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landyman1



Member Since: 11 Jul 2009
Location: Pembrokeshire,South Wales
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
wading preparation
Very Happy Question

Hi folks, had my utility 110 a year now.12,000 miles and no problems of any consequence, still not sure it's a proper landrover as still no leaks. Spent a little time offroad but nothing very serious yet with this vehicle.
So started bolting a few more bits onto it----mantec wheel carrier and plastic jobby air intake now been added.
Her indoors preferred the mantec for looks as opposed to safari and as it was cheaper too, decision made.
Not planning very deep wading with such a new vehicle but no point in not being prepared.

So, having carefully sealed the A I onto the wing with lashings of silicone as well as the supplied gasket, what else needs attention to be safe in two or three feet of water if that should ever crop up. Have found three breathers in the engine bay, is that the lot or are there more to extend? Anything else to protect? What's a sensible depth limit even with a well sealed air intake?

Appreciate some guidance from any of you with experience in this Bow down Bow down 1981 series 3 swb gone
1986 v8 110 station wagon current
2009 puma 110 xs utility station wagon latest addition
Post #41804 2nd Oct 2010 10:42pm
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KarlB



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 91

Australia 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
Water crossings are serious. Land Rovers are not boats. If the bottom of your raised air intake is at the level of the waters surface (~90 cm deep) then you passenger and driver seat boxes are under the water. Your electrics are then cactus. That is deep water, and you MAY be able to get through it for a shortish distance but you MUST NOT STOP. At that depth you should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, the raised air intake is not a snorkel as some call them. However they are useful to keep splashing etc. from getting in. The officially recommended max wading depth of 500 mm is just below the sills. At 600 mm your feet are starting to get wet and at 750 mm every thing in the back is getting wet. There are a few simple rules:

1. Always walk the crossing first to check depth, currents, obstacles, etc
2. Is there a shallower alternative crossing?
3. If in any doubt: don't do it (much better to get home feeling a bit of a coward than to not get home at all)
4. Plan your recovery before you enter into the water (what are the consequences when you do get stuck?)
5. Prepare your vehicle and contents (wading sheet, vulnerable valuables raised, etc).
6. Select an appropriate gear (you do not want to change gear mid crossing)
7. Proceed cautiously but with determination (this is how you should tackle every serious obstacle)
8. After the crossing, dry your brakes and check your vehicle for water ingress

If the water is 500 mm or less then you should not need a wading sheet. You can change gear, etc.

Be mindful that if you cause any damage to your vehicle by crossing water deeper than recommended maximum you will almost certainly not be covered by warranty nor insurance.

Interestingly, the official wading depth for Toyota Land Cruisers and Nissan Patrols (not sure on their marketing names in the UK) is 700 mm. But that is subject to extensive vehicle preparation. At that depth the radiator fan on a Toyota is hitting the water and bending into the radiator, and in the Nissan, some of the electrics are under the water. Their carpets are stuffed.

I will leave it to others to advise you on raised diff breathers and the like.

Cheers
KarlB


Last edited by KarlB on 3rd Oct 2010 9:32am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #41809 3rd Oct 2010 6:49am
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landyman1



Member Since: 11 Jul 2009
Location: Pembrokeshire,South Wales
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
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KarlB, many thanks for advice. have already seen on t.v. what happens if you go to deep without thinking,( lose control and back end floats). so 500mm it is but max. of 600mm if unavoidable for very brief time as far as I'm concerned.

cheers 1981 series 3 swb gone
1986 v8 110 station wagon current
2009 puma 110 xs utility station wagon latest addition
Post #41811 3rd Oct 2010 8:08am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Wading is a huge topic - with many issues - particularily in the later fleet.

As mentioned your electrics are vulnerable at many points.

I dont know what intake you have, but a safari snorkel - is just that - but only if you elect to seal all the other points along the intake ducting (there are at least 4 points from memory.

My view - my safari snorkel is there ONLY as an insurance premium. I havent ever raised (with the exception of the rear axle) any breather as if you stop when you are at the breather height - you have bigger troubles - so if they are at the centre of the bonet and you have a bow wave - the in bonnet water height is lower and thus you will be ok.

There is too much else to put on the list really - i addition to everything Karl states Mike
Post #41820 3rd Oct 2010 11:40am
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alantd



Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 1513

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Wellies (you'll get wet feet) and an air freshener (your carpets will stink for a month).

Wading blanket is a good idea as stated and if you really want your mantec air intake to protect against water ingress, you'll have to seal all the pipes back to the air box (and fill the drainage hole). I too have the mantec plastic jobby but it's really only there to protect against splashing and in case I drop my off side wheel into a hole whilst crossing.

As you say - aim to stick to 500mm with occasional exposure to temporarily deeper sections but don't stop. One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition
Post #42674 14th Oct 2010 9:05pm
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