 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Lazer LED bar or multiple spots? |
 
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610   
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http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic36644.html?highlight=t24
Drop a couple of 'PMs.' If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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23rd Jun 2015 9:57am |
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| Penguin Member Since: 08 Dec 2014 Location: Tienen Posts: 247  
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I prefer the classic look. So no led bar 28/02 - Loss of a good friend...
In a time of chimpanzees, I was a penguin. |
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23rd Jun 2015 10:37am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
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T24 at £450 is a very good price
Since it has flood and beam LEDs it will have a good spread of light. Just remember not E mark so not legal for road use. One problem with one big light bar is that the main light is either on or off. With smaller lights wired up in pairs you can switch on different combinations and work out what is the best light for the current conditions you are driving in. With one big light bar when you switch it off and go back to headlights you will be driving 'blind' for a while as your eyes adjust to vastly different light levels. One of our vehicles has 3 pairs of Lightforce lights on, our departed black 110 had a T16 central roof mounted, plus 2 ST8 on outside edge of the roof with 2 ST4 bumper mounted but angled outwards slightly. The ST4 were used more often then the roof mounted lights as being angled out slighty gave a good spread of light very close to the vehicle. Yes I prefer the whiter light of the Lazer Lights compared to the traditional Lightforce lights Lazer lights removed from black 110, do I put them on our red 110?? Brendan |
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23rd Jun 2015 11:27am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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Rigid Industries now sell a limited range of e marked LEDs
http://www.rigidindustries.com/products/e-mark-certified-lights |
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23rd Jun 2015 12:01pm |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 25 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439 
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Don't know if this helps but I've just fitted a T-16 in place of a Chinese 42-LED fitting I had, that let water in.
I have to say that the T-16 throws further but with a narrower beam. On balance the Lazer's no better, just different, but about 5 x the price. Hopefully, it won't let water in though. And £420.00 is an astonishing price for a T-24. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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23rd Jun 2015 5:06pm |
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| tookaphotoof Member Since: 18 Mar 2013 Location: dordrecht Posts: 1279  
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Maybe something like this?
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/verlichting/v...t-bar.html |
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23rd Jun 2015 5:12pm |
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| Cold_n_Wet Member Since: 15 Oct 2012 Location: Bergen Posts: 244 
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We have a T-24 on the front of the Defender 110 mounted under a Front Runner roof rack.
The light pattern is amazing. I personally like the look, but the ST-4's are also very good lights. We had to return a set we sold to a customer and the aftersales service was second to none. HTH Glen "Rafiki" 2007 110 STW - Rolling rebuild. |
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23rd Jun 2015 6:14pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Is that a one off for you or something you can share? |
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24th Jun 2015 9:37am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
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There are other brands selling E marked LED light bars.
Please note that to be road legal you not only need to have lights E marked, wired up correctly and also total PBI number of 100 or less. Also please check specification of any light bar you are thinking of purchasing. Have just seen this for an IP rating on one light bar IP6K7 / IP6K9K Could be typo/uncertainty etc but there is a big difference between water ingress protection of 7 and one of 9K Brendan |
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24th Jun 2015 9:54am |
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| Gunbus Member Since: 16 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 46  
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Thanks for all the input folks
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I was through in the big smoke and decided to bite the bullet. I got the T24 for £420 and 2 x T2-R fittings for £120 a piece. My thoughts are to get a light bar rack (possible terrafirma?), mount the T24 in the center and mount each T2-R at the sides with them angled at around 40°. I may need to fabricate mounts for the T2-R's. I will check if I can get any more at these prices and post accordingly. I'll get pics next time I am out at the Defender. I understand that the are not E marked and are for off road use only. Once I work out my over-complicated system for wiring/switching I will post it on my mod thread. With regards to IP rating these fittings are IP67. Out of interest does anyone know what the criminal charge is for using non-Emarked fittings on the road? £100 fine? £100 fine + 3 points? Jail?  |
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25th Jun 2015 7:40am |
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| 1967jester Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 147
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Not sure but to add my twopenneth i'm running a pair of Lazer ST4' rack mounted on my D4, they are awesome, great spread & a nice "light", thinking of adding a couple of the Triple R's in the same size for greater distance.
Have seen the Rigid Industries stuff in action but am sold on the quality of Lazer |
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22nd Mar 2016 7:37pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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I know this is a massively old thread, but just to pick up on this point. IP ratings aren't "cumulative", so it's possible for something to be water jet proof but not immersion proof for instance. The first digit is the "solids" rating, so IP6x is dust tight (also, there's no K for that rating, it's 1-6 only AIUI). The second digit is the "liquids" rating, 1-6 are increasing degrees of splash/jet resistance with 6K being high pressure jets. 7 and 8 are immersion resistance, temporary up to 1m for 7, and continuous over 1m for 8 (but the specifics of depth etc. need to come from the person claiming the rating). The highest number available is IPx9K which is high pressure, high temperature jets. The pressure is much higher than 6K (10 bar at 3m for 6K, 100 bar at 0.1-0.15m for 9K) but the flow rate at 6K is much higher. So, something dust proof, capable of temporary immersion and powerful water jets would be IP67/IP66. Something dust proof, capable of temporary immersion and powerful, high pressure, high temperature water jets would be IP67/IP69K Something that's OK for continuous immersion but only light water jets (like it's got fragile seals) might by IP65/IP68. The "best" would be IP68/IP69K with a rating for the depth at which the IPx8 was valid. The first time I saw something with two IP ratings (an enclosure that was IP65/IP67) I got a bit confused, but then I worked out why. Technically it's quite difficult for something to reach the higher ratings, because if you seal something then it can build up quite a lot of pressure or vacuum inside. Either you build it as a vacuum vessel and design it to cope with that, or you build it to cope with whatever pressure you expect it to reach under most conditions (but air transport or leaving it in the sun will cause issues there), or you build in a vent. If you use the venting option (even if only slightly because it's difficult to completely seal cables for instance) then as the temperature cycles cause pressure cycles you'll gradually draw in moisture in the air. That then condenses in the lamp and you get misting or puddles. Warming will help temporarily but when it cools and contracts you need to get it to draw in dry (low absolute humidity) air because otherwise the next time the outside is cooler than the inside you'll get misting again. Often it's better to put a proper vent to get decent airflow through than it is to seal something badly. Also makes managing heat easier. |
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23rd Mar 2016 10:26am |
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