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Turbotcharged



Member Since: 03 Nov 2014
Location: Kernow
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 
Should Swivels look shiny or like in my pic ?
Hi all..noticed my front wheels had a patten of oil from the studs..no oil is pooling and that the drivers side swivel looks grubby and on inspection is rough and scored....the off side one is all shiny this one looks rough...is this normal am I paranoid ...going 450 miles on manday..should I take wifes car ?
Post #405313 7th Mar 2015 2:46pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2641

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
theres no pic...

I had problems from day 1 with swivels, went through about 7 different combos / fixs from land rover before they gave me a new axel...

(im guessing that was an extreme case) seals, the new ball, pins, new housing the lot
Post #405317 7th Mar 2015 3:00pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2641

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

Click image to enlarge


you may have a issue there... is the ball completely dry?
Post #405319 7th Mar 2015 3:01pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20408

United Kingdom 
Doesn't look right, the surface should be polished. (But can have a bit of dirt on it)
Looks like the seal, or oil is gone or most likely both.
I'd hazard a guess dirt has got in there too.
I don't think you should worry about your trip but get it looked at as soon as you can.
Post #405322 7th Mar 2015 3:10pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20408

United Kingdom 
Here is mine a year or so ago, here it is contaminated a bit with Dinitrol but it's more polished looking now.

Click image to enlarge
Post #405323 7th Mar 2015 3:13pm
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Merlin



Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

United Kingdom 
The latest LR ones are Teflon coated so they aren't shiny anymore. Having said that, they should have a decent surface of EP0 on them. When you renew them, sooner I would suggest rather than later judging by the picture, I would recommend new bearings top and bottom. These will need to be shimmed. There are some great threads on here and videos on who-tube. I did mine recently (too much Salisbury plain in the dust) and it's not that scarey, although I had excellent help.

Merlin
Post #405331 7th Mar 2015 3:45pm
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Turbotcharged



Member Since: 03 Nov 2014
Location: Kernow
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 
Likeomg wrote:

Click image to enlarge


you may have a issue there... is the ball completely dry?


yes ball dry as a bone...urgghhhh ..any ideas how long it takes to rebuild these things,,??? do not have the time space or patience myself...and should I be driving the thing...I do a lot of miles in it!
Post #405359 7th Mar 2015 6:00pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Merlin wrote:
The latest LR ones are Teflon coated so they aren't shiny anymore.


Do you know when that change was made?
Post #405445 7th Mar 2015 9:30pm
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 1006

Wales 
About 2000 off the top of my head
Post #405447 7th Mar 2015 9:31pm
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Turbotcharged



Member Since: 03 Nov 2014
Location: Kernow
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 
I think the seals are knackered.. Um..does this mean the diff is not lubricated?
Post #405458 7th Mar 2015 9:53pm
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 1006

Wales 
No, diff is in a separate compartment, separated by seals. Would be wise to change the oil in it though once the swivels are sorted.
Post #405556 8th Mar 2015 10:37am
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Turbotcharged



Member Since: 03 Nov 2014
Location: Kernow
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 
Thanks chaps will check the piggy bank for the bits and try and do it myself. I am reasonably able with spanners but will be first. Looks straight forward.. Any thing tips cheats I need to know?
Post #405565 8th Mar 2015 11:04am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2651

Scotland 
It's a fairly involved job, though nothing particularly difficult. Just lots of bits to undo. Some pointers:

- If your brake pipe bracket has been slotted you can free off the half-nut and lift the caliper away and hang it up in the radius arm, this avoids having to re-bleed the brakes.

- The bi-hex bolts holding the swivel ball to the axle will be F.T. and you can't get a socket on them due to the ball itself, so you need to use a really good fitting ring spanner and maybe a bit of pipe or a second spanner for leverage. I have a spanner with the open end cut off for this very purpose, over which I slide a jack handle.

- You'll need a fishing scale (spring balance) to set the preloads on the new swivel bearings. Get a decent selection of the different thickness of shims to enable you to set the correct preload.

Enjoy!
Post #405574 8th Mar 2015 11:40am
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Turbotcharged



Member Since: 03 Nov 2014
Location: Kernow
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 
Might need to research this preload malarkey
Post #405575 8th Mar 2015 11:44am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2651

Scotland 
Workshop manual will have the figures for your vehicle. Have a read through of this:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601

It's for a Disco but the Defender will be very similar, and the process will be about the same.
Post #405585 8th Mar 2015 12:22pm
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