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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
*Deleted* Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #429135 7th Jun 2015 6:24am
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Thank you for clarifying this point. I have ordered the new gasket. I don't have a workshop so I now need to find someone to do the skim. Speed limit in France is 130km/h and rarely exceed that - I will be very happy to be able to do this for a days journey. Thank you very much guys your help is very much appreciated !
Post #429138 7th Jun 2015 6:38am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
If you can't find someone to skim it, use a decent file. With a bit of elbow grease, emery cloth and some patience, it's easy Thumbs Up

p.s. don't forget to block all the holes off... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #429142 7th Jun 2015 7:22am
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Mr Ze D

May I kindly ask if you skimmed both sides of the flange, the exhaust manifold flange and the turbo flange, or did you just skim the the turbo flange? I don't have a workshop so just doing the one side would be a lot easier !
Post #429172 7th Jun 2015 9:03am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Just the turbo. The exhaust manifold seems a lot more stable (and the metal is harder). Mine has never distorted, even after cooking the turbo a few times - although I'm a lot calmer now Wink

Just check the face with a straight edge. If it's beyond repair, I've got another spare manifold if you need it - one just went to a member in Greece Thumbs Up

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #429227 7th Jun 2015 2:03pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Matt - I went back and read all the threads regarding this issue. I see at one point you fixed your problem with new bolts Nord Locks and a Nakatanenga gasket. Did this solution ultimately fail? Is that why you recommend 'skimming' the flange. I ask because I think that i might just about manage to change the gasket and install some Nord-Lock whereas removing a turbo and skimming a flange is probably a bit beyond my present skill set.

Warm regards Charlie
Post #429296 7th Jun 2015 6:17pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
So the Land Rover is sitting in my friends back garden and the turbocharger is with a local machinist. The turbo to exhaust manifold flange was indeed very noticably warped. If all goes well with the machinist today we will attempt to put it back together tomorrow.

I have a question though. When we removed the three nuts from the turbo to exhaust manifold flange the nuts came out with the studs still attached ! This doesn't seem right to me. Surely the studs ought stay in the exhaust manifold and the nuts should simple screw off. I guess that we can seperate the nuts and the studs using a vice and a spanner but can someone explain how to correctly reinsert the studs into the exhaust manifold so that they don't screw out? Are special tools needed because I don't I don't have any ...LOL
Post #437974 15th Jul 2015 11:59am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
The studs go in finger tight, the idea being that if you shear one by over-tightening the nut you can still get it out. Tightening the nut keeps it and the stud in place. You can also use HD studs and crushed locking nuts for extra peace of mind Wink

p.s. I just read again - it's good practice to use new studs and nuts... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #438087 15th Jul 2015 7:16pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Hey thanks matt, as usual very helpful, I have got some nord-locks which should keep it all nice and tight, what are HD studs??? I googled? I still haven't the foggiest ? Charlie b
Post #438088 15th Jul 2015 7:26pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
I've tried Nordlocks before when I was having problems with warping of the face (since filed flat) and they didn't work. I would recommend just crush nuts that I've had no trouble with, e.g.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-COPPER-FLASHE...19fbbc3b04

I can't remember exactly where I got them but our local friendly ford dealer provided the HD studs. I'll try and call him later if I get time (flying to London today for a holiday Surprised)))

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #438149 16th Jul 2015 5:04am
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Thanks Matt for the link to the crush nuts matt. I will get those and retro fit them. HD studs, as in 'Heavy Duty' studs I take it <smile> I am taking photos and think I will post a walk through for anyone who has a similiar problem. Many thanks for this!!!

Enjoy your holidays in London, I will be in London tomorrow too Smile
Post #438151 16th Jul 2015 5:33am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
I just checked and the HD studs came from Nakatanenga as part of a kit. The dealer used the rest of it elsewhere - I wonder how he priced them Confused

He isn't sure if you can still get them - perhaps ask?

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #438179 16th Jul 2015 8:27am
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redline



Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Mountains and Lakes
Posts: 221

Switzerland 
ZeDefender - do you have a link or part number for the Nakatanenga gasket+stud kit?
Is it possible to get the copper flashed nuts from them as well?

Cheers,

redline
Post #461540 8th Oct 2015 11:06am
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Just an update on my turbo whine problem. Since doing the manisfold skim and fitting the Nakatanenga gasket with just the standard copper nuts I have driven about 1500 miles including significant autoroute mileage at speed (80mph) in relatively high 30 C ambient temperatures. Not had a problem. Its is rock solid now. I am no mechanic but with the help of the kind gentlemen on this forum I was able to fix what was quite a tricky problem myself. Thank you Defender Net Smile
Post #462894 13th Oct 2015 1:09pm
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TazzieJake



Member Since: 15 Aug 2018
Location: Hobart
Posts: 2

Australia 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Hi, this is my first post. Just trying to resurrect this thread as I have bought the aftermarket gasket because mine has an obvious leak. Wondering if anyone here ended up creating a step by step guide on how to change the gasket? I have read elsewhere that you don't have to completely remove the turbo to install the gasket but looking at it I can't see how.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
Post #723524 15th Aug 2018 5:59am
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