 | Home > Td5 > New drips. |
 
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6645   
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Common issue on the Td5, either the seals or the regulator unit itself fails.
 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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6th Oct 2015 7:18pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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Yep, 99% sure it's the regulator.
Simple little thing..... But a pain to change too!  80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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6th Oct 2015 7:19pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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I don't know what the spares sources are like where you are but you can get full service kits on the British Ebay or if you feel unsure of your strip down skills as they are quite fiddly then go for a complete one. Just be sure to get the right one for your engine, the 10P has differences to the 15P engines.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCO...41714729aa |
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6th Oct 2015 7:25pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
Click on the + Signs to open the Parts Tree !
1 - Connector assembly-fuel block To (E)10P 15967B MSO100010 [ 2500 cc - 5 Cylinder - Diesel - Turbo ] From (E)10P 15968B To (V) ECD3 MSO000080 [ 2500 cc - 5 Cylinder - Diesel ] 2 - .Sensor-temperature 2 - .Sensor-temperature 3 - .Washer-sealing 3 - .Washer-sealing 4 - Gasket-fuel connector block 5 - Strainer-fuel filter 6 - O ring 6 - .O ring 7 - Screw - con block to head 8 - Injector & sensor assembly-diesel 9 - .O ring 10 - Clamp fuel injector 11 - Bolt 12 - Pad-insulation 13 - .O ring 13 - .O ring 14 - Connector assembly-fuel block 15 - .Washer-injector sealing Orders and Enquiries by Email to order@Allbrit.de ! Drawings are for reference purpose only. THE LISTING OR ILLUSTRATING OF AN ITEM DOES NOT GUARANTEE ITS AVAILABILIT Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by dorsetsmith on 6th Oct 2015 7:41pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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6th Oct 2015 7:30pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 964  
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Perfect, thanks for the feedback. Spares are always a couple days away. Mine is 200 MY somassume it would be a 10P motor? Used to drive a 300Tdi as my daily driver and I am now getting used to the Td5. Knew the 300 inside and out but was not sure what to get as service spares for this motor still building my parts store LOL.
Any thoughts as to driveability for a few days? Is it going to suddenly develop a massive leak? Am supposed to head out north of Montreal for a few days off roading and camping. Two hours each way to the trail head and back home. I really appreciate the speedy replies! 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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6th Oct 2015 7:32pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6645
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I had no luck with a rebuild kit, money wasted as the seals were just a teeny bit too small.
To replace the regulator assembly on a 2000 Td5 (10P engine) you need LR016319. Available as genuine, OEM or pattern. Gasket MSX000010 also needed but some assemblies come with it. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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6th Oct 2015 7:37pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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It's one of those LR things, you can go ages and the leak doesn't get any worse but you may start to get starting problems with a fuelling problem, if it's the pressure valve leaking then the pressure drops and it is harder for the pump to build up the initial pressure. Other problems may arise in that the spent fuel tracks down the cables to the starter motor and can start to erode the starter solonoid contacts but this does take time. Another little foible is that the spent fuel can also get in the bell housing and contaminate the clutch which manifests itself with clutch slip at higher revs, especially in damp conditions. It shows itself more when you are accelerating away from a junction and just as you get to the point you want to change from second to third you become aware of slippage, same with third to fourth and on long uphills.
These "byproducts" are shortlived when you have fixed the leak so don't think that you have a legacy of problems. |
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6th Oct 2015 7:47pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 964
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Thank you so much!
Cheers 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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6th Oct 2015 9:16pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 964
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Installed a new OEM seal kit and FPR into the existing housing. Also took the time to change the fuel filter since I had the system opened up. Still no drips since install. Keeping fingers crossed that it will last. Thanks for the assistance everyone.
Cheers 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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25th Oct 2015 1:41pm |
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| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
Righto - I have just done this job, and as per various instructions off the web I removed the o-ring to get at and clean the small gauze filter (from that drawing above: part number 5 - strainer fuel filter).
It came out easy enough, but what I found was the following, it's open at the end (both ends), is this right? Click image to enlarge Should the far end be sealed? |
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29th Oct 2015 4:29pm |
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