 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear Cross Member Corrosion |
 
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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I know you shouldn't have to being only few years old etc etc
but I would get it done or do yourself properly rather then them just whack a pit of chassis black over it and be back to square one after a couple of years again |
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26th Feb 2015 10:53am |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378  
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This did cross my mind Munch90, would have to wait for a spell of good weather, as I have no covered area outdoors and the weather being very British at the moment
 , I do know someone who would do a professional job, maybe worth getting a quote off him in the meantime.
Cheers |
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26th Feb 2015 11:04am |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2651 
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my dealer won't cover the rear cross member under the 6 year...
and there normally very good with letting me get away with stuff they shouldn't (fairly heavily modified car) |
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26th Feb 2015 11:08am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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When picking my car up from the dealers I saw this and thought ouch!
 Click image to enlarge Anyway I think if you read the corrosion warranty it doesn't cover it . Something about inside out rusting not surface rust. |
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26th Feb 2015 11:16am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665
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If it's like that outside, the inside may be worse! I would get in and about it with Fertan to remove & neutralize the rust, then POR15, and lots of dinitrol on the inside. Then it'll be good for a few years
 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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26th Feb 2015 11:47am |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378
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Tiger, Think if I leave mine unchecked this is what mine would end up looking like, simply it ends up like this due to lack of preperation, paint cover at the factory, and you would think it would be covered, but hey ho. What have you had done to yours, as with yours and mine it does spoil the look of a great lucking truck. Will still give my dealer a call, as I'm sure I've read some people have had the work honoured. |
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26th Feb 2015 12:05pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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It's not mine
Mine was parked next to it. |
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26th Feb 2015 12:06pm |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378
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Thanks for the advise MartinK, will google Fertan and POR15. Cheers |
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26th Feb 2015 12:08pm |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378
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Beg your pardon,  |
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26th Feb 2015 12:13pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello schuee
I agree it's not as it should be and I think the advice so far is also correct. Try and fix it yourself, or get it fixed by someone who can. I think the current / all Defenders have been seriously let down by the decision at Land Rover to send them out the factory with little or no correctly designed or applied under body protection, it is after all a vehicle that is expected to have a harder life than most. It may be mechanically superior than most, and tougher than most, but when you really start to look at the level of finishing underneath it is very disappointing. Mine was 3 years old when purchased, had a genuine 6K on the clock, been garaged from new but the running gear in particular and in areas the chassis had light surface rust in numerous places. The pictures below show the rear cross member, with the Fuel Tank removed, on it 3 'exposed' sides. The rear cross member on some Defenders also appears to 'grey off' (develop a milky finish) this may be due to a poor preforming UV paint being used, i.e not as stable as it should be, but I don't know. I do see a lot that suffer in this way. IMO treat the internals of the cross member with a product like Dinitrol / Waxoyl remove or convert the surface rust, then repaint it. A 'superficial' blow over with Satin Black will probably not last. You will also see that the right angle mudflap brackets Land Rover fit IMO are rubbish, mine are now Stainless Steel. Also the NAS rear step (not Land Rover) is also poor, in terms of it's ability to hang on to its external finish, almost everyone I see over a few years old needs refinishing. Good Luck with your fix Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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26th Feb 2015 12:14pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Counting on warranty to solve this, you can give it a try. But that means that damage was already done in the first place.
For these things it is better to be proactive. After my truck was about 2 years old, my rear cross member paint looked also a bit dull, but no rust at all at that time. Then my dealer had to do some very minor corrective body work, and their body shop without asking me decided to spray the rear cross member in a good quality satin black paint to avoid further deterioration. The inside of the rear cross member has been Dinitrolled, the soft waxy type there. After 4 years now, this will be redone again this spring. In combination with all the bolts having been replaced by SS versions virtually from new, the rear of the truck remains mint. As said, things like this, better to be proactive. This picture is a few years old now, but the rear still looks the same. It shows you the satin black painted cross member, which looks quite natural due to absence of gloss. Eric Click image to enlarge You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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26th Feb 2015 12:16pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6315 
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sorry skip but that last photo as ingenious as it might be reminds me of that 80's TV series.......
the hammer house of horrors. good luck and happy 'defendering'. |
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26th Feb 2015 12:40pm |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378
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Thanks for all your advise everyone, and it does look like it will be more beneficial in the long run to sort it out myself, at least I know what will have been done, will order some Dinitrol aswell, as at the moment it is only showing a very slight sign of corrosion which some people would not even notice, though because I know its there so don't want to leave it any longer. Also thanks ericvv I agree the satin black looks stock, thanks X4SKP I did treat mine with waxoyl when new, though some areas underneath have some light surface rust now, so when the weather is on the up it will be a good time for me to sort it out again, when I waxoyled it last time my wife couldn't understand what I had been doing under the Defender at night for most of the week
 one way of keeping out of the way I suppose, which isn't a bad thing.
Cheers |
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26th Feb 2015 12:50pm |
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| Paul55 Member Since: 03 Feb 2009 Location: Somewhere in my head! Posts: 514 
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Guys are the cross members easy to take off? mine needs doing as its just going on the ends, like to take it off if poss for a thorough job.
Thanks in advance Cogito ergo sum |
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26th Feb 2015 12:54pm |
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