 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Tdci won't start |
 
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 699   
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I've have exactly that problem with my 2008 110 since I bought it a year or so ago. I have also tried changing batteries etc. I think that it a fault with the passive immobiliser. I haven't bothered looking into getting it fixed but just got used to occasionally having to lock and unlock. .. Sorry, not much help, but you're not alone. 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X
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12th Jan 2015 10:05pm |
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| Mogboy Member Since: 21 May 2013 Location: Brisbane Posts: 31  
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I had what sounds like the same problem a few years ago in my 2007 Puma. It was the engine immobilizer, which the dealers had great difficulty fixing properly. I asked them to deactivate the immobilizer feature completely as I didn't want it happening again especially in the desert or remote areas.
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13th Jan 2015 1:29am |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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Hi,
I know you have said about the relays under the seat, but try them again. I had this last week, left for work it started fine got to local fuel station put fuel in got back in, went to start.......click nothing! Tried 3 or 4 times sounded like starter had jammed. Pulled relays under seat and tweaked the pins tried again and away it went to my relief! Ian 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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13th Jan 2015 6:56am |
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| Phil VM2.5 Member Since: 28 Mar 2012 Location: Limelette Posts: 196  
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Hi,
I did have the same one month ago at my work. As you, no EKA code ! After some 10 try, it start again ... I have send a email to my dealer, no answer. I suppose that the immobilizer was confused with some radio frequency Of course, I will not be happy if I have again the problem certainly if far from home ! Philippe current : defender 110 sw 2.2 puma 2012 and 230.000km today and again my Range Rover VM2.5 engine from 1992 and 528.000km today. One ten 1988 to 1992 1987 BMW GS80 One Ten from 1984 to 1987 One Ten from 1983 to 1984 Serie 3 109 from 1980 to 1983 from 1974 Jeep CJ3B and CJ6 |
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13th Jan 2015 11:15am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443 
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I would suggest removing the main ignition and starter relays from under the seat and making sure that the contacts are good and tight. A loose contact on one or more pins is a very common problem. Generally a slight bend in the tang of the contact will tighten them up. It should be quite difficult to pull them out - feeling almost as though you're about to pull the socket off the bracket - and often they're sloppy as a sloppy thing.
If all is good, use a Nanocom or similar to to turn off the passive immobiliser and run for a while without it. Usually this will solve most starting issues. The vehicle is still immobilised if you lock it with the plip, it is just that we won't immobilise itself if you simply stop the engine and leave it (unlocked), so it is still inherently safe. If this does solve the problem, I suggest simply leaving passive immob off. No-one will know, and it doesn't really make the vehicle any easier to steal as long as you lockl it. Passive immob seems to cause a lot of problems on Pumas (more so than on TD5s). It is known that there are likely to be problems if you have a second set of keys (or rather the plip, since this contains the transponder) within range of the exciter coil on the column, and the range can be as great as the rear of a 110 (if I have to carry a spare set of keys, I put them in an old-fashioned metal tobacco tin whcih acts as a Faraday cage). Also, if you leave the key in the vehicle with with ignition off, whether or not it is in the column switch, it can confuse the immobiliser. |
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13th Jan 2015 1:57pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300  
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I'm sure the above is where you should be looking but after ready my ' bible' on 'how to be perplexed' you might also want to verify the crankcase sensor is operational as this is key to the start sequence.
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13th Jan 2015 2:08pm |
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22 
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Hi,
Thanks for all the replies so far, not had much time to look at it today but did tighten all the connectors up on the relays. They can be felt/heard clicking nicely when ignition is turned. I also gave the crank position sensor connector a spray of contact cleaner and a wiggle. Also took the steering wheel and plastics around the steering column off. Found the wires to the transceiver coil and gave all that a wiggle. Only slight progress is I have found A mysterious wire. Is from the anti theft module (green box!) the left hand grey multi plug, the far left wire in this loom (Orange and grey) is just hanging there with wire stripped at the end!? Trying to find a wIring diagram to see where this goes. Will also get hold of something to try turning the passive immobiliser off. Thanks again for help so far. I will keep you all posted on the result Matt |
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13th Jan 2015 5:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443
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The odd wire will be the aerial for the remote plip (lock/unlock function), and no, nobody knows why the end is stripped before you ask!
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13th Jan 2015 5:24pm |
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22
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Ok thank Blackwolf, that saves me some head scratching
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13th Jan 2015 5:38pm |
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 699
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If you were to lengthen that wire would you get better range on the 'plip' ? 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X
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14th Jan 2015 5:30pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
If you were to lengthen that wire would you get better range on the plip?
Yes, I've run mine up the A post and under the headlining to the B post area. Reception much improved.  I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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14th Jan 2015 7:57pm |
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| tcqf Member Since: 27 Jan 2013 Location: devon Posts: 11 
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Had the same problem with mine,tried all the usual things in the end took the advice of blackhorse and bought a nanocom and turned off the passive alarm job done the best money I ve spent including the landrover
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23rd Feb 2015 8:34pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443
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. ??? !   |
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23rd Feb 2015 8:58pm |
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| Borderrover Member Since: 03 Mar 2017 Location: Scotland Posts: 2 
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 I had the same issue after having a service done recently.
Engine would only turn over 2 time then stop. Occasionally start then stop again. After some searching on the net I started looking for the green lucas 10as alarm / immobiliser unit. Various post said it is behind the tacho cluster. Not on the tdci. I eventually got access through the lower driver side speaker. The 2 torx screws were a pain to get to but I managed. My problem was a bad connection on the grey plug. I then ended up with the hazrds flashing. This went away when I closed the driver door and turned on the ignition. Since cleaning the connections there have been no more issues. Its a pretty poor design for something that basically makes the car unusable. I also extended the arial cable at the same time and created another earth connection for thr green plug just in case this was at fault. The key fob now works from an impressive distance. The extended arial cable was put up the windscreen upright. Very simple amd very effective. landrover key fobs have always been anoying as you need to be right close to the car before it will work. No more. Happy days  t |
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3rd Mar 2017 12:55pm |
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