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penguinsprogress



Member Since: 03 Jun 2014
Location: henley on thames
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Orkney Grey
Getting shifty
Hi,

Every car I've driven has a style of driving that the designers and engineers worked towards... however, I can't work out what is the accepted way to drive a 2.4 TDCi Defender on the road (apart from very slowly)... having tried all manner of combinations... do you use 1st to start off, or do you slip the clutch in 2nd? Do you shift early up to 4th (1500 revs) and then let the torque pull it up to speed... or do you spin it out in the gears (3000 revs) and change gear with an overspin to make the change smooth.

What is your experience and is there a Defender style? Very interested to know.

Very Happy
Post #405928 9th Mar 2015 11:23am
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Wild Card 90



Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Gerlingen
Posts: 1060

England 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Defender driving style starts when you climb in. Relax, enjoy the commanding view, and let the torque do the talking.
Short shift (shift at low revs) in the lower gears. Only use more revs (up to 2800 rpm) once up in 4th, 5th and 6th, and even then, only if you really have to!

Definitely get past 1st as early as possible. Bypassing it, only feels good on downhill starts. 1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW,
2012 2.2 90 SW,
2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma
Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs,
Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons
Post #405940 9th Mar 2015 11:59am
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
I sort of agree with you...

I used to drive a TD5 and I could jump in that and drive however I felt, fast or slow, long or short changes and return a consistent MPG of between 28-31.

The TDCi, as much as I love it, I struggle with more. I think this is mainly down to the fact that I have a vibration/rough spot around 1700 - 2000 rpm. There is a noticeable increase in noise/resonance within these RPM's and so I try to avoid them. This either means very short changes, or taking each gear to 3000rpm+ to avoid the next gear dropping below 2000rpm.

Even after a year (admittedly only 4000 miles as I have a company vehicle day to day) I struggle to just drive the vehicle without 'thinking' about it if that makes sense. I think this may also be contributing to my woefully low MPG of between 20-23. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #405964 9th Mar 2015 12:55pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

United Kingdom 
I always use 1st, the strain on 2nd pulling away is immense on the running gear and clutch.
I normally use 1st in any orientation full stop.
You only really need to over Rev pulling off up a steep ish incline to prevent the revs dropping off fast.

You should rarely ever need to go past 3k revs unless you are needing yo shift for a reason.
5th is best for most higher speed A roads bug 6th is useful when you've got open road ut no doubt you'll need to slip down one to bring the speed down.
If you have an Alive tune like mine does it will pull like a train.
Post #405995 9th Mar 2015 2:12pm
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NickH



Member Since: 01 Nov 2014
Location: Halifax
Posts: 204

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Rimini Red
I agree with custom90steve, if you havent got a remap particularly an Alive one , get one because it just makes it much more relaxing and easier/nicer to drive.

Thumbs Up 2003 Td5 90
2013 sport hse
2012 700 raptor quad
2012 siromer 4x4 tractor
Post #406117 9th Mar 2015 8:54pm
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Venomator



Member Since: 25 Aug 2014
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 2087

United Kingdom 
^ ^ ^
Much as I would like a tune jobby, there is little point for the current truck... Whistle

However, to answer the OP - my style could probably be termed relaxed... Mr. Green

Unlike Steve, I always use 2nd to pull away unless it is on an incline! 1st is far too short a gear for normal driving and I do not find any need for excess clutch slipping or undue strain on the drive train at all - in fact we were always told to ignore 1st in Forces training, unless it was a proper hill start... Thumbs Up

Gear changes will generally happen at around 2,500 and I don't think I have ever got near to 3000rpm... Shocked

Find your best approach by relaxing into your truck and driving it with sensitivity for your P&J... Wink
 Rog... Mr. Green
The GREEN One...


MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color]


Last edited by Venomator on 10th Mar 2015 7:06am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #406127 9th Mar 2015 9:29pm
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Simon27



Member Since: 30 Oct 2012
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 131

Scotland 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Tamar Blue
2nd gear is always fine if I'm not facing up hill. Starting in first means I have to rev right up to 3000 rpm to give enough time/momentum for a non-crunchy shift into 2nd.

All other gears seem easy either way. My driving instructor always taught me to accelerate with the gas pedal, not the gears, but in the Defender it suits shifting up quicker.
Post #406146 9th Mar 2015 10:19pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Post #406171 10th Mar 2015 5:42am
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Venomator



Member Since: 25 Aug 2014
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 2087

United Kingdom 
^ ^ ^
That says nothing about using 1st gear Eric... Whistle

But it does repeat my own conclusion... Mr. Green

And, no, I have not seen that article before, mine is just common sense good practice and respect for one's P&J... Thumbs Up
 Rog... Mr. Green
The GREEN One...


MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color]
Post #406175 10th Mar 2015 7:05am
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Wild Card 90



Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Gerlingen
Posts: 1060

England 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Interesting opinions here.
I drove to work this morning avoiding 1st gear. Its actually quite good! Often smoother than a first gear start.

But not always. To begin with I didnīt touch the accelerator, letting the anti-stall do the work. It is neccessary to slip the clutch a tad more than in 1st, and off we were with one cog change less to deal with. It didnīt work so well on a brisker start. The clutch bites, choking the revs, which donīt react to increased throttle, and the diesel knocks and chatters fighting to stay alive.
I shall give it a fair chance, and see how I get on. I can well imagine that an optimised tune, allowing more torque at low throttle opening, would make all the difference.

Wheelbase, equipment, fuel and passengers also influence how each of our vehicles drive. Some more compliant than others.

In these times of double clutch automatics, variable timing and compliant drivetrains, I really cherish driving a car that demands driver interaction to just get it moving Very Happy . 1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW,
2012 2.2 90 SW,
2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma
Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs,
Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons
Post #406198 10th Mar 2015 9:02am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
It's interesting how people do or don't use 1st gear. I've tried both but believe using 1st to get the wheels rolling is far more mechanically sympathetic to my vehicle than not. The only exception is if I'm on a downhill slope when starting and i may let it roll a little first before lifting the clutch in 2nd.

Instinctly, it feels right.
Post #406200 10th Mar 2015 9:12am
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