DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Starting and power problem

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Td5 > Starting and power problem

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

Starting and power problem

2005 TD5 Defender 90XS Station Wagon
During the last six months or so my Defender has had a problem which is becoming increasingly worse.
My repairers have had it for two weeks and are running out of ideas.
When starting from hot or cold the engine used to turn about 3/4 compressions and fire up.
Recently it's taken any time from 3/4 revolutions to 20/30 seconds, occasionally taking several attempts. While cranking, the engine appears to try to fire. The rearmost yellow relay under the driver’s seat ‘rattles’. (Has been replaced)
After a difficult start from cold the engine frequently has little power for the first minute or so, barely enough to move the vehicle.
On a few occasions the dash lights up but nothing happens at all when the key is turned to the ‘start’ position, a second or third attempt usually works.
Once running, the engine usually performs faultlessly until turned off.
On rare occasions it’s suffered a loss of power or total cut-out for a few seconds, usually at motorway speeds.

I’m desperate for a solution – any ideas please?
Have there been any recalls?

6th Oct 2010 5:35pm

T1G UP

Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey

on the td5 loom there are blue clips that hold parts of the loom together. a crap idea but they joints go and they get dodgy connections.

doe you get a moving speedo needle / temp whilst cranking?

obviously oil in loom is first stop, have the ecu out, check the red plug.

but the wire clip is what went on my old td5 90 and i ended up resoldering all the connections.

the td5 use to get loss of power alot and i guess the ecu goes limp mode.

6th Oct 2010 6:43pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5724

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Have you tried running an extra earth to relays and ecu? Normally from M6 bolt on side of trans box.

Andy

6th Oct 2010 7:56pm

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

T1G UP wrote:
on the td5 loom there are blue clips that hold parts of the loom together. a crap idea but they joints go and they get dodgy connections.

doe you get a moving speedo needle / temp whilst cranking?

obviously oil in loom is first stop, have the ecu out, check the red plug.

but the wire clip is what went on my old td5 90 and i ended up resoldering all the connections.

the td5 use to get loss of power alot and i guess the ecu goes limp mode.

No oil in the loom. I'll check the rest.
Thanks

landy andy wrote:
Have you tried running an extra earth to relays and ecu? Normally from M6 bolt on side of trans box.

Andy

You're the second person to suggest that. I'll give it a go.
Thanks.

6th Oct 2010 8:04pm

Porny
Site Sponsor

Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 809

Find somebody with diagnostic equipment and get them to check the MAF (mass air flow) sensor is working... and by working I mean look at the live data, not just fault codes.

If it has failed, poor starting is one problem, and lack of throttle response is another (along with a few other faults).

Failed MAF sensors are very common on Td5's

Ian

7th Oct 2010 10:37am

Grockle

Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green

crank position sensor ? Dak I mean Laurie

2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.

7th Oct 2010 11:20am

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

Grockle wrote:
crank position sensor ? Dak I mean Laurie

That did show a fault about three months ago.
Was replaced.

Last edited by Laurie on 21st Oct 2010 5:47pm. Edited 2 times in total

7th Oct 2010 11:34am

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

Still haven't found a solution.
Recent fuel consumption shows 24mpg rather than the regular 27mpg before the problems started.

What with the gearbox packing up earlier this year, I'm regretting not taking out the extended warranty.

21st Oct 2010 5:44pm

Naks

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

Oil in the ECU

Fuel pump

MAF Sensor

Injectors

Remove EGR, it may be all coked up.

Remove CAT

optional - remove middle silencer box

Start with the back at the fuel tank and work your way forward to the engine.

21st Oct 2010 6:53pm

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

I think I might have found it.
The car broke down the other day after pumping half a tank of fuel into the road.
The cause was the plastic drain plug in the fuel filter had broken. The head and seal were laying in the bottom of the guard. Maybe it had been leaking slightly for nearly a year.
The filter and plug were replaced and since then (only three days) I've had no more poor starting or power loss.
Time will tell......

7th Jan 2011 11:30pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum