub oil level or grease on later vehicles.
And grease or lubricate everything when you re assemble. Arm chair diagnostics are flippin hard especially with noise and vibration because both travel very easily. Uncas |
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19th Dec 2014 2:29pm |
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| Stue5 Member Since: 06 Jul 2014 Location: Marche Posts: 111  
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Thank you all for your input/time descriptions. Gone over the defender.......
Checked rear bearings (wobble. Test) ok Pulled the half shaft and rotated rears felt ok. Rear prop felt ok without removing just the handbrake binding ever so slightly, not that I would have felt with the rear axel attached. Went forward, front axel jacked up and chocked rotated and wobbled . Wobble test ok but rotation produced a odd noise centering round the diff. With my Girlfrend on her way to pick me up( very understanding one) I had explained I had desided to take apart my defender. I dropped the oil from the front diff. Magnet check oil, very little/no swath. Girlfrend arrives ..... I notice small dribble of oil down the nsf hub... Transfer jack to nsf and wobble test slightest of play which I did not feel in the previous trys  Girlfrend >spin the wheel like this..... I went noise hunting and there appears to be a "gritty"noise coming from the rear of the diff not the inside. The front diff is grotty due to the fuel "manifold? Pump?" Leaking. I try not to pressure wash any seals/unions so have not noticed the hub leaking like it did when I until I opened up the diff.
So the plan is fit new bearing. Fill diff with fresh oil( and get looking for a rebuilt diff/ replace bearing) Refit half shafts Test drive........ I hope this is all legible 
After I was convinced it was ether the osf or rear............ Thanks all for the help guidance Range Rover p38 4.6 99 lpg(gone  ) |
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19th Dec 2014 11:17pm |
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| GSLRO Member Since: 13 May 2012 Location: Tyne and Wear Posts: 499 
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Ditto with this comment ... but you can usually hear it click click clicking also when turning Adventure isn't paved! |
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20th Dec 2014 2:29pm |
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| Stue5 Member Since: 06 Jul 2014 Location: Marche Posts: 111
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Ok 10 months ago i had some not very nice noises.
My last post regarding it says i noticed a leak down the hub..... and felt play, so new nsf bearing went in this reduce play but did not eliminate it the abs also lit up and fired at parking speed locking up the wheel. I remove fuse 11 to disable abs/tc. play was in the swiel bearings. Drove 400km north (slowly). New swivel kit installed by garage fuse put back and happy. Everything now solid but the noise retunes if provoked
I decided to try and continue and use the land rover and hope it would speak to me.(this was still troulbilng me....) six months passed and I still go under and give eveyting a good waggle  but I relised it was deteriating.....
frustrated i climb under the defender and with all my weight (73kg wet) I got the exhaust to knock on to the chassis , I could not believe that the exhaust could move that far and the force needed seamed excessive (30-35mm) but i was getting desperate so i wired the exhaust away from chassis and took it for a drive.  It worked no noise .
I spoke to a friend (Pete a series one owner(very understanding man as i call on him often) and he said get new engine mounts + gearbox mounts. Today on removing the old engine mounts I relies how stuffed the old ones are  (4-5mm lower by eye)  if only i had known..............I had convinced myself that it was a mechanical noise.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The only expatiation is that the combination of cornering and giving throttle rolled the engine and then through it over further with the trouqe. As a side note I checked the three breathers for front axle trans and r380 (after a short run) because i read it may cause leaks/pressure , so i acquired a small irrigation pipe and fitting from the garden center and blew down the pipes first smelt like transfer ok, second gearbox, third blocked!! the pipe was wedged in and after cutting and pulling it out from near the back of the engine i discovered it was flat melted..  i then tested the breather and it smelt of EP90  I imagine it has been like this for a long while previously i had only given a visual check and whether this is why i had trouble with the bearings on the nsf. extended the pipe and rooted it round the back of the air box this time.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Thank you all again for all the help given,
(apologizes for my spelling not my strong point  ) Range Rover p38 4.6 99 lpg(gone ) |
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13th Oct 2015 7:18pm |
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