Home > Td5 > Fuel Pump Noise |
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airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 365 |
Fuel Pump noise
Ok, so I drove up to manchester to stay over at my sisters before heading to Kielder. On the way up we had to take a diversion as the motorway was at a standstill. I noticed at one point up a slight incline that I had my foot flat on the floor and could just reach 60 mph. There was no stuttering or misfiring just seemed low on power. I though I’d noticed it had a lack of power recently but just put that down to paranoia! After that it seem ok, power seemed ok, no misfires just cruised along to MCR. My first though was the MAF maybe The next morning I started it to move it so I could re load it, the fuel pump kicked in with screaming whaling sound. It’s always been amiable but just pump buzz. (I have attached a video of the noise) [youtube]v=IqPWsILQp-o[/youtube] https://youtu.be/IqPWsILQp-o It’s definitely the pump as you can hear it in the tank. I decided not to chance Kielder as we have our little one with us and didn’t fancy breaking down with no mobile signal! I chanced it back to Cardiff and other than the sound of the pump it seemed fine, no power loss, missfire etc. Now after some reading I’ve found out that it can be caused by a number of things not just a knackered fuel pump. This is where I hope the collective knowledge of the forum will help me put a plan together From reading around I found Injector washer seals. Some places say it can draw air in but other say no, it will just let diesel into the oil. I’d be happy to change them other than the cost of the side hammer removal tool at £120. That is way too steep for me. I’ve read the other methods for pulling them but I really don’t fancy breaking anything! Fuel Pressure regulator From what I’ve read the seals can perish and either leak diesel or let air into the system. I’ve had look for diesel and I can’t see any leaking but can’t check air. I see there are seal kits, parts and the whole unit available. Fuel filter I believe it can leak or be clogged. I’ve also seen something about the o ring for the air bleed connect perishing. Fuel pump Last but not least, either knackered or maybe clogged! Firstly is this pretty much all that can cause the problem or are there some other bits? Then I’m wondering what the best way to attack the problem, where do I start. I’d don’t mind doing bits to check as hopefully that will stop those areas happening at a later date. I was thinking about the injector washers first (Cheapest) but then I saw the price of the removal tool. Also can anybody help with part numbers for the bits I need, FPR (Not sure what to get, just the seal kit; the regulator or the whole block), Fuel filter, pump etc Thanks in advance[/code] 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver Last edited by airpusher on 24th Sep 2015 6:39am. Edited 1 time in total |
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5th Jul 2015 11:21am |
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Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 |
That fuel pump noise is the exact same sound that mine made while purging after a fuel filter change, sounds like air in the system causing cavitation in the pump.
So maybe it could be related to the filter, perhaps one of the seals leaking a little? |
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5th Jul 2015 5:07pm |
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Phatcat Member Since: 01 Nov 2013 Location: W yorks Posts: 98 |
Typical sign of knackered injector seals
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5th Jul 2015 6:23pm |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
The injector tool maybe expensive but there are many ways around them. I have used long Allen keys when I last did mine to pop them out, others have used a set of waterpump pliers split into the two halves and used the part that fitted the best. As long as you don't lever on the plastic part of the injector you'll be fine, it's not too bad a job to do, just be methodical and keep things fairly clean. Re-setting the injectors when re-fitting is another simple job and there's plenty of information around the t'internet.
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6th Jul 2015 11:40am |
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airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 365 |
Cheers JWL,
I was going to follow the discovery2 websites method obviously without the tool. Is it obvious where to leaver from when looking down at the injectors? The workshop manual States to use new bolts for all the internal ones removed, I can't find the part numbers to see the cost but does everybody do this? Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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7th Jul 2015 8:42pm |
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taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663 |
This like you say could be various options. All with the same symptoms. Worth just doing them one by one. Cheapest first.
After I had the same and went through the list it turned out to be the fuel filter housing had corroded around the connections as it's a perfect place for salt to sit, plus it gets very warm and very cold and very wet in the rain etc. It takes a lot of abuse. Best way to describe it is it looked like mice had nibbled all the way around where the copper washers sit behind all 4 connection points. It wasn't mice, but best way to visualise it. One of them had ever so slightly breached the sealing washer and was letting air in. I did however do the FPR and o-rings anyway as my FPR was leaking. I still suspect my pump isn't the healthiest. Reminds me, I need to do a fuel pressure test. Just not got around to it! I have the injector puller you can borrow. A couple of people on here have borrowed it so far! Or plenty of people have succeeded prying them out, but I've never done that! |
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8th Jul 2015 8:21am |
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taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663 |
I always do the injector cam bolts. I now have 3 sets of old ones, but they're cheap enough to play it safe .
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8th Jul 2015 8:22am |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
It's not such a bad idea to make sure you can get injector cam bolts as the last time I changed my injector washers and seals one snapped off when I was undoing them. That can be very interesting when it's your only means of transport, the local dealer is 15 miles away and you need to do the 14 mile round trip school run as well. I cobbled up a temporary replacement so I could get the trips out of the way and now I keep a couple of spares so I'm never caught out again
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8th Jul 2015 8:35am |
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airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 365 |
Cheers Guys.
I'll get the bolts too then so I can replace them. I'll have a look at the filter housing too then, give it a good clean and see if I can trace any leaks there. Thanks for the offer of the tool, if only you where closer mate. 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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8th Jul 2015 9:26am |
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taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663 |
It was couriered last couple times, so all I ask is you cover the sending of it and your welcome to it . I'm reasonably trusting of people on here .
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8th Jul 2015 10:18am |
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airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 365 |
It would make me feel more at ease doing it with the right tool.
I'll get the bits ordered and ready first, then be in touch. Many thanks 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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8th Jul 2015 2:20pm |
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airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 365 |
Guys,
To just remove the viscous fan for access to rotate the cam to help remove the injectors. Do I need both the tool or just the 36mm spanner? Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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13th Jul 2015 3:05pm |
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taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663 |
I doubt you'll undo the nut on it's own unless its been sat there lose for some time.
You'll need the tool to lock the pulley behind or make up something to do the same job . |
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13th Jul 2015 3:23pm |
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airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 365 |
Cheers taazzukcb
I kind of though that may be the case. I'll get both then and at least I have them for any other issues. Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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13th Jul 2015 3:56pm |
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