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Ken B

Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

Warn 9.5Ti rebuild and solenoid replacement or upgrade

Hi All,

I have just stripped down my Warn 9.5Ti as one of the solenoids has packed it in. The winch has been on the truck for some time so I decided a full overhaul wouldn't be a bad idea anyway. So now I need some guidance on Solenoid replacement, Should I go for a straight swap and just replace the dead solenoid/s or should I upgrade to the Albright solenoid that seems to get mentioned in a few places ?

If I do go for the upgrade I understand the Albright unit will need to be mounted externally does anyone have recommendations on this?

I am guessing I need to consider a few things:

- I need someone that will make up all the necessary cables as it will need to fit probably under the bonnet
- My existing cables will need to be altered as currently have both battery leads that run to winch and one now would go to the solenoid mounting location
- The remote (cabled) that currently operates the winch could be replaced with a dash mounted setup connected to the new solenoid

Any guidance tips and recommendations would be appreciated, also pointers towards anyone that can make up all the cables necessary without the vehicle would be great.

Cheers.. Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.

19th Feb 2015 2:01pm

Mike_B

Member Since: 23 Jan 2011
Location: Moray
Posts: 550

Albright solenoid.

The Warn ones are notoriously bad, as most winch solenoids are.
You'll have to make up some new cables, find somewhere suitable to mount it in your engine bay, then you can wire a remote switch or dash operated switches to the Albright.

Warn do a wireless switch, but the professionals use Lodar controllers. You have a receiver unit under the bonnet connected to the solenoid, then a pendant around your neck with buttons on it. Really good range and the transmitter pendant is tough.

19th Feb 2015 2:08pm

Anderzander

Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1000

Definitely Albright - I've just done it!

I've put mine under the bonnet on the opposite side to the power steering bottle.

I also bought a crimper and made my own cables up - which proved cheaper than paying to have them made.

I can upload some photos when I'm home if it would help ?

19th Feb 2015 4:15pm

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Are you sure an albright won't fit in your Warn?

It fits in my XD9000i

Click image to enlarge

I had to take a little alu away from the btm plate. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

19th Feb 2015 5:21pm

Ken B

Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

Hi Anderzander,

I would be interested in the crimping tool you bought as I thought they got pricey for larger gauge wires ? I had automatically dismissed the option but if it is reasonable would be happy to do the same as it is a tool I needed previously. So please I am keen to know what you bought and from where as well as the gauge of cable you used as I assume it needs to be pretty heavy.

A pick or two of your install would be great when you get a chance

Thanks

Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.

19th Feb 2015 5:25pm

Ken B

Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

roel wrote:
Are you sure an albright won't fit in your Warn?

It fits in my XD9000i

Click image to enlarge

I had to take a little alu away from the btm plate.

Not sure now that i have seen that, I had only search the web for the problem and come across a few short threads elsewhere that suggested it must be external but if i can squeeze in that would be a bonus. Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.

19th Feb 2015 5:29pm

Anderzander

Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1000

I've just realised the TI is the one with the bridge over the drum - the Albright would definitely fit in there.

I put mine out the way for a cleaner install on the standard lowlife winch set up - and to be a bit more out the way for wading. Though that said the Albright is waterproof.

I'll get some photos for you - but the sensible option would seem to fit it in the original place.

19th Feb 2015 6:11pm

Anderzander

Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1000

These were the crimps :

About £25 - and I used 35mm cable.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge[/quote]

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

19th Feb 2015 6:18pm

Ken B

Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

Cheers..

Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.

19th Feb 2015 6:24pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8051

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

i paid about £70 for my crimpers a few years back (upto 75mm2). 35mms2 is fine for std setup winch and likely use.

albright is a definite, also consider Goodwinch and Gigglepin do their own versions with bigger contactors in them

Albrights prefer to be mounted vertically. something we found from experience, dont ask me why as i dont know and dont understand why!

ideally mount the albright as close to the motor as you can so you have the shortest 3 lengths of wire to the motor.

for incab controls use a mom/off/mom switch - an electric window switch works well.

you can wire the albright +ve to on or off, it will work switched either way. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

19th Feb 2015 9:46pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5724

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

I brought solenoid, and cables made to length with correct ends and protective covers/boots all from David at Goodwinch.

Andy

Ps
I assume you've checked motor is ok? A motor for a 9.5Ti is very very exspensive (that's why I don't have one anymore)

20th Feb 2015 8:17am

Ken B

Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

OK so if i can beg for a little more advice please

..

I have finally got done on my rebuild now to wire up the new gear..

I have decided to do the job properly

so went and bought an Albright Solenoid and a Lodar controller to wire in

(don't tell the wife) I have found wiring guides for most parts and seem to have connected everything on the bench (for test purposes) but have 2 wires that come from the motor that were connected to the old solenoids/switch in some way but to be honest i am not sure how ?

**you can see them in the middle of the picture above the motor with the black plastic connector**

Can anyone help with which wire goes to where ???

Click image to enlarge Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.

4th Apr 2015 6:54am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8051

those two wires with the multi plug are for the termal cut out for the winch, they would of gone into the wiring that went into the bridge which in turn goes through the remote handset. just check where the old connector goes to.

to be fair you can do away with the whole lot. not sure if they work connected or disconnected though. if the former then just loop them together.

does the unit currently work as its wired now? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

4th Apr 2015 7:40pm

Ken B

Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

Hmm Slight problem, the old wiring seems to have been misplaced in my mess of garage so can't check the old setup in the bridge.

The current test bench wiring is not working... In that the Lodar works and the Albright clicks on both in and out function but nothing from the motor? The motor worked prior to cleaning up the rest of the winch (only just in but not out hence need for solenoid replacement).

I have tried looping the extra wires back on themselves and also a few other combinations, should the motor run regardless ???

Any ideas appreciated.. Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.

4th Apr 2015 8:06pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8051

if the albright clicks then it is working, so check earth to motor and feed to albright.

i am not sure on exact fitment of the temp sender wires. i believe they stop the remote working when the temp gets too hot, as you have taken that loop out of the wiring for the loda then loda will work the albrioght as you have stated.

i am guessing loda works the albright but the handheld remote doesnt. in which case thats due to maybe a 5 wire remote (5 pins in the end of it) and you have 3 wired. other two being the temp sender thing?

motor should work if albright is clicking.

whats the voltage on the ouput from the Albright when its clicked, 12v i guess? how long has the motor stood? may need a tap on the bushes! Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

4th Apr 2015 8:17pm

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