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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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100% charged 12.7
75% 12.4 50% 12.2 25% 12.0 flat 11.9 roughly so guessing if everythings right and car starts well then you really wouldn't want to go below 12.2 split charging doesn't have to be expensive , durite 140a split charge relay is about 40 quid |
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2nd Mar 2015 12:16pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572  
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Hi Munch90,
This is more or less what I thought, I suppose the settings are designed for a deep cycle battery? Re the split charge, I know the relays are not too expensive, it's all the other bits and pieces to do it properly, new batteries and battery tray to fit inside the seat box etc. what I may do is put a spli charge relay in then run the cable to the rear to the temporary leisure battery in the back. Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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2nd Mar 2015 1:26pm |
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| Force64 Member Since: 02 Jan 2014 Location: Gatwick Posts: 196 
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I'm thinking of one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURITE-Ready-Mad...2ed581c63b Beware of cheaper ones that use lower ampage cable. Andy Defender Td5 XS90 |
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2nd Mar 2015 1:37pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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COUPLE OF SAFETY ISSUES WHEN DOING THAT 1: SECURE BATTERY ( strap it in ) 2: IN A PROPER BATTERY BOX ( cheap to buy ) 3: BATTERY BOX NEEDS VENTING TO OUTSIDE ( small vent hose normally like a bit of screen washer pipe , but needs access to outside of cabin ) |
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2nd Mar 2015 1:51pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Difficult to gauge as when a battery gets older it is it's capacitive ability that will reduce. In layman's terms an older battery may still indicate that it is fully charged but you will not be able to get as many engine cranks out of it in comparison to a new one. It is not the voltage level that purely determines how good a battery is or how low you can go to be able to still start the vehicle. Split charge is as stated the best way to go. To test the capacitive ability of a battery you normally use a tester that you reduce the resistance on across the terminals to place a load of three times the rating of the battery for a short predetermined time. A rule within the civilian marine industry I work in dictates irrespective of condition batteries are replaced after 5 years as the failure after this is likely to be instantaneous and not gradual. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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2nd Mar 2015 2:45pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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my 500amp battery carbon pile tester when testing a battery use a load of half cca or 3 times the ah for 15secs
quite agree about the age of batteries and capitity |
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2nd Mar 2015 3:26pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Sounds like a similar tester to the one I use. We have 12 batteries on the bridge I test annually. When testing in close succession the tester gets quite hot and it smells like I'm making toast.
Good excuse to go for a cuppa after testing three or four at a time to allow it to cool down a little.  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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2nd Mar 2015 3:43pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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8th Mar 2015 2:45am |
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| HansT Member Since: 25 Dec 2012 Location: Mariefred Posts: 173  
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This is just about the same setup that I have used and it works fine. /Hans  Click image to enlarge |
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8th Mar 2015 8:17pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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Hi Guys,
Got my fridge, an ARB 35L, (check out Flatdog for great prices and service) and the battery box, I now have to secure them in the back of the 110SW, I have removed the 2 rear seats, and intend to instal a reinforced ply sheet to bridge the wheel arch boxes and then fix tie downs on this, the ply sheet will be secured to the vehicle utilising the existing tie downs (I don't want to drill any holes in the vehicle if I can avoid it). I can vent the battery box out of one of the rear seat bolt holes. So much for the carpentry, now the electrics, anyone have any experience of the CETEK dc-dc charger?, expensive but it allows easy connection of a solar panel or can I just connect the solar charge regulator in parallel with the cable from the split charge relay? I suppose a large enough diode would prevent current flow back to the solar regulator. Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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9th Mar 2015 12:51pm |
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